Recent comments in /f/DIY

8bitpandaking OP t1_j18rudh wrote

Thank you very much! I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the clear instructions. This might be the best way to go about it. I was considering that I’d have to buy some expensive clamps l/vices and wood and hope that it’d work over time but you idea might be the best way to go about it.

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Pyrostones OP t1_j18p9e2 wrote

yes, that's my problem with blu-tack. Also, I feel like scotch tape evolved to be super weak nowadays. I remember trying to tape just some basic posters when I was a kid, and another one not so long ago : the latter didn't stay put... and the ones from my childhood are still on my bedroom's wall.

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Tribaltech777 t1_j18nye9 wrote

Mannn incredible work. I wish I was even 1/1000th as handy as you are. This makes me wanna cry thinking how inept I am with handy/DIY work. And how little time I have for such project which is another huge factor in my life.

On that note, how do you find the time and patience for such an involved project??? Is this your full time job? Where did you learn the skills to do all this??

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AffectionateJump7896 t1_j18jnz1 wrote

For electric underfloor heating it does indeed tend to be a sensor in the floor, as the electric underfloor heating is about heating the floor for that nice feel on the feet. For wet underfloor heating I've more commonly see an air temperature thermostat - after all it's probably the main source of heating and the objective is to get the air temperature right. Some do have both air and floor sensors.

The answer here, OP, is to insulate the floor. What you're describing is classic retrofitted UFH, with inadequate insulation. The room gets nice and warm, the heating turns off, and the floor cools down fast. When the floor is insulated, the floor loses its heat to the air, so only if the air is too cool will the floor be too cool, and in that case, the floor will switch back on.

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Minomol t1_j18j63e wrote

Hey OP, first of all congrats, this is an inspirational post, and most likely a post that will provide me and other a lot of help in the future.

Quick question - how is the heat insulation and retention in a shed like this? Not sure where you live, but I would be curious if this kind of shed would be "livable" with 0°C / 32°F outside temperature, with a portable (not too large) electric heater?

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agate_ t1_j18ipud wrote

Don't use your car. Don't pull, push. The brick wall behind it is an asset.

Cut a board slightly longer than the distance from the metal pillar to the brick wall of the house behind it. Wedge the wood between the pillar and the wall at the same height the car hit it, and tap it with a hammer. As it gets closer to horizontal it'll push the pillar outward. Go a little past straight, since the beam will spring back a little when you pop the board out.

You'll never get it quite straight, but this is an easy way to get it close enough that nobody will notice, without risk of damage to the house or your car.

Then go to the home improvement store and buy a new gutter downspout, there's no way to fix that nicely.

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