Dimming switches are a good one always, USB receptacles placed in bedrooms and on counters, fan timer switches for bathroom fans, occupancy sensors for different rooms, caseta and pico brand switches for wireless lighting controls, always rough in for TV and data receptacles, soffit receptacles for Christmas lights, switched outdoor lighting receptacles.

Most importantly, a receptacle that is designated for electric vehicle charging. Some places actually require this by code.

There's millions of opportunities when looking at smart home electrical systems. The only question is where to stop lol

Nope.

Drywall screws to screw the wood to the stud, paper to level out so that the door catches on the door frame and not on the latch.

It doesn't need to be more than that.

So just drive at night

Straight up Amazing!

Welcome! Good luck!

I had no idea about that last bit. At most the holes are 1" from the frame. I think I'll start over tmrw. Thank you so much for all the info!

Take both parts of the latch off.

Screw a longer section of wood vertically to the wall with long screws, ideally you can get that into the stud if not use some construction glue to help.

Cut a small section of this wood the same thickness and put it on the door, under the catch, and mount the latch to the wood on the wall. Both of them are reinforced, and moved the same amount away from the wall/door

Sometimes, something can get stuck hard enough that even the “Allen wrench solution” won’t fix. In those cases, I take a butter knife and put inside the disposal try to rake the inside of it, making sure to hit every surface area possible. Then use metal tongs to try and fish out if there’s any small pieces that loosen up. I then use said butter knife and try to spin the blades by pushing on them in either direction to help “unbind” the motor.

If this doesn’t fix it, then yeah, it’s probably permanently seized and you’d need a new one.

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Yes it's totally safe to drill into a metal stud. You'll need a drill bit for metal though to make the pilot hole, it will be made of cobalt (or titanium if you go premium). And you'll need a metal toggle bolt instead of a basic drywall anchor. But to backtrack a little bit, all your holes should be a minimum of 4 inches from the window frame, if that changes things at all.

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As a renter I recommend command hooks rather than drilling.

I would cover the concrete with a water barrier

It's called a floating floor for that reason - the entire area of vinyl plank can slide around a little bit. The usual way to deal with the gap at the edges is to use baseboard trim.

Dunning-Kruger effect is out in full force I see

Depends which hot glue is used. Durotak is commonly used in automotive. If that fails then polyurethane version will last forever. Nice work!

Someone just answered me elsewhere, then my whole post got deleted before I could respond...they suggested I get a non-contact voltage tester....well, I already have one!!! I thought that only tested outlets or to see if there was a hot wire where I'm about to drill, etc!

Can I really use that instead of touching the wires with my multimeter?

I know, and the thread is DIY. Confounding AF. Less work.

Drain, clean, fill gaps/cracks with repair paste, sand, prime (latex acrylic spray), paint (acrylic enamel), topcoat. Let dry, don't refill the water for 24 hours. Old dingy toilet looks new.

I actually do have alligator clips that came with my soldering iron...will that make it safer? Is the rubber what makes it safer?

If so, would using rubber gloves work the same way? My boyfriend got me a pair to use when working with electricity that I ALWAYS use when splicing or soldering things!

See, I do this kind of thing quite frequently....usually I can find a Youtube video to find out how to do something, but then I usually just run everything by my bf like hey I'm planning to do this, any issues or suggestions? However, I wasn't able to find exactly what I was looking for on Youtube & my bf is not being cooperative tonight so that's why I am turning to the Reddit Gods!!! I appreciate your time & help! :)

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First turn your multimeter to “Volts” mode usually signified by a V, next assuming your multimeter is normal connect your black lead to wire A and the red lead to wire B. If the output voltage is positive (+) then wire A is negative and wire B is positive, if the output voltage is negative then vice versa

Also 99.99% of the time is that black wires are usually negative but I know you wanted to be sure! And you guys are both right so don’t argue over this type of stuff lol, you just are kinda scared and you want to be sure, and he is probably a little frustrated, have a good evening!

There are tutorials online that deal with multimeters orrr get yourself a Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester from Lowes or similar ORRR hire a professional. Please be safe Op! Good luck!

Also if you have an outlet with an RCD I would use that.