If it was me, I would do the standard 1 per wall unless you have a specific reason or intent to have more in that area. Maybe put 2, one on either side of the bed for nightstands on that wall like you generally have in a master bedroom. If you are only doing 5 or 6 total outlets then 1 circuit should be enough, but when I saw 8 outlets I figured this was going to be like a hobby room with workbenches or something where more power would be warranted.

Yah I guess I worry about heavy tools (table saw for example) and what they’d do rolling over luxury vinyl planks.. worry the seams would crack or something? Maybe I’m being paranoid… also wouldn’t the bottom of LVP be the rubbery/foam with no airflow and be same problem (or worse) than flooring with some gaps? Or does the rubber itself cause issue in the stall mats?

This 100%. I've been looking at the insulation kits and will install them.

Definitely didn't use a clear caulk. I'm able to pass a putty knife through to the other side. Yeah I know the pov/depth seems weird but it's just a view from the top of the door. I posted a wider shot for less confusion.

The only air coming out on the top is where the door gasket is not reaching the drywall. I'm 100% sure that the issue is a combination of air coming in through the door as well as the siding of the building.

I'll have to give that adjustment a try. Thanks

That's constructive.

could they have used a clear caulk? if it's passing light and it's a separation, a quality caulk will fix your issue.

I still don't know what I'm lookin at. the pov/depth of pic is weird. but you can always cut back more drywall to place more material, whether that's wood, foam, combination of, more drywall. if you're getting air, it should be patched somehow.

I'm not sure if you're having a building siding issue or door seal issue at this point. it sounds like you're not sure either and it's confusing me so Consider:

if what you're getting here is light through the flap gasket, your door likely needs adjusted. this is usually as simple as [with the door closed] loosening the track brackets on left and right side and pushing the tracks further towards the gap closing it, and making sure nothing rubs excessively, or that you don't go too far pushing the seal out worse. this is assuming your seal is still pliable and positioned correctly to begin with. you may need to get a track grease if it's a significantly tighter fit/ door wear. seals may need replaced.

4 on a 20a breaker seems like way overkill. Every other bedroom was wired with at least 6 on a 15a breaker. This bedroom though will be a guest bedroom so there won’t be much load anyways. I will probably switch it up and wire the lighting separate though as suggested.

I will need to google down-limit. Anything that has to do with adjusting a garage door freaks me out bc of that spring. What's odd is that the weather strip thats on there doesn't make full contact. There are also tons of cracks alongside the door that I will fill with caulk.

Your idea about doublesided carpet tape is brilliant! Thank you!

Replace the hose that goes from the valve to the tank as well if it looks old - cheap insurance.

Much appreciated. I'm still not sure why they carved that old drywall out. The gasket on the top of the door is making 90% contact but lets a lot of sunlight in so I'm at a loss on how to block that 1/16th of an inch properly without obstructing the door. I found two large holes leading to outside that I have filled with foam spray. I appreciate you taking a look!

Much appreciated. I am still confused as to why they sheared off so much of the old drywall. Thanks for the tips!

No one mentioned it, but 8 standard duplex outlets is A LOT to have on one 20A circuit as you have it drawn currently. You should also check local code and NECA because I'm mot even sure you can have that much potential load in a room designated as a bedroom. I would break that up into at least 2x circuits with 4 outlets each, and then run a shared circuit for the lighting in all areas as the electrician already noted. Worst thing would be to trip a breaker due to outlet overload or short and end up sitting in the dark sorting it out.

How about something that naturally does not support mold and mildew? Maybe luxury vinyl planks or tile? Quick, easy, cheap, and damn near bulletproof.

Do you have access from below? If so, I’d just run a new pipe from the basement to a new valve and supply line. The valve in the toilet tank could also have a lot of build up in it.

Also, get a water softener to prevent this issue from continuing.

Any other suggestions in place of these then? Traditional underpayment first then put the stall mats down? Or underlayment, osb, flooring best option?

From experience, even the ribbed versions can harbor mold and mildew. Just an FYI for you.

Yah it’s a dry basement which helps… but figured the raised bottom of stall mats leaves a little airflow to allow condensation to evaporate?

I’m staying away from the flat bottom rubber flooring because those must create a ton of moisture with it having no where to go.

Long as it remains dry, you will have a nice surface. If moisture is a problem, you may create a mold and mildew factory beneath those mats.

> A large absorbent 'oil change' mat in your parking space would solve this problem.

It won't magic the water away. Exactly the same amount of water will end up in the space whether the mat is there or not.

Could also do it room by room but unsure of how much space you are working with.

Yes I would wire the lighting together, barring any setbacks regarding overloading the circuit with too many lights. But if you’re going to wire it in 12 AWG then 1 20A circuit for those should be enough. Hard to imagine you’d have too many lights to trip a 20A breaker.

You are all gentlepersons and scholars. That did it, and my wife can--for at least one more day--remain unaware of the fact that she lives with a moron.

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Yep, just pry it out with your paper clip

It might even pop out with tweezers. Might need a tiny slot head mechanical screw driver to pry it out. It may be rubber and fit back in afterwards. Underneath may need an allen key or the same slotted screw driver. Watch over tightening to prevent the screw from scoring what it grasps onto, if the handle is difficult to turn you may need to buy a new cartridge for your faucet.