If possible, can you move the wiring so it is more out of the way?
For the dirt, you could build a green treated wall to hold it back.

Assuming your diagram is correct, your fixture is already wired incorrectly.

From the breaker panel, by convention, the black wire is Line, and the white wire is Neutral. The switch should be interrupting the Line, not the Neutral.

You want to tap into the load side of the switch and wire nut the blacks together and whites together.

Good for you

Is there a gap where air passes thru at the top edge?

I had a gap and by careful adjustment of the down-limit, I got some more pressure on the door and most of the gap was closed. That's the fastest thing you can do in this weather.

Then I got that garage weatherstrip and used rivets and little washers to hold the weatherstrip on just right. I did mine in the summertime and I can't imagine trying to do it in the cold.

I'm trying to think of a fast way to do something.

You might use doublesided carpet tape to affix some insulation up there.

If you have some steel up there and a bunch of magnets, maybe you could do something that way.

I can't tell what's going on here, but "pink insulation", or any fiber/ stranded insulation don't block air. it has r value but you'll still be promoting air exchange. you'll most likely want a foam, whether that's rigid board or spray, or both. there's other ways to block air transfer, but it depends on construction.

I can't tell if that's a dimensional rift, foil, or missing drywall

At work we essentially use a rockwool product for pipes. Rockwool with plastic outer tubes. Bigger than home pipe insulation and also works up to steam temperatures. Unless I was running a recirc pump I would go with standard home depot pipe insulation.

Enjoyed scrolling through all the photos, nicely done OP

They do act as spacers in addition to levelers. You can get the plastic clips for 1/8 or 1/16.

In our experience they made a huge difference in the proper leveling of the tiles. We tiled the whole ground floor of the house, and the part where we only used regular spacers isn’t as even as where we used the tile leveling system (fortunately it’s just a small part, we wised up pretty quickly) the system we used is made by Peygran; we were able to reuse much of the system and just needed to repurchase the plastic clips. It’s not cheap, but the result was worth it.

Absolutely this. Depending on the geometry of the room and the rest of the walls, might even want to try an angled frame the full length of the wall with an undercut piece of drywall, mimicking a slanted attic ceiling if you don't want a random "box" in a corner.

I would replace the pipe with PVC just because steel (or iron) pipe gets nasty over time, and you have no way of inspecting the inside of the pipe to see how rusty / obstructed it is.

And, this might blow some minds, you can get clear PVC pipe. A little icky for normal sanitary piping around your house, but perfect for a sump pump drain - you can see what is happening inside the pipe... see if it's obstructed, water is flowing, etc.

(regular PVC pipe is white since they use the cheapest filler possible - ground up limestone).

https://www.clearpvcpipe.com/products/schedule-40-clear-pvc-pipe-1-4-in-to-12-in-size-10-ft-lengths

Here's one version of the clear quiet check valve - https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/Zoeller-30-0041/p14772.html

Great question!!! And keep thinking like this..

They are called "nail plates"

The wire, by code, should be nailed 1/2 way across the 2x4 if both sides drywall, or against the back if non used or brick.

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So i would use a carbide grout removal tool. I found it works better with the plastic than the diamond grout saw.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Marshalltown-Carbide-Bit-Red-Plastic-Grout-Remover/5001934083

Thats the breaker unless your talking mains then that's a terrible idea.

Yes, they are like an upsidedown T that then has something that either screws to it or goes through it clamping down on both faces of the 2 tiles.

Push it into the edge of the bottom seal. It will be fine both of my garage doors are that way.

I do alot of tile work. I started running my finger around the grout line before I insall the next tile. It wipes away the morter or mastic. Makes clean up a breeze. Also clean your grout lines as you go much easier to clean before it's set. A sponge and bucket of water is a very good thing to have on hand when doing tile work

You mean flush? Like the vertical plane because it's like a t shape or something? Instead of having to eye ball it?

I think you may just need to gear them up so they can take on higher xp challenges - might speed along the leveling process.

(Sorry/not sorry for this useless joke comment).

Be careful. Not everything is meant to be sealed. For instance, people with rubble stone foundations (not hat you have one) always post on here about sealing foundation walls which in some instances could spell disaster. In certain applications you want moisture (not flowing water obviously) to be able to pass through so that it doesn’t build up pressure behind the wall. Also, with something like you have pictured here, that may have been done that way to allow flexibility for shifting. I wouldn’t just go about it Willy Nilly. Look around and see what the purpose of that might have been. There may be no purpose and it may just be sloppiness, but bottom line is, don’t assume it’s wrong the way that it is. The dirt looks a little darker at the bottom of the photo there. Is that moisture?

It prevents essentially all wind driven rain from running into the top of the window. It definitely helps. That said, a properly constructed window using modern materials doesn't require this.

Don’t do that. As others have said, it’s not meant for that and you can put that insulation elsewhere. Plus, to secure it to pipes you’ll likely end up compressing it which reduces the R value.

This is a great idea. My only worry is that it’ll hook on the frame once it opens. But I’ll definitely try this out! Thanks.