YOU shouldn't. Pay an electrician. Burning your house down is not a good risk to save a few bucks.

220v European and the regulations here are solid wire in all domestic and industrial installations. After the plug you can use stranded

In California at least, stranded is used only inside conduit for most gauges of wire, so it's seen more in non-residential. In residential, you use solid for most wiring. Stranded would only be used when you're doing things like a run that goes underground to a secondary building on the property (stranded of whatever size is needed to feed the sub panel) since you'd be running underground conduit, incoming lines, or really low gauge wires like alarms or speakers.

We had a not totally dissimilar problem with a room in our house.

The contractor we hired sistered and nogged the existing joists, so they created a new floor level (slightly proud of the old joists) that was flat and level.

This video is similar to what we had done. https://youtu.be/5-Rvv06_A0k

Because every joist was doubled up, the floor was much stronger and then a new subfloor and glue down hardwood added. Because you have a long span, this may not be sufficient to address the sag.

Agreed. They work, but the image is usually soft (even compared to other projectors), and not bright at all. They’re fun to play with, but the image just isn’t there. A teensy display will like a LOT better.

Sigh. In Europe, the colour coding would help - switched wires have a different colour.

It seems like the 2 blacks are basically the live wire passing thru that .. wall box?

Thank you. My husband looked at this pic and climbed up there, disconnected a few things, taped the mains together and connected the loop. All working properly now. He just needs to go out and get a proper cap to cover the end of the mains. He is looking for one of them now. Thank you again!!!! I no longer need to be blinded on my trips to the bathroom in the middle of the night.

Texas Instruments and Beaglebone I’ve used this setup, but it takes some programming knowledge (or at least it did a few years ago). Incredible picture quality but smallest image that could achieve sharp focus was about 12x18

You should hire a contractor to fix the sagging joists with a beam. Ripping up subfloor is a PITA and just sistering joists won't fix the problem if the joists are resting on something that's sagging. You don't need a hammer drill to remove the flooring or self leveler, you should.just borrow or rent a burke bar. Even glued down stuff will come up with some elbow grease. Put down your own flooring if you want to save $$.

Thank you for all of your help. I will definitely look into all of that tomorrow. I may have a professional come look at this because this may be above my capabilities.

My husband is telling me that it is a "loop" wire.

"It has a neutral, a common, an earth and a loop wire."

He has just gotten home, and I bombarded him with this thread. No pics just yet for you.

Your internet speed comes down to: What is actually plugged into the cable modem?

You have a distribution panel - a patch panel - if you plug into the outlets in your house connected to them, if they are not connected to a switch or hub that is connected to the cable modem, they will immediately default to the wifi on the cable modem.

Your patch panel - that distribution panel - is just a way of getting electrons from one place to another. IMO you need a switch - 12 port switch that gets your patch panel from all the nice clean runs in your house back to - probably your garage? - to your cable modem in a way that passes electrons.

Your cameras might be plugged into the only accessible ports on that cable modem.

Thanks. I have one similar to that, and it's showing good ground on what the previous owner did.

I knew I could get good ground through the green wire on the MC cable, I just didn't know if there were any issues with changing the "medium" (for lack of a better word) of ground on a circuit or if there was a better way.

The current outlet was grounded through the conduit, but the whip I bought was MC and that sheath shouldn't be used for ground. So it will be ground through the conduit up to the point that the homeowner stopped. I'll attach the green wire to that existing box to ground my new outlet.

So when I'm done the ground will look like:

(New Outlet) --green wire--> (Existing Outlet Box) --conduit--> ground

I was trying to figure out if it was ok to do half a circuit grounded through one type and the other half another.

I agree about contacting a reputable stained glass shop. It's likely a special glass, maybe something from DelphiGlass.com (not just plain window glass) and needs to be matched. They'll know what it is.

The repair itself may not be that expensive, they'll un-solder the corner joints to get to get the replacement in. Not a pricey repair.

To OP, I don't suggest trying to remove the window yourself, it needs to be supported just right as it is tipped out or you'll break more of it. The service visits to remove and replace the window may cost more than the actual repair. Overall, it should be some hundreds of dollars. I don't think you'll be happy with a clear glass replacement for the panel, and a new door is overkill.

wow that shed turned out VERY nice !

So the white cord in the middle of the splitter connects to the modem. The white cord on the left connects to cable tv and the black cable on the right connects to the cameras. Also i should not that this picture was taken before i moved the modem router. Now the middle white cable is replaced with one of the cables on the top right of the panel that went to the living room. The modem and router are now there and not in this panel room. The modem connects to the router through Ethernet. The white. Cable on that punch panel with the cat 5 wires goes straight into the wall and to the internet provider.

Run resistance heater wire around the pipe then insulate that. Power the wire with a small solar panel.

Experiment to see if you need to add a battery.

That looks pretty similar. Thank you for your suggestion, I will update once the husband returns.

https://www.buildmyowncabin.com/electrical/wiring-switch-power-into-light.html

At a guess, you may have this situation. Power comes into the light junction box and then runs down and back to the switch before going into the light. If you connect it all together in the light junction box, you could be bypassing the switch.

So the white cord in the middle of the splitter connects to the modem. The white cord on the left connects to cable tv and the black cable on the right connects to the cameras. Also i should not that this picture was taken before i moved the modem router. Now the middle white cable is replaced with one of the cables on the top right of the panel that went to the living room. The modem and router are now there and not in this panel room. The modem connects to the router through Ethernet. The white. Cable on that punch panel with the cat 5 wires goes straight into the wall and to the internet provider.

Hey OP, there's a great little unit that can test proper wiring and also test GFCI outlets. To me, they are a must for anyone DYI'ing home wiring, or if a previous home-owner has done some of their own wiring work. Best part is it's under $13: https://smile.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M?th=1

If you are curious, turn off the circuit breaker, separate the black wires, and see what doesn't work.

I'd guess it's a nearby outlet (non switched)

Wait...

Let's fix this right now:

Where is your Cable modem and what is plugged Directly into it? Other than than the coax?

Really, Imma end this problem right now.

It's on its own switch. It is in the bathroom, the other lights that have been replaced so far are in the loungeroom and 2 of the bedrooms. Only the bathroom one is not turning off. When the old light fixture was in, it worked normally. I will ask my husband to get some pics when he gets home. I'll see if he minds pulling the light down again so we can get some pics of all the wires that are in the roof and going into the light (not sure if that's what you mean by "Junction box").

And all stranded wires require 1 gauge larger wire by code for the same level of power delivery! :)