Have a metalworker make a new bar that mounts to the front wall (around that corner) and is bent to go back around the corner and then extend to where it needs to be.

Maybe using glue, duct tape, and 100s of rubber bands?

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I dunno that's usually how I fix/make things.

Not a bad idea, but not required from what i have seen in my state (idaho has lower standards generally, so im not surprised.)

I have never seen double layers of drywall.

Chances are that installing hardwood treads in place of the existing ones will throw off the height of the first and last steps. You should measure the height of these two in relation to the finished floor on both ends and then make a decision.

I personally like to install my treads on top of sub floor dummy treads. Alternatively, you can trim back the existing treads and go on top of those with a hardwood tread cap. Just remember to add screws to the old treads to stop them from squeaking.

add a door stop to the floor, this way that takes the full blunt of the gate instead of the latch

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-1-813-in-x-1-813-in-Universal-Low-rise-Stop/1000134189

Thanks, I'll go look at door a lot to see how they are trimmed. I can always learn by inspecting other peoples work

I have been trying and this subreddit isn't allowing me. may need to get a link

Garage ceilings require 2 layers of 5/8" if there is a living space above.

Code requires the bottom plate to be PT, so assuming it was done right and those walls weren’t built super long ago, it should be fine.

Remove the existing treads and install new risers and solid hardwood treads. You can use 3/4" MDF for the risers and use 3/4" MDF stringers as well to get a better finished job. Do it yourself and save $3000 and add to the homes value.

It is and you make you sound not too bright.

Either ask a question here or answer it but don’t whine. There are whole other reddit subs for that nonsense.

you make it sound pretty easy

Yep, lots of possibilities there.

Others have described the basic process. The only thing I can add is to purchase a good quality replacement valve. And that valve should be a 1/4 turn ball valve, not the one in your photo.

I would suggest a plumbing store and not a big box store.

I read somewhere I think it was NEC that you can only have five outlets/switches on a 15 amp breaker and eight on a 20 amp breaker.

I'm trying to see that as a compression valve.....lol Usually I see a few threads under the nut.

It's got to be tightened absolutely to the top of the threads, so maybe the copper isn't pushed through the brass ferrule? That could be causing the leak.

It almost looks like it has a cpvc cconnector on the bottom of the nut.

You're right, it is overkill, I outlined the load calcs in another comment.

A) There are no code limits to how many general use receptacles can be on a residential circuit. This is actually contentious, many people will say they must be calculated at 180VA, but the 180VA number is derived from calculations for non-residential feeder demand. I'm on the "It's not code enforceable" side of the fence, but I still size circuits at 180VA per receptacle. Basically, in my opinion, it's a design question, which is ostensibly outside of the scope of the NEC.

B) Let's say you do think it's code enforceable, cool, 180VA gets you max 13 receptacles per circuit. So, 8 is totally fine. If these are general receptacles with unknown loads. If you do know the loads, add those up and calculate 180VA for the rest of the receptacles that are general use. There's a little more that can go into it depending on the space and how it's being used, but generally speaking 8 on a 20 is perfectly fine.

C) NECA is the National Electrical Contractor's Association, the NEC is the National Electrical Code.

You have concerts drive ways . Foundations and roads that are raw and exposed to rain snow and salt ………….

Thanks idk why I didn’t think to try that. I was able to find dozens of options for less than 6 dollars and I found on that I’m going to check out today for 1.59 per square foot

Another thought to look at would be any interior door between the house and basement/garage area being a fire rated door. We had to change out the door from our garage and house to a fire rated model to meet code

So it warmed up from -40C to 0C this week (that's -40F to 32F for the folks in the US)...and what do you know - there's a pool of water bubbling up from the middle of the street! Definitely a leak somewhere in the city system and causing air/noise/pressure to travel up my copper service and bang in the house. Excavators coming later this week! :)

I'm still going change out my old valve for a new ball valve, but don't think I'll need the PRV/arrestor after the city's fix is done.

post a pic. Without seeing how the crack is formed you can't know if it is part of a bigger problem

Process of elimination. Shut the valve off. Loosen the supply line a little bit. If water comes out it's not the valve. That being said I'd change the valve and the line anyway they don't look to be in good shape

I have found (so far) that the backing on the Lifeproof luxury vinyl planks does not seem to support either mold nor mildew. Fingers crossed.