Always follow the instructions and heed the warnings on the container, the manufacturer’s website, and the safety documentation for the product. If you read the tube, the safety documentation, or the Leech Products website for F26, you’ll realize you have 2 problems.

Although F26 is VOC compliant, that doesn’t mean F26 isn’t harmful or dangerous. The fumes released while F26 cures is flammable. The time to cure depends on temperature. The amount of VOCs present during cure time depends on ventilation. The safety documentation states that both ventilation and removing ignition sources is required.

Many construction adhesives react with foam board and tub surrounds. Leech Products safety information has a bold warning that F26 will attack polystyrene foam and tub enclosures. Check the last line in Working Surfaces. I bet that warning is on the tube too.

Use an adhesive for foam board like Leech Products F13 or Loctite PL 300. Using the wrong construction adhesive for foam board will often result not only in the foam board separating from structure but the foam board also ending up in smaller pieces requiring you to recut and reapply more foam board.

I had been looking at a Forney MIG welder for about $300 but yeah that Harbour Freight is hard to beat. You have and use that exact machine?

From where the water should be coming out.

Added clarification to the post

How does it leak? My shower head drips from the ball joint about once per second when taking a shower. I don't even worry about it, since there's a bunch of water flying around already :)

Leaking from where? Where the water is supposed to come out? Or where the base is screwed in? Might just need some thread tape.

Ah ok! Didn't even know they sell that

Thanks - I went the lazy DIY mans route. That item I bought I linked in the original post is an all in one deal. It's 12' and has a snap in fitting with the red bushing already attached at the end. All I should have to do is connect it to the boxes and hang it.

I can't get a fan down there

I was finished gluing right about 24 hours ago. I left the door open for a few hours and have it cracked now.

Before turning on any heat source id turn a fan on and vent the area. That shit has acetone and toluene in it, not great to be breathing in, or igniting.

Seriously. This is meticulous. Imagine if they built an actual house. It would be petabytes of documentation and info lol

Until they’re not. How long is a piece of rope

If it is your first time working with armoured cable, don't forget to buy the matching red plastic bushings to protect the wire along with cable clamps/box connectors that can accept MC/AC90 wire

This is such a gem of a post. This is such a lovingly-crafted piece through and through, from the actual structure, to the photo gallery itself.

Thank you so much for sharing this with all of us. I'm super inspired by what you've done.

For the wiring, yes. That is correct.

If you are showing a ground on the existing outlet with your tester, it just gets its ground from the box. It isn't necessary, but it would be more clear to the next person if you connected a short pigtail ground wire from the box to the current outlet's ground screw.

Stud wall? I've seen people use neodymium magnets to find screw/nail heads so maybe that would have enough strength to hold up tinsel?

I believe you understood it correctly. So for wiring then with MC its:

1. New outlet hot to existing hot
2. New outlet neutral to existing neutral
3. New outlet ground to existing outlet box

That would be to code and no issues? If I have it popped open already and the wire on hand should I bother wiring the existing outlet to ground or is it just irrelevant?

If I understand correctly, and the new wire is to run out of the existing metal box, to another outlet "downstream", you would just connect the new green ground wire to the box since the box is grounded and the existing outlet picks up the ground via its attachment to the box.

Thanks!

And the concrete slab is $1k-$2k at most, would still be cheaper even if you did it as well.

Seriously. I paid about half of this for a prebuilt shed that was built to order, and has most of the same specs. Biggest difference is mine isn’t on a concrete slab, but I can deal with the step up into it.

(1) I have one solitary rafter tie in the middle of the shed right now. My intention is to build out a loft at 7.5' across the body of most of shed, and I'm hoping that the "joists" of the loft will provide some of the structure that would normally be provided by rafter ties or collar ties. So far that one board is a champ, though. I didn't feel the budge with my weight at any point.

(2) The 5/8 OSB on the roof provides a lot of strength through tension as well, it's screwed down into both the rafters and the blocking. I worked a lot while sitting and standing on the roof, and didn't feel any movement when putting weight on the eaves. I've never done anything like this before, so I'm not sure if there are better ways, but I've also seen people put the last regular rafter offset from the wall and then have the blocking out to the fly rafter cross over the wall, like this:

https://images.app.goo.gl/oJ2vw4sG1f5tKc3w5

In my head that seems like it would be stronger, especially for distributed loads like snow, but I believe that would not be an issue for an overhang this small.

It cost $35.09.

Good point -- I looked up that exact model on amazon and it's 179.99. I had no idea they were less than $200.

if you do wrap membrane around, be sure that it extends below the floor, wrapping the outside of the osb and your foundation. More than 2 inches would be ideal, even if that means digging down a little.

Again though, the lack of membrane might not impact your shed's lifespan much, just that it's "supposed to be done" due to water splashing and wicking up. Your choice of exterior sheathing looks like splashing wouldn't be an issue anyway.

Incredible! Your shed is better than my house. Thanks so much for posting the detailed pictures and captions, what a great resource.

I’m an aspiring DIYer. 2 questions

(1) it looked like you did not use rafter ties or collar ties. This seems to imply all roof rigidity comes from the ridge clips and hurricane clips at top plate. Is that correct? I would be worried about that but given you were on the roof it seems strong.

(2) any strength in the gable overhang (beautiful btw) seems to come from the end-grain nailed blocking, unless it’s stiffness comes from somewhere else. Is that safe / within code? Are there other ways to do that?

Thank you so much for taking the time to share your project!