You can but you won't flat cut it anymore, you'll be adjusting your saw twice for every cut. I suggest you go rent a saw and avoid yourself a lot of frustration.

If it’s dot and dab plasterboard onto thermalite block you will be needing chemical anchors https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Wl0QhjtPtdM

Hammer drill for masonry bits, preferably of the actual hammer variety and not the crappy clutch hammers found in cheapy drill "with hammer switch action" drills. An actual hammer drill and a good bit will eat that wall like butter. Don't wave the bit around either, you want that hole to fit the spaghetti plug as tight as it can fit to get a good mount for a TV. And make sure the screws are long enough to go as far back as they can without bottoming out too early.

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Awesome, thanks. Everyone seems to be agreeing that a hammer or SDS drill is the way to go. I'll drop into my local tool rental place and ask tomorrow what they've got for the job.

If it is actual concrete it could be tricky with a standard hammer drill. SDS drills tend to have a bit more oomph , I would recommend one

Edit: remember to use a masonry drill bit whatever type of hammer drill you use

Have you ever done this style of texture. I bet not. Have you even done any drywall work at all.

How are the legs attached to the base?

If possible, add Wood Glue. I think you'll get more stability from the wood glue that you imagine, all without having to add unsightly modifications.

Yeah my grandpas place has this ceiling everywhere in his house. He had black mold in the bathroom and this ceiling tore up all the sponges I had to remove the black mold. It sucks.

Farmhouse or apron front sinks are what you want for this. They make them in porcelain (white), stainless steel, granite, etc.

Get as close of a color match as possible. Paint your touchup area but take the extra on your brush and "dry brush" it in a large area, 8-12 inches, around your touchup so the paint kind of fades out to the dry wall. It'll hide your touchup much better.

If you take in a piece of paint or wall, at least the size of a quarter, they should be able to use their spectrometer to get a match.

Okay awesome, I'll go in and ask in person then and see what they've got. Thanks the advice!

For concrete you want an SDS drill, try that term instead.

Edit: also watch some videos on YouTube on the difference between different types of drills and how to drill walls without hitting anything such as pipes and electric cables.

If you don’t know the color of the paint it will be tough.

You could try to get a sample off the wall (maybe behind a picture or somewhere inconspicuous) and take it to a paint store or Big Box store and have them match it, but it still probably won’t be perfect. If you do this, pay attention to the sheen. If the wall is glossy and your touch up is flat, it will stand out.

If you can’t get a sample you might be able to match it by eye if you get a “fan-dex” from a paint store—the thing with all the paint colors from a certain brand in it. There are some tricks to matching by eye, but you can do it with practice.

If you can touch up a larger portion that goes all the way to the edge of a wall it will be much less obvious.

Just assuming it's a clean out or drain and I wouldn't cover it.

You can use self leveling compound if you want to take out any inconsistencies in the concrete floor, but don't cover the pipe.

Lay the flooring down and leave access to the pipe. In the past I've made little access panels from the flooring itself. This way you get consistency and you can hide it while still having access if needed.

> If you are going to fix a problem you need to understand why there is a problem instead of just doing what you think might solve it.

wonderfully succinct.

No, hammer drills are different. If you have a harbor freight, their cheapest one is about $35. You'll probably need additional masonry bits as well.

When using the masonry bit, dip the tip in water every 1-2 minutes, it will keep the bit from getting too hot and wearing out as fast.

Rent a Hilti Roto hammer or any hammer drill that has a handle attachment. Should make a bit easier leveraging yourself as you drill

Is a hammer drill the same thing as an impact drill? My nearby tool rental place has impact & rotary drills, but nothing called a hammer drill specifically.

The blocks may be filled with concrete, which is harder than blocks. If you are really unlucky you may have hit a piece of rebar. Try a new bit or move over and try a new hole.

Screws or super glue?

Artex- unless you installed it, you don’t know what it is without testing

First, you need a hammer drill and masonry bit. Sounds like you may not have them?

When drilling concrete you want a hammer drill