Is the offending light on the same switch as the other four? If not, are any other lights on the same switch as the offending one? It sounds like the light was wired to bypass the switch and just get constant power from the breaker/panel. Does your husband recall how he wired the offending light? Pictures of the junction box wires would help.

Thank you so much for your help. We pay for 300mbps and that is perfect for everything i need, but i live in a pretty large house and would like wired connections for the xbox and other things. There is a telephone cord that is cat5 in every room (dont know why we wanted that many telephones but i am happy now) but when i plug an Ethernet cord into the xbox no internet is brought there; it still uses wifi to connect. The internet connection goes from that one cord in the picture of the whole panel into that splitter that used to go to the cable boxed, router, and cameras. Is there a way to connect that white cord to the splitter? Basically just was those cat5 cables converted to be used for Ethernet

It’s a fun toy. It’s a terrible TV

I assume you added this patch panel when you built the house? If I was your cable provider, that would be my incoming coax. That's your cable internet provision.

The white cable is called "COAX", all the blue wire coming into the back of that panel are Cat5e - which again, is perfectly fine for transmission of speeds up to 1G.

That coax - despite what Comcast might tell you is good for speeds up to... a very much lot ;) But they'll only say 1G.

Let me back up; To be clear, I am a network engineer. Let me ask what I would ask a client: What are you trying to accomplish here? You said you "cut cable". What does that mean? What is your maximum provider speed?

The thing is: Wifi 5, even without obstruction will, in the real world, limit you to 100Mbs. People will tell you otherwise; I work in the real world. You will get 50-60Mbs. Fine for streaming.

Wifi 6, through a not-brick wall will easily give you 400Mbs.

The category of cabling to ANY device only matters if you are:

Over 300 ft at 1Gbps (With Cat5e). Over 150 Ft at 1+Gbs with anthing other than Cat6.

I just built a 10Gbps firewall over 130 ft of Cat6 cabling with NO hinderance.

I could have used fiber, but I wanted to TRY copper.

You should have no limitations.

Let me know what you need help with.

It is quite close to the wall so i am unable to get a picture of the other side without taking it off. Im am unsure of what that white cord is because we used to have it wired for telephone so i am not sure what to do with that white cord

To be sure: You can but any Cat5 or Cat6 cable. It won't matter unless you have distances more than 300 ft.

You have Ethernet, friend-o! That's the back-side of a 10 port ethernet patch panel.

Mind sharing the front side?

panel setup for the ethernet cords do you have any ideas on how to switch this to Ethernet. Its there a way to keep the blue cables plugged in or should I connect them all to rj45 jacks and get a punch panel and run that to the main internet line?

OK, so this is all wunderbar! Yes, the coax to your TV cable box and your cable modem are NOT the same thing -but that's a whole other thing (literally for media (i.e. the actual cable), they are the same thing. for transport, they are not).

CAT5E is basic Category Five Ethernet, it works for phone and Ethernet because it covers all the pin-outs your phone (your RJ-11 vs RJ-45 plugins) uses and YOUR actual ethernet connection. AND ... AND you will see no upgraded speed by changing to actual commerical grade Cat6 or Cat6e, because you aren't going to get more than gig anyway.

You've done great.

Get wifi6 and Upgrade your internet access, because it's not 2010. :) I can pull 600Mbps off my phone on my comcast connection at 4pm.

You need an engineer to prescribe a structuring plan for the undersized joists. Why would you think adding more weight without reinforcing first would work.

There is a foil bubble wrap insulation made for HVAC primarily, but if you remove insulation from around your pipes and the cover the pipe with the foil bubble wrap, then put back your insulation on top of bubble wrap, it should stop that freezing from happening.

Big issue when water pipes are in unconditional spaces is getting covered all around with insulation. You want the pipe to conditioned space with no insulation, and then heavy insulation between pipes and unconditional space.

Don't remove vapor barrier from ceiling or place some plastic on top of ceiling before everything else.

And putting heat wires/tape on pipes under insulation is a horrible idea. Heat wire should be accessible and regularly inspected. If it's under insulation and shorts, you will have a bad situation.

Don't buy it.

Where the heck is that? Solid is much safer for mains wiring.

Speaking from experience? 😜

Higher currant capacity, 120v system so we pull more amps more frequently.

I replied to the wrong guy, my bad :)

pretty much, All in-wall electrical wires are solid, and extension cables are stranded, as the commenter above said!

Heat tracing wire wrap. Amazon, Lowes, Home Despot. You will need power source though.

No, the pipes are connected correctly.

Great idea. I’m going to try it out.

Sure! Is it a good idea? I have no fucking clue.

In canada, all wire are solid wires afaik

The cold water may be getting used more often than the hot.

Stagnant water freezes much quicker in pipes as fresh water carries heat energy with it.

Try leaving a tap on hot just barely on a trickle.

The pipes to one of my water heaters was installed backwards. I wonder if that is what you have also?