why is it wobbly?

are the legs firmly attached to the desk? are the points where they screw in, intact. because if this in not the case, whatever brackets you put on to firm it up, is still a temporary fix.

if no start there - screws can be reset ect, youtube superglue hacks to find out how to strengthen screw holes

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/zhEmMMLsR0Y

so if the legs are firmly attached i would use 1/4 " all-thread (threaded rod) and make a diagonal cross brace from leg to leg

drill holes thru the legs using the hex nuts to hold each side , that will triangulate them. you could put the bars low to the ground or higher up.

you are going to need nuts on both sides of the legs, so 8 nuts.

if you want to get crafty with it you could use some sort of tube to sleeve over the all thread. this would help by creating opposing forces.

shopping list.

2 pcs of 1/4-20 threaded rod long enough for the diagonal 8 pcs 1/4-20 nuts. maybe acorn nuts on the outside of the leg, hex nuts for the inside

optional sleeve, could be pvc or emt or copper tube (hard not soft) big enough diameter to hide the nut inside

that's my fix.

Reattach the legs with PL and whatever is currently holding it. Cheap easy way you can do it for a cheap table. Every other suggestion is too much investment and time for something made of chip board.

Stiple.

plastic bag over a sponge or float would create the effect.

It's kind of a bore well for housing community. They are planning to switch to city's water which is much better but it's kind of slow process. There's also a castor oil mill nearby, could it be polluting the soil?

Haha it's gonna get even more hard. My pipes are gonna be full of sediments.

Just buy new one. There like 100$ or less.

Thanks for the advice. What do you think of something like this. I'm not sure if it would work or not.

Thanks. I've looked into softeners but they are a bit costly where I live and I'm not planning on living here more than a year or two. So looking for sort of short term solution.

As others have said, exhaust rather than intake.

Use a 230MM exhaust fan to pull as much out as possible, and if you’re willing, add two small 50MM case fans to create intake at the bottom.

You could also stick a bowl of cold stones near a natural air intake to the cabinet during gaming sessions.

Additionally, if there’s a way to command the Xbox fans to run at a constant speed rather than ramping when needed, it will allow for a more continuous temp control.

Remove existing legs. Buy some metal hairpin legs and install them

I hadn’t realized how bad it is for your hair! I only shampoo every few days to stay healthy, but that stuff just soaked up all the oil in my hair like dry shampoo and ruined years of work lol

Gey yourself a red squirrel. Much easier.

You can remove the rubber drain and use the handle of a hammer to back the blades up and release what has it locked.

I've had to do it dozens of times. Old apt handyman.

Wow that TV is mounted quite high. You might want to consider moving it down so that it doesn't need to be tilted, thus solving your speaker bracket issue at the same time.

Ooh, those legs are pretty bad for a desk. And given the shape of the legs that wouldn't give you much material to add cross braces near the bottom. But if you want to give it a go I'd just Google desks in general and copy their cross bracing.

That is the plan, do a test patch with a scraper and a sander.

Definitely hasn’t been painted, I was able to chip a piece off and you can tell the surface is the exact same as the interior, I’m REALLY hoping it sloughs off with spray and scrape, I have a lot of health complications that get exacerbated by using a sander so I’d need to hire someone if that happens

And yeah I don’t need a perfect flat, if I can get it something like this, I’ll be completely happy with it, cuz that will look nice with a coat of paint over

Oh yeah, drywall dust is the worst! I've found those vacuums that attach to the sanders are very effective. Good luck!

It matters if it's been painted or not. If painted it will be that much more difficult. Try a couple test patches to try to determine if you can get it moist. I ended up scraping both painted and unpainted.

I watched a few YouTube vids ("that kilted guy" has some good ones) before scraping my house. You will also want to be prepared to re-mud and fix damage to the Sheetrock as you'll inevitably do. If you expose sheetrock paper, use the pro-99 stuff before trying to mud or paint over it or you'll be chasing bubbles in your mud.

Another option is to rent one of those porter cable sanders that connects to a shop vac. It won't totally eliminate the texture, but it might knock it back enough that it's virtually unnoticeable. In any case protect yourself from breathing any of that crap.

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Yep! Luckily my in laws actually own a great sander for this project, we built out a basement suite in their house with all new drywall and it was well up to the task, so if the scraper method doesn’t take, I’m in good shape. I just try to avoid sanding at all costs because I have asthma and even with PPE the dust gets to me.

This. Remake the legs.

I use a couple 120v computer style fans plugged into a 12v activated relay plug strip. When my audio receiver is turned on, it turns the fans on. Can also put them on a traditional resistive dimmer to slow them down for noise if needed.

It also says the walls are drywall, which was around, but not widely used at all in the 1930’s.

For the rear 2 legs you could do an X crossbrace between them. Metal, and you can use tools to bend it to the shape of the legs. Connect in the center where they cross for additional stability.

For the front 2 legs, consider using flat metal straps and screw in to the bottom of the legs; no bar to raise the chairs over, just a small metal strip.

If my ideas don't make sense, LMK.

Something else to check: the switch that powers it. If you flip the switch and don’t hear the motor trying to turn, and you’ve already found the power reset on the disposal, it’s worth checking the switch VERY CAREFULLY with a multi-meter. Switches can wear out with use over time (I’ve had this happen 3 or 4 times with disposals and light switches).