Recent comments in /f/DIY

snowe2010 t1_j17dq10 wrote

It’s plumb perfectly, because we built the foundation to within a sixteenth of an inch. Seeing as how OP didn’t bother to lift theirs at all, it most definitely will be more resistant to weather. In regards to cheaper materials? Sure, but you don’t need to overbuild a shed. I watched them install the entire thing, and yeah it’s just as strong as OPs. No clue why you think the roof wouldn’t hold as much weight. Rafters are pretty standard.

Also no clue why you mention Home Depot or Lowe’s in there. Tuff Shed isn’t owned by them and we didn’t go through HD.

Unless there’s something magical about OPs wood, it’s the same stuff as in any shed. Nice try though. Continue to recommend people wasting tens of thousands of dollars on something that should most definitely cost half that. OP built something strong, but wasted a lot of time and money and I guarantee it’s not outlasting our shed or any other prebuilt, especially with it sitting directly on that slab.

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nobleman415 t1_j17d06q wrote

Tuff shed (Home Depot) and Heartland sheds (Lowe’s) are made of vastly inferior wood and craftsmanship. OPs shed is sturdy AF and well built.

I know because I could not get one installed, no exterior egress and therefore neither company would allow workmen in due to insurance (assuming criminal or accidental issues). That meant I would just get the kit and build it myself, as the helper to my friend who is a general contractor.

I am literally installing it now. The roof would have been on today, but rafters were mis-cut.

While you may think your shed looks nice, bear in mind your labor KNOWS how to hide every mistake, especially if you are not out there measuring for yourself. I would wager that your shed is absolutely not plumb within 1/16ā€, which OPs is. it doesnt have the siding OP used, nor is the roof as strong. Unless you put on vapor barrier and ply yourself, you only have cheap ass OBX on the studs. The trim, lumber, OBX etc is mostly crap, which is why the kits are so cheap. I’m not even sure it is fit for burning. We found multiple issues with the boards being ā€˜off’ quite a bit, warped, etc. OPs shed will last decades… unless you reinforced your own - because the tuff shed folks didn’t - it will have issues in a few years.

I’m saying all of this assuming you were not checking the work with your own tape.

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RedVelvetAss t1_j1777xj wrote

I didn’t think I’d be reading about someone building a shed so late at night, but here I am. That shed is the tits my guy! Laying out the entire process so concisely the way you did makes me want to tear down my shit old shed and start a new.

You have to post about what you do to the inside, I’m too vested to have this cliffhanger.

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amberita70 t1_j1739ou wrote

Lol I have this type of heating and have opened the door when it's that cold out. I finally figured out the best setting for the thermostat so don't have to do it that much anymore. Mine is run in cement so you get the residual heat still coming from the cement when after the heat shuts off.

Before it stays cold all day then it gets way to hot by afternoon.

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JohnVerSteeg OP t1_j16v1t8 wrote

Reply to comment by rpgarry in I built a shed this summer by JohnVerSteeg

It’s crazy how even the small stuff adds up, that’s one of the reasons I wanted to keep track of all the purchases. Here’s everything from the caulk category:

2 tubes of ā€œbig stretchā€ caulk which were used in the installation of the man door and windows for $18

1 tube of APOC roofing cement for $11

5 tubes of OSI Quad Max for all the seams between the siding panels, $62

5 tubes of Lexel for in and around all the trim pieces, $64

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