Recent comments in /f/BuyItForLife

mattrussell2319 OP t1_j28gec7 wrote

I’ve given my 15 year old Peugeot grinder a clean since it seemed a bit gummed up, and I learned a few things that I thought I’d share, since these have been recommended a few times in this sub.

First, Grindz pellets seemed to work well to free up the mechanism. I use these on my Kinu manual coffee grinder and asked Urnex if Grindz work for pepper grinders as well. They said it’s not formulated for that and they hadn’t tested it, but shouldn’t do any harm. I ground about 20 g of Grindz and then a bunch of pepper through it and discarded all that. You have to chop the Grindz in half since the clearance is less than a coffee grinder (also means large peppercorns don’t work, which I didn’t realise!).

Second, this is an earlier Peugeot model with a gravity-driven burr adjustment (the adjuster on the top just allows the burr to fall). So the mechanism needs to be free enough to allow the burr to drop (and even then you might need to knock it to get it to move). Also, if you adjust it to grind finer, you might need to first grind a bit to allow the burr to move into the higher position.

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hacknix t1_j28a2b8 wrote

Yes that's absolutely true. Then there is the trade-off with how easy they are to sharpen as well. Some of the higher quality steels may keep an edge fantastically well but sharpening them correctly may well need more skill or experience. Also I have found, sometimes cost and quality are not the same thing.

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Beautiful-Page3135 t1_j27wbto wrote

I've always been a fan of Ariat and Caterpillar, but Cat boots are usually lace up so for you I'd recommend Ariat. Work boots aren't BIFL by any means just because they get this shit beat out of them, but I homestead and my Ariats will generally last me a couple years. There's a reason they make up 70% of the footwear at your local Tractor Supply.

Def a "buy it in person" thing with any cowboy/engineer boots; even within the same company, different boots (in the way that a company will sell 3 nearly identical shoes but each has a different name and a slight design variation, not 3 boots that are actually the same boot) can have very different fits, so you'll want to try them on and make sure the toe box and heel fit right. You can do that with online stores but the added time for the returns/exchanges process is a hassle IMO.

Also, free LPT: when breaking in your new boots, don't use moleskins. Go buy the smallest size training pads (panty liners) you can find. They do the same thing, stick to your skin better, are perfectly shaped for your heel and the ball of your foot, and you can buy about 100 of them for the same price as 6 little squares of moleskin. Used this trick all the time in the army.

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Mergath t1_j27urw8 wrote

From the website:

>The Anorak is intended for temps between from 10F/-12C to 80F/27C.

​

I'm having trouble imagining what kind of use you'd get from a $600 wool ugly (sorry) hoodie that isn't really effective under ten degrees F. I suppose if you were in a survival situation where you needed something lightweight, maybe, but for everyday stuff, well, I could get several things to keep me warm in that temp range for a fraction of that price. I got an ankle-length 100% wool coat from the thrift store for $5.50 that kept me completely warm during the -30F weather last week while I hauled stuff out to the garage. It's vintage, at least fifty years old, and looks like the day it was made. Or you could get a Carhartt coat for in the neighborhood of $100 that would do the trick. 10F is cold, but it's not the kind of cold where you need expensive specialized gear, you know? Of course, I'm a Minnesotan, so my views on that may be skewed.

I suppose if the point is to prove to people that you can spend over $600 on what's essentially a heavy shirt, then yeah, go for it. But that's more buyitforlikes than buyitforlife.

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