You are going to hurt anything. However, I would make sure your "garage" meets code for insurance. They require a fire wall between any space with a roll up door. Or, you can have a garage door into your basement.
Not a huge deal but in the event of a fire, the claim could get complicated

So, it is a standard project, then. /silly

Winter in Washington, not a problem to park a wet car inside. The humidity indoors is lower than you might guess, thanks to the difference in temperature. Things will dry out just fine. The concrete will be undamaged; it will not be subject to freezing or anything. The portion of your garage that is below grade will be the cause of all your water troubles; a few drops on your car will be nothing.

Under that red spot will be a (most likely allen headed) set screw.

Awesome thank you! Sorry yeah I’m definitely not an expert. I’m going to have it inspected of course when I finish, just didn’t want to have to redo a bunch of wiring if I was headed down the wrong path.

Yes that's fine. Generally when describing the layout you describe from the panel to the first outlet/switch but you described it backwards. No issues with your layout though

Ok so if I start the 12/2 with the outlet on the right side of the door (as you're looking at the image) and run outlet to outlet until I get to the one to the left of the closet. From that outlet can I run that 12/2 to the switch in the closet, then 12/2 from the switch in the closet to the recessed light, and 12/2 from that switch to the next outlet. Then that outlet to the left of the bedroom door to the light switch by the door. Then 12/3 from the bedroom door switch to the ceiling fan/light. Finishing with a homerun from that switch to the electrical panel

I'm going to figure out how to word/diagram that better maybe that will help.

Heya, former WA peep here! If you're in one of the older houses with that setup (esp in the Kitsap area), highly highly recommend having a plan in case that basement floods, even a few inches.

I lived out in the Kitsap area for a hot minute, and every major rain storm trickled into our basement one way or another, so check your basement out during and after storms from time to time.

If you have a neighbor you're cool with who has a similar house layout, ask them if it's ever been an issue where you're at.

You can always use larger gauge wire. 14 is minimum gauge for 15A breaker and 12 is minimum for 20A breaker.

The size you use is based on the breaker size. That being said, lights use so little power and 14 gauge is so much cheaper and easier to work with that most ppl put them on a 15A circuit. If the lights are separate from outlets, then in the event you trip a breaker due to high loads on the outlets, you still have lights in the room to see what you're doing.

As for your other wiring question(s) what do you mean by switch loop? That is terminology for when you run power to light fixture, then to the switch. Nowadays it's generally better (and code in most/all areas) to run power to light switch first, then to the fixtures. That allows neutral to be present at the switch in case of a smart switch

For routing I would just wire from the nearest outlet/switch to the next outlet/switch. Outlets you can continue on by wiring directly to the outlet itself. Note if you do this in a 20A circuit you need to use 20A outlets. If you pigtail before connecting to the switch then 15A outlets are fine to use even on 20A circuits. Then on switches you should always pigtail before connecting to the switch otherwise everything beyond it in the circuit will be switched power.

EDIT: crossed out a section. I think all 15A UL certified outlets are rated for 20A pass through, so they're fine to use

Great point about outside unfinished concrete! Thanks for the input.

Understood. Thank you for the tip!

Thank you for this! I will definitely be looking into this. Don't get me wrong - I very much care about exhaust fumes.

Another commenter mentioned about the concrete and framing members around this space, so I'll leave that alone, but you seem unconcerned about the exhaust fumes. You shouldn't be. This room needs to have a continuous, undamaged vapour barrier isolating it from the rest of the house to keep you safe.

It's probably the fill valve in the toilet not the shutoff. You won't be wasting your time replacing the shutoff though. But if it's not actively leaking I'd 100% start with the fill valve first.

Source: 14 year journeyman plumber.

You can also get a tool for pulling the compression ring off without cutting the pipe, assuming the pipe is still in good condition.

They make epoxy coatings for just such a use. Some businesses do only this for customers.

Lots of concrete doesn't have a coating however. Think about driveways, sidewalks, parking lots, street etc.

If you want your floor to be perfect then a coating is the way to go. Otherwise, it's probably fine.

Buy all the parts you might use first. If possible at least two ways of doing it.

You don’t want to discover that you can’t get parts and you can’t put the old one back on so you have no water in your house.

Also quarter turn for the win.

Seal the concrete if you’re worried about it. I’d be more concerned about water damage to the bottom plate of your partition walls than I would with the concrete.

Understood on 14/12, but I have a large roll of 12 as the rec area will have higher load from devices, so just figured on doing it all in 12. I mostly just wanted to make sure I CAN run outlet to outlet and loop the switches in with it.

I did forget to include the smoke/co2 detectors but I am going to be wiring those inline with the existing ones

That is correct, but with the cost of wire, 14/3 is avoided.

That is what those are. I do construction.
The square box is framed out there won't be any concrete there once he takes off the tape. Find a 2"pvc pipe sticking up. That is where the shower drain will go. The ring on the floor, that is a toilet ring. Not getting away from that one. The way it is currently oriented the toilet can only go one of 2 ways. 90° opposite of the slides. The other two coming up, the #1 is too close to the shower to be the sink, it is also too small. That leaves it the vent. The last one sticking up, that one is far enough away to allow for a vanity. Thus a sink.

Very good point if it's an issue following the weather. If this turns out to be the solution, OP should keep this on the list of things to address asap.

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12 gauge wire is not required. 14/2 & 14/3 would be more appropriate and cost effective and easier to put on the devices. It is typically easier to go outlet to outlet then hit your light switches then lights and fans.

Check your local code for smoke/co2 detectors, arcfault circuit breakers and make sure to have neutrals in the switch locations.

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