Buy pipe insulation. cut it down to the size and length you need and push it in the seal at the bottom of the door. Cost you less than $10 and you'll have extra. You could also use a pool noddle and do the same thing.

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Yikes!

Looks like you need a strip of drywall and a run of weather stripping attached to that. Then you need some foam core to drop into the aluminum slots in the door — this helps a LOT to prevent heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. Last thing if you don’t have it is weather stripping down the sides of the opening.

Box in the ductwork so it isn’t exposed. Build a frame around the ductwork with lumber, then screw the dry wall to the frame and finish with seam tape, exterior corner drywall bead, and spackling compound, primer and paint. Do it right, don’t hack away at a piece of drywall to fit it around the ductwork, will still look bad.

You still need to stay clear of the incoming power. That said, it shouldn't be difficult to mount it while avoiding contact with the live conductors.

It’s not the middle is higher

24v is standard you are good

Is it even all the way across? If so, there’s usually a close distance adjustment on the opener motor.

Following I have this same issue but on one side only.

https://imgur.com/a/6YvJn76

If I put in a 16 or 24 V, will that cause an issue for the back doorbell?

Once you flip the breaker, you're good.

It brings the 2 tiles level with each other so the tile is flush. You won't get uneven tiles.

No sir, I did not edit the original post. That's strange. Anyways, hope my entire post is showing up for you and others.

Did you edit your post? I didn't see that there when I replied.

I just bought my house, on my to do list is to get all the pipes scoped to make sure I don't run into drainage issues. If after the scope cam comes up either clear or needing attention I'll start looking at what is next. I have a mix of PVC and Galvanised steel pipes, but not switching unless there is a need to.

Another DIY noob here: I would make a cardboard template the size of the opening, then use that to pattern to a strip of drywall. Cut, chip and break the drywall to get that oval opening around the ducting. Concentrate on fitting the opening closest to you (as you stand there on your ladder); an insulation strip of foam can fill the gap. Since the ducting touches drywall on the right in this picture, just cut two more small triangles to fit the unseen corners closer to the wall. I would adhere those to the wall/drywall, then tape them in place until they dry since it looks like there’s no wood to screw them to. Mud the gaps, paint the repair and then the ducting to match the wall or ceiling. Then stuff the insulation strip around the curve of the ducting. Otherwise box it in like previously mentioned.

There is insulation twine crisscrossing the joists to hold up the insulation but this is not what I am referring to.

There is a white wire that is running parallel to the joist. The wire sleeve is an off-white almost the same color as the insulation.

Is that wiring? Based on the crisscrossing it looks like it’s just holding the insulation in place?

Did you read my initial post? I explained that I am installing the Ring Doorbell Pro 2, which requires a transformer of 16-24 V.

Why do you need it to be 16-24?

You'll need to replace your doorbells too, otherwise you'll blow them up or shatter your house's windows when you use them.

Drywall to be consistent. Boxing it in by making a wood frame. 2x2s would work.

Quick and dirty would be to take a piece of panelling and nailing it down then coating with some joint compound and taping the joints.

Good idea, but remember to mark where the wires are so you don’t drill into them. I’m sure you’ve already thought about that though!

Sorry, should have been clearer - I’m not sure what materials are correct to use to do that. House DIY noob here.

Fill it or box it in. Looks as if the basement is a livable area why not keep it cleaned up.