My guy, it's basically touching the ceiling and you have nothing underneath preventing it from being placed properly lol

>Durotak

TIL that this isn't a region on the east coast of Kalimdor.

That would make it a bit higher, my problem ist just the angle, the spacing and so on from Tv is pretty spot on, and I even need the small gap there because of upfiring speakers :)

It’s not attached to ceiling :D and it’s a pretty big Tv so putting it “normally” 20cm from ground or so just looks dumb… :) so nope, it looks great now :)))

What about spacers on the screw on the bottom?

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That’s still something :) thanks for the input ! :) maybe someone else here comes with a genius plan :)) I’m not in hurry, but the sound kinda goes down so I’m not using the whole potential here :)

Yes, the angle brackets would be tricky to duplicate a precise bend. Other than a vise with both clamped in at the exact angle is about the only thing that I can think of.

Im not sure if it’s a good idea. The Tv is really heavy, and the mounting brackets are connected to the ones that hold Tv so I would definitely have to remove the Soundbar before I’m trying to bend something, if it was a 500$ Tv then no problem :D but with this beast, kinda not willing to risk that. And if I remove them, then there comes the problem with equally bending to the right angle…

I'm looking at the new pictures, and it looks like you could grab the soundbar right where those angled mounting brackets are with both hands and bend it up, maybe?

https://imgur.com/a/J2Jr0wk :)

How are they mounted to the soundbar? With screws? On the bottom?

Thought about that, they are kind a strong :D so to bend them equally and the right amount its pretty hard…

What year was yours? If it’s post 89 it’s very unlikely. That said not a bad idea to check.

Can't you just bend the brackets that are holding it now?

Yep! That’s the plan. Definitely doesn’t look painted, it’s porous as hell so here’s hoping.

I believe from your description that this is the premise: You attached a plastic box above the front of a fireplace in a way that is attached from behind to the exhaust vent / flue. You've observed that this installation results in the plastic box becoming heated when the fire is burning, and you'd like suggestions for how to not have the plastic box heat up while the fireplace is burning.

Option 1 -- most effective and less material involved: Remove the plastic box from above the fireplace, and put it somewhere that it is not exposed to a heat source. Depending how you mounted the box above the fireplace, this may involve minor repairs like patching holes.

Option 2 -- more involved, less effective: Remove the plastic box from the initial mounting and wrap the box in thick fireproof insulation before remounting. Also, install a fireproof shield/deflector panel horizontally below the plastic box above the opening of the fireplace. This will reduce the amount of heat that comes from the flue behind the plastic box and from the opening of the fireplace below the plastic box. However, wrapping the box in thick fireproof insulation will also significantly reduce the ability of the box to be cooled by ventilation. This means that even though the amount of heat getting to the box will be reduced, the amount of heat that can escape the box will also be reduced -- so you may still experience overheating effects if the box is exposed to heat for a long period of time.

Think about toast in an oven -- it will char black in a short time at high temperature, but it will also char black if left a longer time at a lower temperature.

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Woah, pump there breaks there. If you plan on selling after the reno or even shorty afterwards, do not go nuts with the smart devices. You could spend thousands of dollars that you probably won't get back and depending on who buys it, probably won't use most of it.

I would limit myself to USB receptacles in bedrooms and kitchens, maybe hard wire security cameras. Beyond that, understand that you are doing it for yourself and probably won't get your money back out of it.

I have no advice whatsoever, just came by to say thank you for the use of the word "blorp" made my morning to say it outloud!

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You can pull the rubber guard out from the drain opening and look down inside with a flashlight. It doesn't take much to wedge the blades, especially if the foreign object is just the right size. Typically you will find things stuck under the blade or between the blade edge and the side wall. I have a long pair of needle nose pliers that are curved at the end that I use all the time for this. Good luck.

Wow, for Rolls-Royce $2k is cheap, especially if the description is accurate.

> First, the leather is perforated with 800 to 1,600 holes, each carefully counted. Fibre optic lights are set into these holes. The craftsperson then ensures that the height of the fibres is correct on the concealed side, and that they’re set perfectly on the visible leather surface, ready to shine.

I put in no where near that effort, I just set 'em and forget em' and used a pair of nail clippers to get them aligned with the headliner.

Dang. $500 and all your labor! Rolls Royce charges $2000 for this option according to Google which sounds...shockingly reasonable.

I have solved this at my place. Add a piece of angle iron to your gate so when the gate closes it hit the iron nice and flush, and the latch only touches just enough to close.

This is kid and wind proof.

https://imgur.com/a/g7Zt2IC