Your locksmith is a con man

What combined r value would you suggest? I realize it may be dependent on temperature but I have a similar situation with city water entering the house via an unconditioned garage/attic which freezes.

I'd box it in and fill it with hydraulic cement

Super helpful, thanks!!

Seems like the projected image quality isn't too bad?

yeah without pictures its hard to say, but you've pretty much have done everything wrong. and Because you tried leveling sagging areas, things will only get worse.

joists have maximum spans depending on species, grade, thickness and width. they also different allowable levels of sag, and periods of time where excessive loads can cause deflection/sag.

also, without blocking, joists/ beams will twist. because a joist/beam is in compression AND tension on the outer edges of the horizontal member, those members get their strength from the height [up and down] and stability from the width/ flange. a joist essentially wants to twist when put under load, to the point its flat, especially in the center. the flatter it gets obviously the weaker the member is. this is exceptionally troublesome in big beams. as you lose upright positioning you sag more as you lose "strength".

wooden joists have no flange, they're usually just 1.5" to 2" depending on age. to fight this twisting, you need lateral support. members acting on members. this is where blocking comes into play. you've seen two pieces Xed between joists, or solid, and sometimes two 1x or 2x boards at top and bottom. if you don't have hangers at joist ends, blocking will significantly help whether it's a wood joist or steel beam. usually blocking is only required on something like 16?ft spans or so? for 2x12s or larger? but what blocking does is help distribute the load, add stiffness by preventing deflection which decreases sag.

this next part depends on span. so what you can do is jack up the floor and sister joist members with same size or LARGER members if you can take the height difference. every 2 inches you add to board height essentially doubles the load they can hold, every board you sister is slightly less. wood quantity for wood quantity, moving to the next 2x size is significantly more efficient/ cheaper and stronger with less deflection. you can notch the ends of the joists to fit a bigger member. while not ideal, it will still greatly benefit. you can also add end blocking on top of that and run joist hangers to support the bottom addition.

you can also add a beam, steel, wood, engineered lumber, again depends on load/span. you'll still likely be sistering the existing joists as they'll likely be permanently deformed. the beam can usually be mounted flush, and joists hangered, but you can also run beam beneath. there's some decent math to do here and no one here has enough information and really shouldn't Because of safety and insurance.

your floor may be within spec and the sag is okay, without pics, or measurements etc its hard to say.

but yeah you made your job a bit harder as once you jack up your floor, your previous adjustments will be very proud. and you can shave the floor if it's a wood product, you likely only have a 1/4 or so before you get down to the tongue. I forget what floor you said you're trying to save. it might look like shit when this is all said and done and you'll be doing more work and money in the end.

if you try something like shimming the floor from underneath, trying to fasten underneath. lol. hope I get to see that thread too. the half assed leveler is likely going to be the problem and was improper assessment. depending how it was discussed, you hired a flooring guy to install floor. it's like going to a boob surgeon and complaining you walked out with big boobies. they work with a lot of out if Level garbage and a lot of people don't do the work to level because they don't care and are likely going to flip it. next time try to assess the issues properly and come up with a plan. you can start now. at least you know who to point your fingers at when you complain about pulling certain things out [yourself]

you may find you had beams or supports and someone removed them. this is the case with a lot of houses because of open concept flipping. you can stay open concept but you have to do it right

Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

• Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.

• Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

• You are asking about a project that someone else did, or you're considering having someone else do.
• You are not asking a question relating to something DIY.
• You are not asking a question at all.
• You are submitting a "DIY Tips" or "Tricks" post.
• You are trying to submit a survey / fundraiser.
• You are asking what an item is called - try /r/whatisthisthing.
• /r/DIY allows only two types of posts - finished projects & help requests.
• If your submission is neither of these - it will be removed.

Please read our Full Sub Rules before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

###Do not respond to this comment - you will not receive a response.

Here's my NXcam projector. Should be the same from everything I looked at. First pic is 9" from wall with a 4 1/2" wide image. Second pic is 25" from wall with a 12" wide image. You can't zoom the projected image. Distance dictates size. I played around with a couple of crappy magnifying lenses and with the right combo and decent quality lens you could throw a little image a lot further. It was upside down but you can always feed it an upside down image and it will project right side up.

100-200 to pick a lock 200 to drill it plus 150 to install a new one plus 100 profit on said new lock....

Check out elliot on youtube at theretrofuture. Amazing guides on what is possible

I'm certain there was a professionally produce 'retropie' Gameboy release the other year.... Can't remember who did it through.

When buying retropie kits, you can source new screens, power, the lot. Huuuuge community out there, so promise someone has already gone through it all & has probably written a guide!

Can't point you specifically to any site, but know I've seen it all when I've looked previously.

I figured RetroPi is the way to go, I guess I just don't know anything about replacing the screen, connecting the buttons, etc. But I'm sure there's guides out there for that.

Tbh I'm not too worried about playing any particular games, I actually wanna try programming the emulator as a learning experience.

When people rebuild Gameboys, the electronics is basically the only part people keep. Everything else gets replaced.

Lots of videos on how to build a 'retropie' Gameboy. I built a system a couple of years ago, but not quite as small as a Gameboy. The raspberry pie systems have got silly small & capable now, & software is just 'download & go'.

Hardest thing these days ..... Roms. Technically all illegal to download (well certainly the big games you want), but sites are being took down all the time.

BS. Locks are for honest people.

Your key is a chunk of metal, what is it doing in your lock that his whole toolbox is incapable of doing?

A pick or bump key goes in the same hole as the key. Sounds odd to me, but ???

They said they couldn’t because there’s a blocker on the front door preventing anything from slipping in. Or is that BS?

>locksmith had to come and drill the lock out.

WTH? Any locksmith worth his salt should have been able to pick any standard residential lock in seconds. Why did he feel the need to drill it?

And if the new core is loose it's definitely less secure. Probably some cheap AliExpress knockoff that doesn't fit right.

At this point I'd just replace the whole handle. Recoring it is more of a pain than it's worth.

Did the locksmith give you any kind of guarantee? They should stand behind their workmanship.

Any chance it fails somehow and locks me out?

The core. It's probably loose because it's an aftermarket one. It's likely no less safe than the original

Yes but alway consult the instructions there are ways to safely cover downlights with insulation – in the form of IC rated lights. An IC rating indicates that the light is suitable to come into contact with your building insulation. In other words, an IC rated light can be adjoined and directly covered with insulation. Though, you should still always consult your manufacturer’s instructions to avoid any potential fire hazards.

Isn't that what IC means?

The instructions I got were lackluster.

He probably didn’t realize the cans were IC rated, thinking he would need to create a 1’-5 sides box out of 1/4” mesh to keep the insulation away from the cans was thing it would take a lot of extra time! please for the love of what ever you believe in, make sure you read the instructions for you cans that they can be installed with insulation surrounding them as most can say its a no go for warranty purposes as it traps heat!

No, you didn't mislead him, and rightfully, he should have mentioned that little detail, but he chose not to. The reason, I believe, because it works most of the time. People that do this, know ahead of time they will use a super low priced service to get through the door, and then drop an upcharge after getting all set up, and beginning the work. 95% of the time, people with just figure it's their dumb luck that the project will cost a lot more than anticipated, and pay the upcharge. You did the correct thing by sending him on his way, IMO.

That looks really cool--thanks!