Yuck. Don’t do this.

If it makes you feel better, we started renovating our bathroom in February.

Ripping out old half-wall tile, replacing the floor, new tub, shower walls, then floor-to-ceiling wall tile.

Not a lot of scope creep, just a lot of scope. We're finally finishing it this week...

This is super common. I’ve seen it done before and when I bought the house it was already done. I just put the outlet that was already there inside the on-q box.

You can try putting washers on the attachment bolts between the brackets and the TV to shim the top of the brackets. Or just remove the sound bar from the TV and mount it to the wall.

You installed an electrical device above a fireplace, and wonder why it's hot? And you intend to mount another electrical device in front of that?

How can I put this delicately? Please sell your tools and consider hiring people in the future. Perhaps update your fire insurance.

Had this recently when replacing one of these valves. Despite cleaning it, the pipe had a deformation that stopped the ring from crimping properly, and lead to a slight leak. I didn't have another ring to try again further back, and all the stores were closed.

Guess who now has a compression shutoff soldered onto their toilet supply.

Does it hum or does it make no sound?

Watch this little video and you'll know what to do. First few seconds of video actually:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3itNKgyxU7M

We don’t have enough info yet but don’t sweat this too much. It looks like caulk near the doorframe where the floor was cut a bit short originally but the floor has now shrunk a little more creating an even larger gap.

The threshold should be investigated more. Is there adhesive on both sides or just one side? It may be able to be cleaned and reset in place.

I have unmounted and disassembled garbage disposals a few times in order to get them unstuck. It's not hard and doesn't take long. You should be able to open up the grinding chamber to get to whatever may be jamming it. I've had little pebbles and pieces of silverware get tightly jammed between the blades and the casing. Maybe check YouTube for a video if you need encouragement.

Have you read the installation instructions? They require room transitions depending on the room size to allow the floor to float properly.

My friend had a cheap contractor install a floating laminate floor in his entry way and large kitchen. No transition was used where it should have been and every summer the floor can’t expand far enough and pops up. It shrinks back down in the winter but more people should read instructions.

That's a terrible idea.

I've never seen what you're describing (me being in the US), but that exact construction is for safety from shock and sparks, that is, personal electrocution and home fire. You have to use that box thing to get around the life safety protection offered by the initial outlet.

Is there an actual safe way to install power receptacle(s) where you want them? Maybe these details are like this so you'll have to look at the real possibilities of fire and electrocution, though I'm sure not everyone understands why it is as it is.

Counterpoint: hairpin legs look cheap and do not go with the style of this table. Hairpins need to be matched with a top that is also visually light and airy. This looks good; this looks dumb and clunky.

If that's what I was working with I'd figure out a way to triangulate from the legs back up to the bottom of the desk with some dowels or something similar. Honestly those legs are pretty spindly for a table that size, at least based on the pics.

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Quite apt, i’d say

This will not scrape off! The high spots have to be knocked down with a floor scraper and the entire surface has to be skim coated and sanded several times, and it’s a shit-ton of work…Source: just did redid this exact ceiling in a 3000 sq ft house. It was weeks of waking up with drywall dust in every orifice of my house and body…also pretty sure some of this stuff is asbestos mixed in, so don your PPE as if your life depends on it, because it probably does.

The other option that was considered was laminating 1/4 drywall with spacing shims, and then tape and texture and paint everything, but when I added up the cost of material and time, I went with the skim coats option. It was 3 weeks of my life, I don’t care to think about; TBH.

I can hear the motor going but it doesn’t move. Does that sound like it’s jammed up, in your expert opinion? I don’t know shit about these things.

Just using normal physics. You can't add cold, you can only remove heat. Exhaust fans work with this principle and not against it.

Yes! Just like Adam says, the pattern can be bookended from the sink outward. This is what I did, it looks incredible. There is a seam at the center of the sink (I know some folks hate that but a farmhouse would hide the front seam as an option) but then the bookend goes in both directions (granite) for ~10 feet on both sides.

I’ve done exactly that before

Just disassemble and reassemble with gorilla glue in every joint and screw hole. It will be super solid. Try to wet the holes/surfaces first though. The gorilla glue likes it. 🦍🦍

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Nice work! Keep in mind, if you angle it up too high you will easily see the bar’s bottom brackets.

If you’re adding shims to only the rear mount near the silver screw it won’t need much thickness to make a decent change in the bar’s front angle. You could test it by even folding a piece of paper in half five times and slipping that in (with bar removed for safety-loosen the screw, insert shim, retighten screw).