You want to coat over it and sand, same amount of mess but like 45% less work overall

Yes this can also happen to porcelain coffee and tea cups when stirred with a metal spoon. The same fix works.

That's not popcorn it will not scrape off. Sand it down then skim the ceiling out

[removed]

Pumice stone

Um I have done a lot of basement bathrooms on newer houses that had all these "rough ins" That is what they are Rough ins for a bathroom.

Problem is they are never where the home owner wants the bathroom so we end up jack hammering the floor up to move all the pipes.

If you are good with the layout then building a bathroom is easy. But if you want to move shit then busting concrete is in your future

One rule off rough framing. Bigger is better. It's easier to add then subtract.

Eg: When I frame a door opening for say a 30 inch x 80 inch door the RSO (rough stud opening) is 2 1/2 wider and 2 1/2 inches higher. This gives you room to shim your door jambs perfect.

The number one fails I see of DIY is trying to frame RSO tight. Not how it's done.

Now bi folds can be a little tricky. Follow the instructions for your finished opening but the concept is the same

Appreciate the use of turlet.

what is under that floor?

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/outdoor-hardware/gate-and-fence/latches/74567-ozco-gate-latch?item=01S1525

You've got the cheapest of the cheap latch set there, that's sort of sub optimal because the wee latch bar bears all of the slam when it closes.

Get something like this, a way better design that addresses all the wee one's shortcomings.

I don't know if this gate swings both ways but I think you should have the arm on the gate and the latch on the wall

Replace it, use the brand owned by the dog in The Wizard of Oz.

Yes to screws.

[deleted]

I use Atack fiberglass drywall repair tape.

Works for me, there are lots of options though.

You can replace it for around $150. No need for an expensive thing to shit in. As long as its got a good flush is what matters.

If you were to pay someone to do a hardwood stair case you would pay well in excess of $3K.

Gate needs a 'slam stopper'. Someone suggested a door stop at the bottom (trip hazard) - which would stop some of the force of closing.

What you need is angle or some vertical strip that the gate arrests closure against...and the only force the latch has to deal with is the impact of the bar itself, rather than arresting the momentum of the weight of the gate (slammed, wind, or just spring/weight closure)...it's a lot of leverage that gets applied over and over.

Once you deal with stopping the gate in other ways re-securing the latch is easy enough.

Edit: other solutions are:

Soft closer for the gate. They make hydraulic and spring closers that close the gate more slowly. This can also be as simple as a string connected to the gate and the opposite side with a weight in the middle.

Depending on aesthetics it could be as simple as a chunk of wood between wall and the latch bar. You'd need to use fasteners into better attachment points - but there is likely only 1 stud in there (which you've hit with the farther 2 screws presently). This horizontal wood would help with the problem...but not really 'solve' it...as the screws are resisting the force in tension - and screws work best in sheer. You'd also need a chunk the same thickness at the gate latch to keep the gate at the same closed position.

The surfacing is likely ~3/4-5/8" thick...a better latch bar with a longer attachment plate would help - but you still have the problem with screws needing to 'grab' something. There are better fasteners - such as metal 'screw in style' drywall auger type attachments. Also butterfly clips would be good too - except that at the end of the stucco - as you already know - nothing out there to grab on to. But always if the force is applied in tension you'll just delay the problem - which is why I suggested a slam stopper. Typically this would be a 1x1-1/2 angle with the short end sticking out and the screws penetrating deep enough to embed into the stud - the longer the angle and the more screws the more the energy of the gate closing would be spread out.

If you're willing to move the gate in farther (away from camera location) you could just have a latch coming straight out the wall.

But really...as this is inside - I think using 'standard' gate hardware isn't the right solution. I'd look into other forms of 'latching'...and I suspect the goal is to keep either kids or animals out of the area...does it need latching at all?

This makes me think that the treads were sized correctly so that when they're finished, all the rise heights are the same. Make sure you check your local building code for proper rise/run requirements. There should also be acceptable values for overhang. Most treads that I've seen at the store have a little overhang built in. That way you install the treads, then risers, and everything falls into place. Disclaimer, I haven't actually done this project yet.

Proof that there's a woman somewhere out there for every man.

If you feel that the glaze is scratched, then the damage is permanent. In my case I had used a metal snake on my toilet and it left lots of grey metal marks on the bowl as I did not position the rubber protector properly for use. I thought my fix would be to replace the toilet. As a last resort, I got out my Bar Keepers Friend liquid, emptied the water from the bowl, and scrubbed the marks with a non- metallic abrasive pad. A bit of scrubbing and all the marks disappered. You may try this and see if it improves your toilet. Maybe the scratches are only on the surface. Good luck!

I do this for a living in the greater Seattle area, even a polished or just generally sealed concrete will go miles to improving the longevity of your concrete. At the very least, get yourself a product called lumiseal fx, 200 bucks for 5 gallons, and apply two coats after cleaning and scrubbing the floor. Will repel water and oil and any other contaminants your tires may pickup. Epoxy coatings are on the more expensive end. What I mentioned takes max 3 hours to do and apply, and can drive on it next day

Toilets are easy to replace, especially if you have a helper guiding you as far as positioning goes.

I wouldn't recommend cheaping out on a toilet, this is one area where expensive is better (to a point). $100-$150 per toilet is a good starting budget here in the Midwest USA.

Longer screws and also angle the screw on the corner inwards so it hits the beam.

Its easier to replace the turlet. You would have to reglaze the toilet. Which I doubt anyone does.