I totally understand the recommendation of wiring separately part, as well as the 12/14 part. I had a large 12/2 roll and the rec area is going to have some higher loads on it so I just figured I'd do it all in 12. I was going to also wire the bedroom, bathroom, and rec areas on separate breakers since the rec area has larger load and I have plenty of room in my box. That is why I was going to wire the lights together with the outlets. There will be a ceiling fan/light in the bedroom, a recessed light in the bedroom closet, a vanity light in the bathroom and 6 other recessed lights in the rec area. Would you instead wire the closet, ceiling fan/light, and rec area lights together? The rec area outlets will still have to be separate, there will be a fair amount of use on that 20 amp breaker.

>Check your local code for smoke/co2 detectors, arcfault circuit breakers and make sure to have neutrals in the switch locations.

In addition to the mentioned reasons to check code, you'll want to see code on how often to staple the wire, how much slack to leave, when to use pigtails in boxes (probably always!).

Also, whenever I'm doing significant reno work in a room and rewiring it, I try to put lighting and receptacles on different circuits. I'll do the lights first, and then I have nice bright overhead lights to work under when doing all the rest of the electrical.
Lastly; this is personal preference, but I like to use dimmable can lights with a non-lit fan because I'm tall and always duck under the fan even if I don't have to.

Thank you for the detailed response. I wish I could buy you a beverage of your choice

That looks like the move. Thanks!

Wonderful, thank you for the code specs

So I just pry that sucker off? It seems squishy, so I was hesitant to mess too much with it.

Thanks!

Thank you!

You are probably correct. Our house is "only" 50 years old, so things are only half as messed up. ;).

If it was me, (coming from a licensed electrician) I would wire the outlets and switches/lighting separately. Meaning one circuit home run for your outlets, and one circuit for your lighting. This way, when you go to inevitably open something up later on, you don’t have to kill all your lighting to service an outlet. Also you only really need 14/2 for your lighting, 12/2 for the outlets is normal. 3 wire for any 3 ways obviously.

At least 1/2in drywall with filled cracks all mudded and gaps filled. Foam or firecaulk applied where any plumbing or wires pass through the drywall.

Doors must be solid (20min fire rated)

All havc duct must be metal.

Edit: passage door from garage to the reast of the house should be 20 fire rated, and typically you want self closing hinges. (The hinges code has come and gone and come back again last i saw. It keeps out car fumes.)

Slab or peer -and-beam ?

A sheetrock wall can be a fire barrier if it's made properly. But you want to verify that it functions as such, both for insurance but also because you don't want to kill yourself/family.

Before you even consider touching it...are you sure? It could be the flapper just not catching the seal, and a slow stream of water slipping down the tube. Is the water in the bowl moving slightly? Fill it with a bucket of water and check for a leak...

Second, check your way backward, from the toilet to the main line. There could be another backup shutoff valve somewhere you're not familiar with.

If you don't have the slightest clue how to solder...figure it out before you get started.

That plumbing aisle is loaded with confusion for a greenhand...figure out what that pipe diameter is. Take a pic with a tape measure across it for security to hook up someone assisting you in the store.

Trigger start torch propane kit, solder, flux, pipe cutter, deburring tool, pipe brush, 2 adjustable wrenches, teflon tape, flexible toilet hose, valve, potentially a flapper kit (toilet guts), adjustable spanner wrench (I think it's called?), and I'm not 100% if that's all you need.

If you got a backup valve to work with...it looks like you could potentially pull that valve apart at the knob, and clear any blockages, before you even head out the door.

Oh, required or not, we have CO detectors in the stairway to the main floor and in the hallway between both bedrooms. I don't take that lightly. Before starting to work from the former workshop off the basement I also did a radon test, which thankfully came back very negative.

Thanks - see the new pics in the link in the edited post. Definitely source -> fixture -> switch now (I didn’t wire this).

Hey! Yeah, the previous owner did waterproof the basement by excavating down to the foundation on the outside and putting in french drains and such. Still, I make the rounds after every little rain (that's a lot of shoe leather!) and make sure the sump pump is working, too.

So buck up and offer it yourself. (Hint, you feed new copper or Pex to the location after pulling out the old. No biggie.).

Stop being a whiny complainer.

Thank you for your reply! So, to be sure I understand - when you say "They require a fire wall between any space with a roll up door. Or, you can have a garage door into your basement." what do you mean? The garage door of the house goes straight from the outside into the basement, although there is a wood frame with drywall separating the garage from the basement. I still kind of think of the garage as part of the basement despite the basic wall.

Got it. Thank you so much. The previous owner did have the outside waterproofed down to the foundation, so I'm not as concerned about that. But thank you for the input on the interior water dripping from the car.

>My concern is when the car is wet from rain and parking it inside on the raw concrete, which seems to absorb water.

A large absorbent 'oil change' mat in your parking space would solve this problem.

I also strongly recommend that (if your home isn't already required to have them) you consider adding carbon monoxide detectors to rooms that are connected to your garage space (like via a door, vent, ect.).

Definitely difficult to know from a single photo, but given the amount of copper acetate that’s showing, my gut says the pipe isn’t in good shape.

Dealing with similar stuff myself these days, and I’ve found that it’s best to yank and replace clean when encountering this kind of thing. 100-year old buildings are fun.

So reddits best advice offers no solution if things go wrong.

Seeing the tape on the pipe and everything else my inspection would start under the bathroom floor to determine what else may be lurking out of sight for leaks and damaged structure. Then if it looks decent I would start t working the problem upstairs. Then at some point I might call my brother-in-law for his opinion. He will show up, get down on his knees to look more closely, show his incessant plumbers crack and ruin my entire day. Lol.

I think that, once they remove that tape, they will know more. Maybe someone over-tightened the compression nut and then added the tape to cover the leak.

That is a different problem than a crack or corrosion hole in the pipe itself.