They make pipe insulation for a reason friend.... Loose batt is for walls and ceilings not for pipes...It's more work and will cost you more than just getting the right size pipe insulation.

The last time I went to our big box hardware store for it, PVC was very expensive, and a lot was sold out. I get it though. My counter offer would be to replace all the piping if the thing ran all the time. With it never running, seems overkill to redo it all, especially for a weekend warrior. My two cents. Course every 3-5 years I pay a guy to essentially drill out our iron pipes from the 70s to the street at the first signs of slow drains… so maybe I’m not the best option.

Not the answer you’re looking for but if you’re worried about frozen pipes you can get heated wires/tape that sticks to the pipes and switches on when the temp gets too cold.

Pipe wrap tape

I get an access denied :D

Utility knife will get it done just have to be careful.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Christy-s-2-in-x-100-ft-Plumber-s-Tape/3433996?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--plb--ggl--LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings--3433996--local--0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaWdBhAvEiwAGAQltqQnf2Vy_05FUvy6MhJI4v-0Wp4YdTANZJaSjgLAK2neSio4OJ9k3xoC3AIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Mine didn't even take wall plates off when painting. And also tended to paint over the actual outlets. I just.... can't.

Contrary to others here, if it were me, and it was 7 years ago when we bought our home...If you are replacing the pump, replace the check valve and pipes as well. The entire run of a new PVC output is considerably less than the pump itself. This is especially true if you have galvanized steel pipe. That can easily corrode from the inside while looking fine on the outside.

Just because it doesn't run much does "Not" mean there is life left in it. What it really means for a sump pump is the bearings may be stuck in place, float switch may be stuck from lack of motion, the impeller may be jammed by dirt/debris. All of which could mean a flooded basement. The cost of a pump is cheap compared to repairing a flood. And because it is dry does not mean you shouldn't worry about it. Especially with our constantly changing climate. Hell who'd have though Texans would have needed bigger furnaces and snow shovels just a few years ago...

I'd replace the pump, the check valve and all piping. And if you sump doesn't run on its own dump a five gallon bucket of water in the sump pit a couple times a year to test and clear and debris that can get into the sump.

Guarantee it's because you let thinset build up around the spacer which prevents it from breaking low enough. Cut this one out manually. Use a Dremel if a knife won't work. In the futur, clean off the spacers with your spatula before they dry and this won't happen .

Looks like you have filled the grout line with thinset around the tab so it cannot break off properly. You need to be mor careful with your thinset or get one of those grout scrapers with the carbide or diamond grit to grind out the remaining thinset and spacer piece.

to me it kinda looks like you're double-using them as spacers, and if so, the tiles holding them will essentially strengthen them throughout the thickness of the tile. so the weak point of the levelling tabs becomes where there's no more tile; flush with the surface.

Its best to fix the problem causing the issues, not create a bandaid that adds extra weight to the problem

I second replacing the check valve. I do not have a dry basement and my pumps lasted a few years between replacement. Last time i put in a check valve and the pump has lasted at least twice as long.

Ohhh that actually makes a ton of sense thanks! Btw there's no way tanks are usually this dirty? I haven't looked in there in years I just forgot about it.

Is it a hazard? There's literally weird blueish green foamy dust everywhere

Try flexing a few prior to installing to weaken the joint and see if that helps. Also, should be hitting parallel to grout joint with mallet.

Its just brass it will easily cut with a hacksaw

There's a notch of slightly thinner plastic near the base that's where it bends and break

You don’t drill a hole to bring it into the adjacent cabinet you bring the wire back through the drywall to come through the back of the adjacent cabinet then with a power cord you run the the bottom corner of the adjacent cabinet back to the dishwasher. The romex that is there shouldn’t be left exposed to possible damage.

Its a drip cap. Not a particularly well constucted one. If its raining, even a slight breeze can blow the rain against the exterior wall and it then runs down the wall. The drip prevents it from flowing into the small gap betwwen the top of ghe window or door and ingo your house

I'm hitting them in line with grout line to try to break it off from the weak spot/notch they put on the leveler but it ends up deforming the plastic and ending up breaking flush. If I hit it perpendicular to the grout line then it breaks cleanly off flush with the tile.

Been doing my own wiring for about 50 years.

Education. Read the appropriate wiring standards. Be compliant. Take care. Check your work. Test.

Have never had to pay an electrician to diagnose anything.

If the pipes look good, don't fix what ain't broke.

PVC is a cheaper alternative to metal for new construction or repairs, it's not necessarily better.

If it hasn't been submerged or run much, the pump itself probably has life left in it. Still, pumps are cheap and a critical item so it makes sense to replace.

Absolutely replace the check valve. Rubber seals deteriorate over time whether they're used or not.

Which direction are you hitting them relative to grout line? Perpendicular would break them like this.

I've never used this brand, but the kits I've seen come with nippers that cut off the plastic tabs, so they must be designed to cut them off below flush