Having built a number of professional sound studios I can confirm that the approach is valid. It won't do a lot for high frequency sound transmission but is very effective for low frequency. Typically 5/8 drywall layers (2-3 depending on the STC requirement) applied with acoustic adhesive with each layer staggered horizontal vs. vertical . This is one product but there are others from which to choose. https://www.amazon.com/Case-Green-Glue-Noiseproofing-Compound/dp/B000SKWD8Y?th=1

Building double walls with sound damping bats in between is also another approach but typically is less effective at low frequency- given less mass. Unless you are trying to emulate studio conditions I'd stick with layering drywall but be advised that at 3 layers you will be adding a lot of weight on the studs and flooring so unless you are building on slab you may want to give consideration to achieving a reasonable balance between STC and weight/as well as cost.

As for high frequency remember that any penetration of a space--for piping, hvac, electric outlets as well as doors and windows is a potential source of kleaking high frequency noise into and out of a space. All penetrations should be sealed with a firestop rated acoustic sealant. Solid core doors and fixed windows--if possible with acoustic caulking and multipanes. Now, none of this addresses sound shaping and the elimination of standing waves etc. but if the purpose is to create a quiet room--and/or shield adjacent structure from noise it will give you a decent result. Good luck.

Thanks!

Do you know if the existing wall has insulation? If not... then maybe the best option is to tear down all the drywall, add sound dampening insulation to the wall cavity, and then re-drywall it up with whatever number of layers you feel like.

You should be able to set the boiler or mixing setup on an outdoor reset curve and use thermostats with floor temp sensors and the floor temp will change with the OA temp and pretty much never shut off

Haha, I also added an update to my post, the guy tests carpet glue 3 4x cheaper than green glue but performs better.

this is an interesting one, Ardex S48 is a tile adhesive, wasn't aware tile adhesive would work as well. Thanks for the suggestion, If I can get rid of 20 bags of plaster adhesive then I may apply this, wouldn't drywall adhesive work in the same manner as well?

do you mean 15mm sound block board sticked to the drywall and then dabbed with small punches?

do you mean PU foam?

u/Amazing-Voice-122 I added an update to address your suggestion, The room width is 265cm, so I'm going to cut that to 260cm, but I don't want to exceed that 5cm while applying a solution.

It is not a bad idea. It is done with special acoustic glue - it is very gooey and doesn't dry hard like most glues. Good damping. They suggestion you apply it in a random pattern and not stripes or dabs to avoid creating sharp resonances.

I don't know if you can get it where you are, but perhaps once you see it you can find something similar or at least read the instructions to get some tips... And, BTW, they still want some screws for mechanical strength and to satisfy the building codes.

https://www.greengluecompany.com/

Thanks!

Theres a special type of plaster for just this job. Check out the video: https://youtu.be/K7ODiCQhS-o?t=115

Just adding another layer of drywall won't help very much. A better but more expensive method would be to put up another wall with acoustic insulation between and no connecting framing between the two walls that would conduct sound vibrations. A gap of an inch or two between them would be sufficient.

Lots of small dabs and 15mm sound block board?

Use construction glue?

Yeah I've done lighting before. It's more of how to deal with insulation and how to run a new wire through the wall frame

Attempted noise reduction :-)

>what kind of moron [...]

The kind that blocks an electrical panel.

The post is removed now, but the panel was blocked as mentioned in another comment.

People saying to reduce noise have never compared waving your arm in the air and then waving it between two planks and see what makes more noise. A dryer tumbles. Which makes it shake, if you shake up against two planks you going to end up with MORE noise. Besides what kind of moron do you have to be to put a dryer, which generates huge amounts of heat, in a small, confined space with nowhere for the heat to go.

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You can stack the appliances without the cabinet, so the reason is something else -- noise and looks is my take on it.

I have an old Aaxa laser pico projector that would work, but the flicker is unpleasant and it only plays low res

surely the obvious answer is it saves floor space?

At least in our case we have the drier on top of the washer because of space.

In your case, it looks like their is an open stairway next to it. If so, could be there as added safety to help prevent the dryer from tumbling.

(Sorry for the pun. I'll show myself out...)

EDIT: just realized the photo is an example, not yours specifically.

As others said I can't imagine any reason you need the cabinet other than to hide the appliances... I suppose in theory the cabinet could keep them from tipping from vibration or if the leveling is off. But I would have some concern about heat, leaks or accessing the vent.