Plug it in and attach a plastic bag over it as a temporary measure. If the bag gets blown of by the wind and it rains your rcd may trip. Not really recommended though.

Nice, I bet this looks sick. I was asking because I wanted a yellow Xterra for years and genuinely cried when they stopped making them. Maybe someday I’ll buy a used one, but definitely can’t afford two cars right now.

Honestly the legs are fine if they are attached securely. Cross bracing would look terrible and be difficult with those legs, so unless this is utility furniture, I wouldn’t do it. A mortise and tenoned cross bar would look nice, but can’t imagine that would be worth the while.

Woohoo Case closed ! :) I’m pretty sure that’s not exactly what You’ve meant but i kinda reworked You’re idea :) The one peace solution is for a bigger angle and the two part thing is for smaller corrections :) Now just measuring and deciding ! :) Thanks !!! :)

https://imgur.com/a/cXZRV6b

Leave the legs alone and bolt it to the wall behind it

From experience, it takes at least 3 coats of ceiling paint to properly cover this texture. You will NOT get full coverage after 2 coats, and after dry color match is nearly impossible, so poor coating will always be visible.

You will be using thin shims to make the angle adjustments. There will still be plenty of threads on the mounting screws holding it in. Also, this is stationary and not in a moving/vibrating car so it doesn’t take much for it to stay in place.

If you needed thick shims for the rear area to get your perfect angle it would be worth buying longer screws to give you peace of mind. Just make sure they’re not too long and go through into your bar.

I've always known it as slap texture.

It has taken us a few years just to "fix" our broken closet door:

• We "had to" upgrade to new and better doors.
• We "had to" tear out the old shelves, repair the drywall, and paint.
• We "had to" build and install new shelves.
• We had to modify the door frames and rails (because they were not square, nor a standard size) to fit in the space.
• We had to repair the damage to the wall from the mistakes.
• Then, we could finally install the new doors and haul the old doors and hardware to the landfill.

... standard scope creep! ;)

With the recent cold weather, we're starting to get condensation that is dripping in the fan and into the bathroom.

Yeah, thats where you'll see the problem first. My guess is that its raining in your attic when the tropical rain fog comes billowing into the cold attic from your hot shower vent.

Would wrapping them in something like this be effective? And stop the dripping?

I would imagine if you shove enough of this around the pipe, it will soak up the water like a sponge and turn into a wet dripping stinking mess. So, yeah. sort of.

Obviously, the ideal solution would be to properly vent to the outside...

...Obviously...

but that isn't a quick fix/feasible option at the moment.

You do realize that one piece of flexible pipe run into a vented soffit, roof vent, or literally any other opening is better that just venting into the attic, right? And its not more expensive than the insulation wrap u show here, just slightly different to install.

My best advice is this..

Do you own it? Fix it right. Do you rent it? If so then leve it well alone and call the landlord and let him fix it or not.

Got it ! Super simple :) But doesn’t that make a huge gap in reliability there ? Because it would be resting on one corner there and it’s a pretty heavy sound bar…

If the vent tube is pointing directly up, why not just put give it an s shape or a couple bends to trap the condensation higher up?

Can you run it to a soffit and at least get majority of the air out? Soffits should be open to outside for venting. You could possibly bury it in the blown insulation and just expose the end to soffit vent. Its not ideal, but it might help.

What you just described is a washer. A washer can be used as a shim though. A shim is anything that creates space (think of it like a small wedge). You need to create space in certain areas to change the overall angle.

If you insulate the pipe, you won’t condense in the pipe, you’ll move where it condenses to the first cold spot it hits in the attic. I’d vent it outside the roofline.

Cardboard drink coasters work very well for this application.

Firstly thanks for not commenting on the TV being to high, not on grandmas table, or on a lowhighwhatever board :) I had to google what a Shim is, so its a screw in a screw like a screw with a hole in it to screw another screw and sorry, but i just don’t get what You’re meaning here and how i could get the solution here…

Thanks for sharing the detailed photos. I see two solutions and neither requires special tools.

1- At the rear bracket with the silver screw, add a shim to the bottom outside corners between the narrow bracket and the sound bar’s thick L bracket. This will change the angle and remain completely hidden.

2- On the bottom of the sound bar add shims between the bar and bracket in front of the mounting screw. Add too many and you’ll see it though.

You may need a combination of both of these to get the angle you want. The TV mount should have come with multiple washers and spacers that should work for what you need here.

That’s what I’m thinking, I think all the paint advisories are more applied to other textured ceiling types, I can’t imagine how many coats it would take to work over this stuff that has the shape of upset whipped cream! So hopefully it should be pretty easy!

Neat, thank you for that! Is there a reason you do that as opposed to water or wallpaper remover?

:D Exactly :) + im also watching mine from kitchen while cooking :) Just have to use these 83 inches of perfection here = im doing it while standing sooo… but the other commenters will definitely say what im doing wrong here :) Maybe a second TV ?, like the ones with VHS tape because that’s the best media storage thingy ? :D But to be honest, if You have nothing good to say here, keep it to yourself :) im not asking if i should put my TV somewhere else :) I have a pretty exact description of my problem :)

Old drywaller here. To remove texture ceiling we used to trowel drywall compound over it,

wait for it to soften, an hour more or less. Then scrap the resulting goop off the ceiling with a 5 or 6 inch trowel.

The builders NEVER paint this type of ceiling, it’s a feature of why they do it, because it’s white and covers all the seams. Would only be painted if a former owner did it.

Found out it’s apparently called “stomp” because the brush is “stomped” on the ceiling.

Could also get 2 sheets of stone that are bookended, so the pattern continues