While I'm NOT suggesting you DIY it.. But as a guy who did some stained glass work 50 years ago as a hobby, side income... It really isn't all THAT hard. Put word out (craigslist?) looking for someone who has done stained glass work. (And see some of their work, don't just take their word that they can do it!) Or just find a repair shop that does them. As others have said, nice door/entryway. It deserves to get fixed, not swapped out for some ugly door/window.

Hmmm this might be the best option. I was trying to avoid quarter round, but it looks like it may be necessary, even without the gaps. Do I put quarter round on the casing too or just the threshold and base?

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Are you sure you've got the voltmeter set on AC and not DC?

This is an excellent solution to this problem. Better than what I had in mind.

I would leave the plank is and make a trim strip that lays over top of the existing floor, just wide enough to cover the edge of the strip - maybe 1/2" wider than the gap.

You need quarter round against all the base as well as the door. Now of course typical Quarter round isn't wide enough so you have to be creative with a build out at the door so the quarter round goes straight thru and covers the gap. What you need here us an oscillating tool, table saw and an air nailer and a tube of painters caulk.

The trick here is building out from the door thresh hold even with the base. A couple of ways of doing it.

You can rip a piece of whatever the width from door threshhold from base to base and carve it around the angled casing or cut the casing with the oscillating tool and slide the buildout under. nail that down then run the quarter round thru.

Sorry if I make no sense. I'm a doer not a teacher. I look at your problem and in my head with my tools it's an easy fix.

Beautiful piece, I feel like you gotta get a pro in there and get it repaired in a manner fitting the overall quality.

Wood stains are difficult to match. Different species absorb stain differently.

The planks are 12’ long. Would I went to replace the whole plank or can I get away with just the bad bit?

I like the threshold idea. And it looks like shoe mounding might be the best bet, the floor is pretty wavy so there will likely be a gap anyways.

In SF people will come and do the work on site, nice door. get some quotes!

I have limited experience, but depending on the fixture there can be (note can be) a smaller fuse inside the motor that could interrupt the flow. Might find a part number and see if there's a manual running around the internet.

Was it completely sanded to begin with?Sanded between coats with what grit? #400 would be plenty What is the wood species? Maple?

Would the motor being bad explain the lack of voltage at the switch though ? Like it’s shorting in the motor or something ? It is very old fixture.

The whole window is going to have to be removed and will need to be repaired at a reputable stained glass shop. Generally, each of those pieces in the door is installed using what is known as either lead or brass “came”. It looks like an I-beam or picture an “H” on its side so that the individual pieces of glass can slide into both sides and then the joints are soldered.

Wont be a cheap fix, I’m afraid.

Sounds like the motor has gone bad, at least. Probably needs to be replaced, depending on the age of the house and fixture.

It’s gone maybe a shade darker, than the natural colour. The stain is supposed to be in walnut and it just looks like an oak colour. The brand is bondall monocel.

I would try Google maps to see if there are any glass repair places near you. You could show them a photo and get a quote.

What do you mean didn't work? I used they same method mine with great results. Also used a varnish + stain combo. What brand was yours? Ill try and find the one I used and edit this.

If you have a some kind of foil or other backing thats between the foam and the F26, you might be okay. If you put the adhesive directly on the foam, the foam board may come loose and fall down. I don’t what the timeframe is for that to happen.

I worked for Lowes years ago. Lowes employees must pass training and testing for their department to be assigned to that department. The employees in paint, plumbing, and lumber would be required to know the adhesives and coatings that can be used on foam board and similar products like tub surrounds. The problem comes when employees from other departments help you. Those other employee may not be required to know about adhesives and coatings. I wouldn’t be surprised if an employee from millworks or hardware was helping you and said you could use construction adhesive on foam board. They are technically correct, but employee might not know that there are different construction adhesives for different applications. I worked in Hardware, Tools, and Millworks. I was never required to know about the various adhesives. The way I learned about PL300 was when Lowes sent me to Pella to learn about sealing around Pella windows. Pella showed us multiple methods including a combination of foam board and PL 300.

This video explains the most common adhesives and sealants used in home construction: https://youtu.be/wZhGA-zrN_U

Yeah, whenever the water heater conks out we're going to do a whole house filtration and softening thing but just haven't wanted to go there yet.

Shoe moulding along the base moulding (since no more carpet) and a threshold in front of the door (you can rip a 1x2 or 1x3 with 22 degree bevel... or buy a door threshold and rip in half, flush to the bottom under door). I would stain/finish to match the wood and not paint it.

You can either use construction adhesive under the threshold, along with finish nails (set and putty the holes) or drill holes for recessed screw and glue a plug over, sand, finish.

Sry if too much suggested. I did this to a room that I removed carpet and the doorway was a bit higher (previous owner chiseled out the threshold. Nice oak hardwood flooring under carpet was the reward..but had to have pro finisher for floors...) Oh, if you do shoe all around, get primed-jointed pine, and paint before installing. Then its just putty nail holes, caulk, and touch up.

Get a water softener.

If this were my door I would make a custom piece of fir that would fill the gap and blend in with the rest of the floor.