They only need to fix that one section. I had it done and it wasn't that much. Much less expensive than replacing the door.

Sounds like an expensive project! I’ve attempted several floor leveling projects in our 110 year old clapboard house with its floors being angled this way and that due to joist sagging etc., and have had the most success combining a couple of approaches. First I would definitely remove the new floor (d’oh!). Then cut out the subfloor in the worst affected areas, i.e. the most saggy. Sister in new joists with lots of glue and screws but make the new joists as level as possible, that way you can avoid fiddling too much with shims, etc., although getting the new subfloor even with the old does take some finagling. There will almost certainly be areas where sistering is not possible due to other infrastructure in the way, so it’s up to you how involved you want to get with that (moving electric, plumbing, ducts, etc.). Sometimes you can sandwich plywood on either side of an existing joist to strengthen it and that takes up less space and works pretty well too. The main idea here is to add strength to the joists and also level them a little bit.

Once that’s done, and the new subfloor has been added, you can use leveling compound to level the floor out the rest of the way, and you won’t need to worry as much about the added weight from the leveling compound. I’ve only done this in areas where the floor was going to be tile or carpet although I believe this will also work with engineered wood flooring (but not regular hardwood).

Good luck! This is a big disruptive job that will take a while, just be careful and don’t fall through the floor.

I have an old house with uneven floors due to sagging joists and have talked through a few options, but eventually just put on flooring that made the uneven spots less obvious. Getting shims in all the right places and at the right heights is gonna be really difficult if not impossible. It could end up worse or more likely just squishy feeling which will cause problems with whatever flooring you use. If a structural engineer said nothing is dangerous that's good. Leveling compound is an option, but can also be tricky to do right and make sure you understand how much it weighs before you pour it and some versions are made to weigh less. I kinda came to the conclusion that the only way I would want to fix this is pulling everything out and sistering the joists which ultimately wasn't worth it for me, but it sounds like you're down for a lot of work so I would just go all the way. I also did one very small section only on my house (a bathroom) with leveling compound and it turned out good. That was a cracking tile floor though that needed to get redone and I wanted a nice level base for that and the tile can get laid right onto the leveling compound so it made sense. If you do go with leveling compound, seal everything up and add the maximum water recommended to thin it out and mix it with a strong drill with a handle on the side to be confident there's no clumps in it and it'll spread smoothly and even then you'll need a rake or squeegee to spread it out. I also put metal mesh stapled into the subfloor before pouring out to really reinforce it Incase there's anymore movement to prevent the tile from cracking.

If you don't address the sagging joints, anything else you do will just be another bandaid.

Thank you for asking this question, it didn't even occur to me! I bought a new light fixture and replaced mine with the intent of using smart lights, but they say not to use dimmers on them, so I also bought a regular paddle switch to replace the dimmer, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Now I have the answer to a question I was probably going to run into.

You can generally find mostly free scrap metal from farmers or even check with scrap yards

I freely admit I'm not a good welder and use crap steel. I keep grinding and welding til it doesn't break anymore.

Could be another branch that feeds off of this box.

Is the fan maybe humidity controlled? Any small dials / knobs that are visible on it's back? We had such a bathroom fan, and the humidity detector was faulty, but luckily, twisting the "sensitivity dial" to max, just kept the fan on continuously.

Other than that, does it spin if you just push it? As in; is it able to rotate freely?

Might also be nice to know what make and model it is if that's available =)

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One thing that stood out, was that you measured only .3 volts at the switch? as in 300mV?.. That's absolutely nothing, so either there is no available power there, or something on that line is short-circuited (which would drop the potential to nearly 0 volt) but that would also cause any fuses/circuit breakers to pop.

I think you explained it quite well; it goes in line with what I said.

When you heat the air, you increase the amount of moisture the air can hold and thus lowering it's % of moisture saturation.

Worked like a charm. Thanks, internet stranger!

I think that the humidity level in my house would indicate otherwise. We have a dehumidifier that runs if the humidity goes over 60 percent and it doesn't run at all when the heat is on in winter, even with 2 small humidifiers running on low to prevent dangerous levels of dryness (without humidifiers we get nosebleeds, cracked lips and severely dry, chapped skin).

Yea you'll need to get a little piece of 14 ga wire to pigtail off the twisted black wires. Final product should look like this.

If it is white maple that can be notoriously hard to stain. Do you know the species of wood used in the bat?

Not if the humidity is below 20%

When you heat the air you aren't drying the air, but rather increasing the amount of moisture the air can hold. By increasing the moisture content after heating the air you decrease the rate of evaporation of moisture off your skin and thus making it feel warmer.

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You aren't drying the air, but rather increasing the amount of moisture the air can hold by increasing it's temperature. By increasing the moisture contents after heating the air you decrease the rate of evaporation of moisture off your skin and thus making it feel warmer.

The dimmer switch had 2 black single wire leads coming from it, one was wired to the single black wire, and the other was wired to the pair of black wires twisted together. The house is a modular built and wired in Canada, if that makes a difference.

Dimmer switches can be switched out with single poles. I'm really confused by that group of twisted black wires. Did it just have a wire nut on it?

Three way switches have an extra wire.

Yes, I feel like I got a great deal from Kloter Farms. Here is my invoice from 2020: https://i.imgur.com/FINqLP3.jpg

In situations where humidity is less than 20% like at my house it helps a lot.

That makes so much sense. Ill try getting more of the fixture apart soon. I usually only work on 12v electrical and it seemed like something was shorted in line to me. Thank you for the advice.

Sounds likely if you only have four conductors plus ground inside the switch box.

Okay so basically it would probably be that the one set goes in to the fixture and then it splits there and comes back to the switch ?

So you are telling us that you struck out? I will see myself out.