Peel off the tape to see where the leak is coming from. It may just be a pinhole, maybe it's a crack. If the leak is coming from high enough on the pipe then your simplest bet will be cut the tube and use a sharkbite fitting to replace the valve. They sell shark bites that already have the valve on it. Just remember to shut the water off to the house before you cut that line. If you aren't comfortable doing repairs then get a professional.

For removing the stuff off the floor you can try CLR or even vinegar.

As others said, looks like you have adhesive around the spacer, which prevents it breaking where it should.

Screws. For the love of God, spend the extra .0002 cents and use dry wall screws.

redo all the piping.

Move wire to side of joist and use wire U-clips every 4 feet along the length of the wire to tack the wire *at least* 1 1/2" from the bottom of the joists.

Use furring strips perpendicular to joists to make drywalling easier. Will make straight lines for you to screw drywall to and give you a 3" width instead of trying to screw two meeting edges of drywall within the 1 1/2" width of your joist which may be bent/flexed and no longer perfectly straight.

Use correct length of drywall screws so there's no penetration (thickness of furring strip + thickness of drywall)

Yeah definitely, if its loose and you can move it in, definitely smack it down with a hammer and nails

Try posting this on r/Plumbing as well 👍

pretty sure you drew your diagram wrong so not even addressing that diagram.

if someone called me on the phone and asked, I'd say "wire the outlet to the white, black, and neutral of the light fixture"15A circuit you will have 14/2 or 12/2 wire, you must use the same gauge at what's currently used20A circuit will have 12/2 wire

if by any chance any of the wire has a red, it's 12/3 or 14/3 so the above wouldn't be correct. Won't elaborate on that since you haven't mentioned red wire.

>The power does NOT go to the light then to the switch. That would be a code violation. You would never be able to disconnect the power to the light.

Actually you can start with line power at the fixture. And be code compliant
At fixture's box:
Line1 black -> black of 14/3
Neutral white -> white of 14/3
Ground -> ground of 14/3

This 14/3 goes to switch box
Ground the switch, connect black and red to each leg of switch
Cap the neutral if not needed (ie: illuminated switch)

Back at fixture box, connect RED, WHITE, and GROUND to light fixture

The cracks are where the sheets of plaster join and one of the sheets is out a few mil further than the other. Would you reckon whacking a few nails in it to get it flat first or would joining tape be enough

Tape and compound will do it. Try to sand down to the bare sheets beforehand so your tape and compound dont stand out too much.

Use a long, flat sander to get the finish as smooth as possible, and then be sure to topcoat it with a finishing compound, it makes a big difference.

It probably should. Guess it depends on how wide of a crack it is. I've repaired cracks up to ~6" though no problem. Might run into problems if it's wider than that as the patch can "bubble" outwards and become more noticeable. Higher chance of happening if it's an exterior wall that is prone to temperature changes than an interior wall. Can also apply in stages and let each small patch reduce the hole size and properly cure versus one big glob of compound trying to cure. If the visual doesn't bother, then should be ok as an interim fix i believe

A crack is a sign the foundation is sinking. Some cracks formed when the house was built and settled and are fine.

Others are not fine.

Yeah, I seem to have overthought it. Those other comments about thinset seem much more logical than my thought process.

You cannot add a second switched outlet to a wire that is already on a switch. Then both switches would have to be on for the light to work. The only exceptions would be a three way or four way switch.

You clearly do not understand wiring and should not be messing with electricity.

Your diagram is not correct. You probably should not be doing any wiring if you do not know what your doing. The switch connects to the hot wire, then connects to the light. All of the common wires are connected together.

The power does NOT go to the light then to the switch. That would be a code violation. You would never be able to disconnect the power to the light.

Thanks alot for taking a look. First time taking on basement plumbing, the reading makes more sense when you can put it together with what you're looking at in your workspace. Appreciate it!

My local hardware store also sells much smaller sizes so I’ll probably try it out on a sample piece and if it doesn’t work I’ll just make a cork board

This whole area is stubbed out for a bathroom.

1. vent stubout
2. for shower drain.
3. toilet ring
4. sink drain stub out.

When you plumb in your sink, you will need to run its own vent. That will tie into the inwall drain.

I’m not an expert so my guess this all leads to a septic tank.

[removed]

Vent?

Totally would work if the neutral is switched, but it's not safe. It means the fixture is always "hot". In the end, it's not likely to cause problems, but it's backwards.

Really this boils down to your switch. Does the white or black wire run to it? Unless it's a smart switch, it will only have one, not both.

As far as adding a on to that circuit, you can tap into whatever is down stream (ie a light) and run a new line (white/black/ground) from that light to your outlet.

You can do the same from the switch itself also, but that's more of a fauxpau

Can't see the pix, but you can run a 2-wire 14-gauge from the new outlet to the switch and just screw in the black wire to the load side of the switch - you can have two wires on a switch load. Some switches have the ability to receive a wire pushed in on the backside, sometimes you have to run a short wire from the switch nut to and bind 3 wires together - up to you.

Thanks, I’ll check again, but I looked at this a long time when I made the diagram. If it’s wired wrong, might explain why I didn’t find anything online that matched it. I didn’t wire it, but, it works now to switch the fixture.