Recent comments in /f/DIY

Any-Grapefruit-937 t1_j2079pn wrote

Agree that you should not cover that. It is there for a reason, and if you ever need access to it you will cause a lot of damage to your floor. I can think of a couple of alternatives. Perhaps someone smarter than me can tell you better. See if a plumber could cut the pipe so that it is below the floor. Have said plumber create a lip of some kind, cut a round piece of 1/2" plywood and a corresponding piece of floor. Glue the floor to the plywood then put the "plug" over the hole. That way you can access the pipe if you ever need it and it won't be a trip hazard.

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aZamaryk t1_j2075du wrote

Buy one of those plastic discharge adapters and just screw it against the vent. You should have 2x4s around the eaves vent and should be able to just fasten it on an edge. Clamp or zip tie hose in place. Or if money is that tight you can always just screw the hose itself to the wood. Use washer to give more holding strength. A washer can be any flat item, piece of wood even.

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aZamaryk t1_j206u01 wrote

Yes, I have actually. Transitions are just covers for the required gap at ends. You will need one if you change direction of installation from room to room, run up against another type of floor, or just doing single room. The most issues stem from incorrect installation due to lacking expansion gaps, poor assembly by not locking planks correctly or nailing/caulking down sections of the floating floor. If you install the underlayment correctly and follow all guidelines for end gaps, including at doorways, dont nail or caulk any portions of floor down, you can run a whole house without a single transition without any issues. Also, different manufactures have different recommendation and I would not use a product that said you had to use transitions between all rooms, and have yet to see one that specifically requires this.

Your friends floor is likely an issue with no end gap allowances for expansion. Some contractors will install floor without pulling up baseboards to cut their costs and try to cover end gaps with shoe molding. Most floors require at least 3/8 expansion gap against any hard surface.

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peachy175 t1_j2067bt wrote

I actually have no firm info - from the colors used to tile and the look of the rest of the bathroom (and because I know the family living here at the time did a lot of updating), I would say mid-80s. It does look later than the popcorn era, and later than asbestos, but as you said, still wouldn't hurt to check it.

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Reelair t1_j205q2x wrote

Best bet is to vent it out of the soffit. You'll want to bury the vent hose in plenty of insulation, like 24" of insulation.

My mom has hers vented out a soffit, but it wasn't properly insulated. During the winter you could see a line in the snow on roof where the vent was run. This melted snow caused ice damming, leading to more problems. The duct was insulated, it was under about 12" of blown cellulose insulation, still wasn't enough. I put 2 layers of R20 on top of the vent, no more issues.

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mcdiego OP t1_j202dw9 wrote

Okay nice. I’m going try for one of the eaves vents.

Any thoughts on how I should secure the hose to the eaves vent? Or could I get away with just resting it on there? Mainly thinking about a strong wind gust or something could move it off.

Really appreciate your help.

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tucci007 t1_j201qdh wrote

where were you taught this? to remove the heat you want to suck it out of there, not keep it in; and you want to draw in cool air at the same time, so you get a circular flow of cool in from the bottom, and warm out at the top, also heat rises so it's a natural flow assisted by the exhaust fans; dust will be blown in by the fans in your scheme, much more than any drawn in 'at the seams', which won't happen since air will be drawn in the holes drilled at the bottom.

if dust is a concern put some thin cloth over the intake holes and remember to vacuum them occasionally

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financialmisconduct t1_j1zyzjr wrote

If they've got a large transformer/PSU, is it rated to be outdoors?

A lot of the time, the lights are outdoor rated but the power supply itself isn't

Water isn't the only concern, temperature unfortunately is too

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NOT000 t1_j1zyw9z wrote

call about taking it back if u cant get it working

we got ours from home depot and the warranty was good enough that any time w brought it back they gave a new one

easy to install, dont forget the popout

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mcdiego OP t1_j1zxu17 wrote

>You do realize that...

Whatever phrase was to follow, the answer was no. I'm brand new to this :)

>it will soak up the water like a sponge and turn into a wet dripping stinking mess

This is essentially what I thought would happen, but some quick searches made it sound like that's all that was required. But that didn't make sense, which you pretty much just confirmed.

>Fix it right.

Yep, I know. Was just looking for a temp fix at the moment. I appreciate your help.

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