I’ve seen this pop up on Reddit all the time. People like to believe there is a scientifically exact place your TV should be. But I don’t sit on my grandmas old hard couch when I watch tv and I like to put my knees up when I’m in my recliner. So if I put it where Reddit demands I put it, I can’t see it.

But apparently I’m the one that’s wrong. 🤷‍♂️

I mean it was built in 93 and I think the ceilings actually even newer than that. They’re already low ceilings, I done want to lose anymore space. I’ll probably get a sample tested but I don’t have concerns about asbestos at all tbh

Re: the asbestos comments… Can you just screw new drywall over top of it so you don't have to deal with it at all?

Well i just don’t get why people spend their time saying that :D I’m definitely not changing that :))) But well its the Internet ? :D Still thanks for the input ! :)

Thanks for the help :)

Thanks for the help :)

I’ve always been taught to install enclosure fans blowing into the cabinet with the idea that you’re slightly pressurizing it and therefore dust isn’t being drawn into it through the seams. Genuinely curious what the reason you’ve heard for the opposite?

[removed]

I see you're in India! I'm not sure how that product works but the reviews look promising? The hard water softeners I was talking about rely on city water coming into your house under pressure. Not a tank system that needs to be filled. So I really don't know for your case. But as long as it removes calcium and magnesium it'll make the water soft.

So your best bet is examining the attachment at the leg and table interface. It was 'strong' once...and could be made to be so again. Reinforcement inside the table could solve the problem. But as you only provided photos of the exterior hard to determine.

The fact that it's up against a wall...presumably 'permanently' you do have the option to attach the table itself to the wall. This would transfer some/most pushing force into the wall instead of the legs.

Reinforcing the legs could just require gussets. Imagine a flat piece of wood triangular shaped going from leg to table. This would allow the table to be used as normal and spread out the loads applied due to leverage.

For 'x bracing' you've got to make some decisions. You can 'box' the legs by using horizontal devices across the floor - but you already addressed this in another comment.

For decisions do you remain 'in tension' or attempt to solve both compression and tension? In tension means x bracing...which can be done with wire and/or flat metal strips. They'll resist pulling but not pressing thus requiring an X. They don't necessarily have to go all the way down either - but the height you're at any crossing elements will obstruct seated usage - and possibly seat storage. But wire cross bracing can be as simple as screw in eyelets and wire with wrapped ends - or as complex as wire rope with thimbles and wire rope clips.

If you can manage legs in the center across each long end that would also transfer the push/pull energy differently.

You could also criss cross from diagonal legs. It would make the underside look cluttered but would be less disruptive to seating and storage use - this still would require the wall side legs to be criss crossed laterally too.

The best solutions will involve forces being applied to screws in sheer and not tension. Depending on the leg material you could cross with strips of metal from bottom flat (underside) of leg to the opposite.

But seems like your wisest solution would be to replace the legs - which you're seemingly wanting to lean toward anyway.

Really this boils down to what you wish to spend and how aesthetic you want it to look.

You could also pocket hole screw holes into the legs and add hard wood 'washers' inside the table - going through the particle board and into the chunk of hardwood/washer (with glue) - but as I can't see the inside no way to see how easy/economical that would be.

Also - for whatever you choose to do...start with cardboard and fiddle with the shape referencing from leg to underside. Angles aren't impossible to work with...and the curved surface means either grinding/filing a convex for greater glue surface or going with attachments with less glue interfacing.

[removed]

I use command hooks but have found lately that with summer tempetures getting warmer the glue fails.

Finally someone who actually knows when to cut losses….More than 5$ and they might as well put it towards a new table.

I feel like we are venturing into the spend more fixing vw buying better stuff to begin with…he will still have a Frankenstein ikea abomination. Id just put rubber cement on the legs and a washer on the top and of that did not work id buy a cheap used desk and refinish it

It’s ikea/ poly board…the issue starts being where it is bolted…honestly get some strong glue /sealant and put it in the joints after you unscrew them and then put it back together…doing much more is a waste you are better just getting a stronger table .

Krause makes some good sinks, have their undermount and it's a solid 10/10

If the particle board is an issue you can replace the screws on the hairpin legs with bolts, nuts and washers and the extra surface area of the washer and ability to apply tension to the bolts will lock them in nice and tight.

Edit: Hairpin legs are popular right now and it'll make the table look higher quality to

This type of texture is what can be called "stomping". It's just a large and flat brush that's dipped in watered down drywall mud and "stomped" against the ceiling. If it's painted, getting it off will be a bit of a pain, but all you need to do is take a scraper and scrape off the mounds before sanding the rest down. It's the same process whether it's painted or not, but painted texture is much harder to sand off as paint is designed to withstand that sort of thing.

Right on. Shoot me a message if you have any specific questions once you get around to it.

This.

However these legs are attached to cheap particleboard, disassembling the thing, and liberal application of PL on all hardware and contacting surfaces - they will be rock solid. I would be tempted to even do a caulk style bead around each leg as a final step to really lock them in.

Don't over think a solve for a cheap piece of furniture folks. I'm all for fixing stuff and avoiding landfill, but the right fix here is PL. New legs? Adding cross braces? Absolutely not necessary.

I call it “mop head” cause that’s kinda how you make it

You beat me!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SINKOLOGY-Josephine-Apron-Front-Farmhouse-34-in-3-Hole-Single-Bowl-Kitchen-Sink-in-Crisp-White-SK450-34FC/307727605#overlay

Take notes: broom handle next time, not hand. Signed:Stumpy McStumpin.

Get some angle brackets and screw the entire desk to the wall. No more wobble and not visible