Thanks for sharing! Very educational!

if it's easy to remove the outer sheathing, you could simply wrap membrane around, ok if it's over the housewrap.

But the most important part is the pressure treated plate. Since you do have that you are most likely good to go. Especially since you have such wide eaves (which is really great, props to you for doing that), which will help keep water away from the walls so probably no problem would ever occur.

This is incredible. I have just started planning my own shed, so this is a fabulous resource, and good motivation!

No, a whole house system can (and should) have floor thermostat elements for precisely this reason. Cycling an underfloor heating system on ambient air temperature alone with a naive (non PID) controller leads to these type of issues.

A stable underfloor heating system will have the floor at a constant temperature slightly above the desired ambient air temperature. Heat losses in the house lead to a steady state equilibrium. You can do that with an expensive controller and an ambient air sensor, or a cheap controller and a floor sensor. A cheap controller and an air sensor, like this case, will over and undershoot and be miserable. This can be moderated by high thermal mass systems but is not eliminated.

The problem here is how it’s being controlled, not any fundamental failure of underfloor heating.

Yes! And it was such a valuable learning experience for many different skills -- framing, shingling, doors and windows, all sorts of stuff. It really was like learning how to build a house in miniature. I feel so much more comfortable tackling something like finishing a basement.

> What people should realize too is the unpaid labor that went into this. Because you did it yourself, you saved money, but you spent your time and energy, which costs money elsewhere, so that is always a cost we all ignore.

Yes but OP also gained experience through the process and honed their skills. This is a benefit we all ignore.

Good work!

This is what this sub used to be all about. Great job!

Is this by chance in Iowa?

Absolute top shelf post and finished project. So good!

The roof framing photos are particularly helpful to me, reconsidering the amount of bracing for gable end overhang on a greenhouse we hoped to construct. TY

You can get 2 types. One is for heating the room. Generally the higher wattage cable. And one is for comfort for walking in tiles lower wattage cable. . Of course it will still heat room but is not meant to be the sole heating method. Also you usually get 2 thermostat sensors the one goes in the screed under the tile and you get it to operate off floor temperature. The display usually has another which operates off of ambient temperature of room and you can choose which one to use to switch on and off

https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/electric-underfloor-heating/underfloor-heating-mats

See this link here. Lower wattage is just for ancillary heating of floor

Wonderful job, and thank you for sharing! I especially appreciate the quality assurance team doing their inspections throughout the process. You are already paid up in taxes thanks to their excellent work.

That's why I had a shed company build my storage shed for me. It cost me just a tiny bit over $9k for a 12' by 16' with 7 foot walls. And they added a free shelf/work table across the back for giving them a good google review. Why do all the work myself and spend weeks planning, permitting, worrying about costs and materials, etc when I could have someone else do all that for me?

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Oh I can see the ridge vent! I had a shed builder do one for me, and he didn’t install any ventilation in it. Got hot as hell in the summer.

Use water-pipe underfloor heating. Set the boiler or manifold temp to something like 75 degrees, and have it constantly circulate the water.

Control house temp by opening some windows.

Cheapest option with items you can probably get easily is a couple 2x4s and a heavy hammer. Secure the boards on either side, and then hammer. Make sure the bottom of that fixture is secure and isn't moving (much) when you hammer.

You'll get it pretty close to original, though may risk knocking the bottoms out.

I was like yeah yeah I want to build one.

Then I realized I don't even have a truck.

I suppose that could be true if the "underfloor heating" OP is talking about is simply a floor warmer, and not the heat source for the home. A low-power electric warmer in conjunction with forced air might accomplish what you're describing.

However, the phrasing of this post certainly implied to me that this floor would be the way that home will be heated. If the heated floor is what warms the house, by nature it must be connected to a thermostat that measures the ambient room temperature. In that case it will cycle on and off based on the air temperature reaching a certain level.

Which brings us back to the issue I described. It's comfortable to be surrounded by still air at 22⁰C because it is a poor conductor of heat so it doesn't remove much heat from your skin. Pick up a rock that's 22⁰C and it will feel cool to touch. Hop in a bath that's 22⁰C and you'll be pretty unhappy. This principle means that a tile floor will always feel cool unless it's warmer than the air in the room.

So, I suppose I could add to my earlier comment: what OP is hoping for could be accomplished by decoupling the two goals: warm floor through one mechanism, warm air through another.

I'd totally crack and beer and say "mmm-hmmm" while looking at that shed.

Beautiful job. So much space for activities. Must of felt nice.

I don’t need to fix this asap but the sooner the better. And if me saying that “pulling it with a car slowly” was the first and best idea I had right off the bat I don’t really know if I’ll come up with better the grips and 2x4.

Yes! The bottom plates are pressure treated #2 pine, and there is still foam between the plates and the concrete.

Not sure if anyone commented, but your baseplate for the walls, it didnt look pressure treated. Was it? Shed looks amazing. 10x14 is perfect size for that yard. Great job.

I can understand their perspective, from lots of hope to cruel reality !

I think you'll need something fairly heavy duty, like a 4-6" bench vise rather than simple grips.

How soon do you need this fixed? If you've got more than a few days, I'd sit on it and think about it before going out and buying a bunch of tools unnecessarily :)

A bench vise is expensive if you don't have one already, there might be easier/cheaper ideas that take a bit longer to think of.

The underfloor heating - was this electric set in under the tile, or liquid from a boiler?

If it's from a boiler, sounds like something set up incorrectly to me.

If it's electric as others have suggested - should be set to some lower output level and to come off and on more frequently, so that the tiles at least stay warm. Is this underfloor the only source of heat in the room?