This was pretty much what stopped me fitting an exterior socket. I was looking at fitting one so that I could place the lights exactly as I wanted without having to run leads into my garage and to also make placing the lights with stupidly short leads easier.

However, when I looked into it every single outside socket had very small covers/boxes that were only designed to take a basic plug, with some apparently not really fitting those very well, and not a single one was big enough to take the transformer normally found on Christmas light plugs.

The only solution I found was what's been posted, to fit an exterior socket, plug an extension lead into that then use one of those outdoor boxes to house the extension and plug the lights into that, but doing all that was going to lead to more wires and things looking messier than just doing it the way I've done previously.

It's a stipple or stomp ceiling. Achieved by dipping a sponge or brush into drywall mud and creating a repeating pattern all over the surface.

As others have said, wear proper ppe, and wet a test area and see if it softens to scrape most of it off. If not, rent a sander and dust extracter and sand it down. You'll likely have to sand either way to get a consistent paintable finish

Don’t let the haters get to you. I’ve mounted my TVs high for decades now and it’s wonderful. When I’m laying in bed or sitting in my recliner I don’t want to have to look at the floor.

I’m also with the other guy. Just grab the sound bar and bend. You’ll be fine.

You beat me to it. If OP needs this urgently, you can buy them in Wickes, B&Q and Wilkos, often bundled with an extension lead.

put your fans at the top but as exhaust fans, i.e. they are sucking the hot air out of the cabinet. Mount with bolts and nuts with locking washers.

make some holes at the bottom of the rear panel, to draw in the cool air when the fans are running

as to how to cut, drill a hole then use a fine toothed jigsaw

It all depends on the source/cause of the'hard water'. Ask folks in your area?

For your threshold you can get a bigger threshold, it may not match the vinyl plank perfectly but you can get something that closely matches it or at least something that looks good with it. Any home improvement or flooring stood should have a good variety of thresholds that are wider.

As for the second image, that gap it too wide for any sort of caulk and the best way to deal with it is to get thicker molding or staged molding using multiple pieces to build it out thicker.

I haven’t had good success scraping or sanding this stuff. When I remodeled my last kitchen, we just ripped down the whole sheets of drywall and put a new ones up.

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We had the same thing at our house. We ended up having new drywall put up over it. You can't scrape that stuff off, it is added on drywall mud not popcorn.

I've never installed ventilation in a cabinet, but I would drill a bunch of holes in a circular pattern similar to how it looks on the back of some computers. Drill a few more for the mounting holes and use screws to mount the fans. If you don't have a drill, you should be able to cut particle board with a utility knife.

She literally said in her post she tried the Allen wrench and stripped the fitting

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Right on, good advice. dimmers and USB outlets vs switches and standard receptacles are like 30-40x more expensive. You are talking thousand plus for whole house.

Don’t know anybody who said they paid more for a house based on this.

It says “…built in the 1930s…” so I expect code was different then.

Use something like this along with a short extention lead. You definitely need to be able to close the plug flap.

True, they also have them in an A shape but I could always lift the chairs over the bar if necessary. Either way I’ll probably go for the A shape bars as they’re cheaper. I also probably should’ve specified my idea of the price instead of cheap.

Thank you for the suggestion!

Those would probably work great for stability but the requirement for them to be toward the ends of the table for balance might prohibit you from sliding chairs in and out.

Also, not cheap.

My complicated plan is to screw a plank onto the wall and mount the striker onto this..

Sorry I broke your brain because I wrote latch instead of striker.

The 2ft plank will disburse impact joules across a big surface so it will protect the sheetrock. And it's 2 ft because you'll find a stud within 2 ft to mount it to.

The plank adds material the strikerscrews can firmly grip. But the width of the added material will make it impossible for latch to catch striker since striker will now stop 1 plank width in front of latch.

So you inversely mount striker so that striker bends towards latch and therefore negates added material.

This is why you picked out plank width same as height difference between striker bend and striker mountpad

Carve out the curvature of the striker mount if you need the catching point to be exactly the same as before.

Add folded paper underneath plank if you need to make outwards micro adjustments to the catching moment.

The goal of the adjustments are to make the weight of the door slam into the doorframe, not the striker.

Rusty screws are not a problem because it's inside. Paper shims will not soak up water it's inside. (OP said it's inside the house and there's carpetted stairs in the picture ffs)

Screws will not snap off since I adviced to adjust the catching moment of striker in such a manner that the doorframe catches the door, not the striker.

Would getting a set of wide, sturdy metal feet like this help? Or would that not be sturdy enough in particle board?

https://i.imgur.com/tH6R50Z.jpg

Easiest and cheapest way I can think of is to scrap those legs in favor of some screwed together/laminated 2x4s and a can of spray paint to match the table color.

It’s not to high :) longboard and such, tried, don’t like the look and it was like 10-15 cm lower so almost no difference there, and since I’m using it also in different directions and so on, it’s the best placement :) still, I didn’t quite get You’re idea about washers, what You’ve meant with that ?

And that means that I didn’t try to look at it on a Tv longboard ? :D it’s around 30cm from ceiling :)

Huh wouldn’t washers in the bottom work? Maybe metal angles to keep the back down?

But wouldn’t the most reasonable solution be to just place the TV on a lowboard? It’s mounted way too high anyway and you do seem to have enough space below.