First thing to consider if you want to remove this whether it was painted or not. It most likely was versus popcorn, which usually is not. Spray it with some water from a spray bottle and see if it softens and scrapes off easily. If yes, you are in luck, continue. If it was painted, scrape best you can, then skim coat.

Here's some unsolicited advice. It worked very well for us when we had younger kids who destroyed everything.

Put these up, and use black iron pipe as the curtain rod. It's cheap, it's strong, and it looks good/rustic.

https://www.draperyrodsdirect.com/kirsch-wrought-iron-3-1-2-inch-return-bracket?gclid=CjwKCAjwg4-EBhBwEiwAzYAlsgaHscod9LTbAVhv-HJSHpr3KdHoKqhqi6E3HCRgy_5dJ2cm82dpiRoCBqQQAvD_BwE

Not sure why you need it to be universal. Those things are pretty much only good for a weird-shape nut that's partially rounded and not on very tight. (Read: they really don't have a use)

They do make ratcheting wrenches, or these "universal depth" sockets. Which honestly worked pretty well on a job site once. Carrying 2 dozen wrenches is a pain, so a socket set that can handle a 4' deep all-thread is great.

Pass-thru Socket set

I'm coming around to the "this is supposed to be here" possibility. What sub would you post to get folks thoughts on what this might be for?

Any chance you can just wedge something in there and turn the head of the bolt?

Do you have a picture of the nut? Maybe some ratcheting wrenches.

The bolt is too long to get to the nut.

Honestly, everything else about the house is very well done so it does seem odd that they would get that sloppy here. There is some rubble and a bit of moisture in the photo. It's possible that rodents dug the rubble out but the moisture is from a leaking hot water heater (this has distracted my DIY energy over the Christmas break [I actually made a hilarious "lazy river" with vapor barrier that flows into a bin and an auto-siphon to drain it outside so we could have showers and dishwasher over the holiday]. All to say that moisture is coming from a know source.

Haven't tried a screw at all. I made the hole with a bit and haven't tried putting in the screws yet

Toto is the way to go. Always.

Actually, you may want to run a 2x4 or something else like that instead of drywall, since it appears to be fully exposed to the outside.

Maybe this door is slightly shorter than the old one was?

I was wondering about that.. lt wouldn't drain anything out of the basement, based on its position. It's not between 2 structures (is is part of an addition, but that was done at once). Maybe there is an air gap necessary when they put down the vapor barrier and concrete over the bedrock? Perhaps to let air in so that water underneath can drain away?
[edit: grammar]

You should just go to your hardware store and get the anchors that screw in. These things suck.

I used hot glue instead of epoxy, but yes.

A water softener will cost you way less over the long run, but it's a decent initial investment

Sorry for delay. It's up

Strands epoxied in place at the holes on top of the headliner then trimmed off underneath? Never mind missed that you explained it already.

bracket anchors

I just hung up two rods I drilled till it fit. Was harder once I hit something. But it worked.

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It makes a hell of a difference!

I’m thinking you hit a metal stud. Use a small bit first then the bigger one to go deeper

Have you tried using a slightly longer screw without the anchor? You can definitely tell when screwing into wood versus drywall with nothing behind it. Wood will feel firm and secure.

won't just covering half the nut work?

>What would be the simplest and also most cost-effective solution to this puzzle?

I think the simplest and cost-effective route would be to install rough risers between the stringers (to maintain the overhang) and then just plop down some nice carpet.