4 wires just connected to two switches? Then it gets power from the fixture, not at the switch box

So behind the switch there is 2 incoming sets of wire, the one that goes to the lights, and the one that goes to the heater and fan. No breakers are flipped at all. Is there a way to follow the wire with no power back to the breaker ? (To check for a bad breaker possibly) or could I cap off the other set and use the wires from the lights to power everything if I replace the unit ?

If it is set on AC, I agree with other posts about something upstream like a tripped breaker. There should be 120V at the switch.

I ask because I often go between testing AC and DC and sometimes forget that I have it set to DC when testing and AC circuit, and vice versa. That low 0.3V is often what reminds me to change it.

Yes

You should have power at the switch at least, no matter whether the device is broken or not.

This leads me to believe the problem is upstream of the switch. If your switch doesn't have a neutral (only hot in, switched hot out) it likely gets power from the fan's electrical box.

Since you said the light fixture still works (combined in the fan?) your problem likely is located behind the fan or wherever it gets its power from.

Could be a loose wire nut, or a shorted/melted connection within the fixture. Take it down and inspect all connections.

Since you said the fan doesn't work even when connected to working power, that means it's definitely gone

Need to trace back and find where there is 120v and then troubleshoot from there out.

It could be a switch, the unit itself, or even a bad breaker if the heater is high load and the house is older breakers do go bad.

You need both a switch and a fan motor.

• You are asking how to "get started" on a project.
• You are asking what is the best method or approach to a project.
• You are asking whether or not you should do a project.
• You are asking for advice on what project you should make ("what can I make within my budget?")
• If you have a project in mind, please do some basic research on the matter, come up with your plan, then you can ask about a specific aspect of the project.

We want you to get the help you're looking for. If you have any of these questions, some places to get help are:

• The Getting Started thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.
• You may also try other subreddits - /r/homeimprovement, /r/woodworking, /r/electronics or /r/findareddit to help you find a subreddit applicable to your question.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

Yes, DEhumidify, don’t make it more humid.

Might be worth looking into infrared heaters. They’re renter friendly, completely healthy, easy to install. and instead of heating up the air it heats up matter (like furniture, humans..) and then those give off the warmth into the air as well.

True, but with forced air or electric heat, you're also drying the air. Running a small humidifier on a low setting can make a huge difference in perceived warmth while the relative humidity is still quite low.

Most wisdom is to have a dehumidifier, not a humidifier, to feel warmer in the cold. Reducing humidity also helps reduce mould. I've certainly found it to feel warmer since getting one, plus they inherently put out a little heat in the process of working.

It’s my understanding that heating becomes less efficient when you exceed humidity levels of ~60%. In those conditions you are also likely to encounter black mould due to the moisture condensing on the coldest surfaces which would likely be the walls or ceiling since the windows have been shrink wrapped.

Heat yourself, not your space.

Not much you can do without moving if it's a rental.

Wear warmer clothing + Buy a humidifier. You would be amazed at how effective it can be to raise the humidity in a room/house rather than raise the temperature.

If it is a bathroom fan with a heater, check to see if there is a breaker for it that may have tripped? These can draw a lot of power and often have a dedicated breaker.

I bet you have only electric heat strips. They cost a insane amount to run

Some older homes don’t have insulation in the walls. They didn’t think of doing it back then because energy was relatively super dirt cheap. Without insulation in the walls, there’s not much to do as a renter. Whatever R Value you get out of the interior insulation methods you’ve been using won’t compare to the effectiveness of sealing all gaps and having insulation in the walls. Never work on your landlords place for free.

No real suggestions, sorry, I live in a cold house too. I invested in some comfy slippers and a warm baggy hoodie and they make a world of difference for me.

Double sided mounting tape

Your switch should be reading 120, coming in when it is off. If it's not, then you have an issue prior to the switch.
Without seeing how your switch box is set up, it would be hard to tell you where and how to proceed right. It depends on where the power is feeding first.
If you can post some pics, that would help too.

Find a stain glass person who specializes it repair. My mom had a similar issue once and found it was most cost effective

Wim hof method

Time to move......You'll never be comfortable in a home whose exterior walls are not insulated. Well maybe if it's between 63 and 80 degrees.

The only real answer is finding a place that can do a proper stained glass repair. That is one substantial entryway setup.

I suppose you could get away with a clear panel, but it would still look a bit out of place.

You’ll never get a close enough match with a new door (AND new matching glass) so don’t even try.

> Good advise!