We got ours at ikea. 5 years in it’s been fine. I installed a Krause stainless for my mom that we bought on Amazon. My only tip, if you go stainless spend for a thicker gauge steel. It “feels” much more quality than the thinner sinks.

The A-shaped ones... if they come to a point at the top, you'll probably want some plywood squares(like 1' or more) to help distribute the table weight. I wouldn't trust particle board to hold a table in two places.

That is plan A for sure! I’m still getting moved in and settled, but figured I’d lay the groundwork for long term projects

Not uncommon, as you said it's called a farmhouse sink, full countertop depth. The sink would have a cutout for a faucet in the back typically.

Edit: Many farmhouse sinks are white porcelain. While they certainly look nice, I would personally recommend to stay away from porcelain. Stains too easily and you have to be careful not to drop a heavy pot or pan.

You want something rigid enough that it won't bend under mild stress; pipe hanger metal might. More like flat bar (hardware stores sell that too).

I was thinking something similar, maybe a strip of metal with holes like pipe hanger for the back and a shelf bracket for the front.

My quick solution is to fold up some paper, and stick it under the shorter leg. Keep adding until no wobble.

I read it. https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf3/63/6290/628923-heatilator/ndv3630.pdf?6b60127bf4ecc80a902931d0f624ef3a It’s really unclear to me what the clearance is.

Yes. Search for apron front sink with backsplash.

What code is that? Regarding it being metal? The plastic box probably more than 4” away from the flue.

There should be no transition between rooms when doing same floating floor throughout. Since you have a transition the best you can do now is to clean up all the caulk and fasten the transition directly to your subfloor. I would recommend finishing nails in center, so that nails don't hit the actual floor planks. You want that transition to be fastened without nailing the floor. There is no need to caulk any floating floor, so i would clean off as much if the caulk as i can. The second picture you should just trim out using a baseboard or even a 1x4 primed finish board then you can install quarter round or shoe moulding against the floor. Again, only nail trim to walls not the floor to keep the floating aspect. If you nail down floor with trim you might see some buckling/separation of planks as they expand/contract.

Pulled a dime out of our disposal. The SO has no idea how it got there.

Check the manual for your fireplace ? It will list all clearances and requirements

EVERY ROOM in our 1994 constructed house was treated this way (AKA stippling, and yes, even inside the closets). We had some renovations done two years ago, and found it was cheaper to drywall over than to scrape or sand it off. Sanding creates a huge mess, and is labor intensive. And scraping not only creates a mess, but you can accidentally gouge the drywall, even when the scraper edges are rounded off. So add those repair costs into the scraping labor, and the price and time increase. Two drywall professionals installed 1/4" gypsum board, mudded, and sanded the areas we had done in less than two days.

Yeh exactly what we have. Dribox with short extension. Also means we can plug multiple things into the one plug if we choose.

Get a long enough ratcheting strap and tighten it around the 4 legs near the top. Don't over tighten it but just tight enough that it's holding the 4 legs inward. Should remove the wobble

It's how it is done. You take drywall mud, and you mix it with water. Take a mop looking device and put it into the bucket, then put it onto the ceiling. Then pull down.
Another way is to use a sponge. Another way is to use a tile grout float. It was a fairly common texture technique.

Gosh that's high. I honestly still prefer tv stands and use them because I don't want to hurt my neck looking up. Also that wire would drive me insane. The speaker looks fine from here relative to the tv.

> This is outdoors.

It is not.

Carve a drain along the edge so water has a way to escape.

Get a standing squegy so you can push the water out.

I believe by code it should be a metal enclosure and not be more than 3-4” close to the flue…?

Liberally spray with water, scrape, sand to level, apply skim coat (watered down drywall compound to the consistency of yogurt), sand, apply skim coat to any problem areas, sand, paint

I have done this all over my house to great success. No reason to think it wouldn’t work for you.

Ikea sells cheap table legs that you could replace with: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/cat/legs-trestles-11845/

I used 2 of the Tillslag for a desk, and I really like them.

If you know that the table won't be moving, you could add some brackets like this to the studs: https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-steel-shelf-brackets-black-finish

Check out IKEA. They sell legs separately for their tables and desks. You may find a set that matches.

The easiest way I can think of would be to head to Ikea and buy 4 of their white desk legs. Would cost about $15-20, and comes with all the hardware.