We don’t have drapes on these windows.

Will do. Those windows are usually used as whiteboards for drawing, for targets for nerf darts and all kinds of other things so they may just need cleaned. I think it’s strange though that the condensation is almost exactly in the middle and only on one of three matching windows.

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I would too and it would have nagged me until the day I sold the house and moved. Then occasionally my asshole brain would remind me how I fucked up that drip edge and took the lazy way out.

What about the spot in front of the door? It’s like an inch, do they make it that big?

I prefer base shoe moulding

Quarter round

Update: I had someone accompany me outside to test the fumes out with a bic lighter around 1pm. Figured I'd go ahead and test worst case scenario, either I'd be fine or suddenly it wouldn't be my problem anymore.

So all went fine there. I turned on the light and shut the door 5 hours ago and been fine since.

It's currently 17 degrees Fahrenheit outside the well house and 54 degrees inside of it.

You may just need to clean your window better. Try cleaning it thoroughly first.

Are the drapes closed? My guess your dewpoint is prime

Drawing pins on a white section of the wall or ceiling.

When it's time to go just rub a bit of toothpaste into the tiny hole to make it disappear.

Thanks you again! This is the method I decided to go with. A bit of rotted wood feel from the top when it’s connected but nothing came loose so I’ll call it a win. I’m going to leave the board there for a chunk of time and then pop it out.

It’s on the inside, my side, of the window, not between the panes.

If the condensation is between the panes you are correct that the seal is shot. You can try to mimic the seal by using that plastic shrink wrap for windows…I think you use a hair dryer to ‘shrink’.

https://imgur.com/a/Wb1Sfwx for pictures.

Very cool. I mean warm😀

That all makes sense and very interesting about the fly rafter cantilever. The more you know. Appreciate your thorough answers and sharing. I hope you are an instructor of some sort for a living. You’d be great.

Probably the cartridge, you should be aware there is a "cartridge puller" tool and attempting the repair without it can cause more damage. Maybe just call a plumber.

Thanks, That helps. I think this should be a lot more straightforward than I originally thought.

I knew I could wire the new outlet to ground in the existing box through the green wire and have a solid ground. I just didn’t know if there were any reasons not to. I couldn’t think of any.

Also since that current outlet already has a ground without a ground wire, I was wondering if I should wire it up while I had it open. I’m going to.

I have the ground screws, some green wiring and the green ground twist connectors.

Thanks for confirming I was on the right path. It’s been awhile since I’ve touched electric, and I know that just because it works and tests right doesn’t always mean it is right.

Ultimately I think radiant floor heating is the most comfortable type of heating you can have. No cold spots, no blowing wind from forced air, humidity remains higher, dust is lower, there is even vertical temp distribution from floor to ceiling.

It just has to be designed correctly with the insulation of the house taken into consideration.

The outlet has a ground connector in your first picture, the bottom right.

That should be connected to the new ground (green) wire in the flex whip. You can wire nut all 3 together and zip a screw into the conduit box for even more protection, being the conduit as a pathway to ground to your panel.

True, flex conduit should not be used as a path for ground, hence why there's a ground wire included in the whip.

How old is the shower? Cartridges don't last forever but can be replaced in a few minutes. Check the make and model of your shower valve. Moen for example gives a ten year warranty on their cartridge. Just contact customer service and they'll send you a new one free of charge.

This is why i didnt recommend radiant floor heating in my parents new construction build.

As others have said, could be the valve cartridge, or it could be the remaining water in the pipe between the shower head and the valve draining out after use. In a normal bath/shower combo, that water drains immediately out the bath spout once the water is turned off. Just thought I'd add this since I hadn't seen it suggested yet.