And more quiet compared to stainless!

I think you've somehow not understood what i said/what we're talking about here. They make sockets designed to be attached to the outside of your house, the actual socket is in a little weather proof box that you open, plug in whatever, then close it back over the plug to keep it safe from water etc... but the socet within that box is pretty much identical to one you would find inside a British home and you're using the same Brittish three pronged plugs into it with all the added safety benefits they give.

The problem with those, when it comes to christmas lights, is that christmas lights often have the transformer and/or the switch to control the pattern of the lights built into their plug, making the plug a lot bigger than the standard UK plug and the aformentioned external sockets are built to only accept a standard size plug, there's no extra room for a bigger than normal plug.

There would be nothing unsafe about plugging the lights into it, if only you could fit the cover down over it, they're just not made that way as the typical use for them is gardening tools etc... and to make the boxes bigger around the socket would cost them more money and reduce profits only to benefit a very small part of their potential market.

For inside corners, one end of the crown is cut square and butts against the wall. The other end is cut mitered for an inside corner first and then coped. The process for measuring remains the same.

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But, unless the crown is too big to cut "standing up" like shown in the picture linked above there's no reason to cut it flat. The picture linked above shows how to cut crown "upside down and backwards" for lack of a better way to describe it.

You would cut your length and angle with the first cut flat then you'd cut the back bevel cut on the crown against the fence so the miter joint is tight. Sounds easy but depending on your crown profile this could be rather difficult to achieve. Just an fyi

It sounds like you have an unbalanced circuit. You may even have a floating neutral sapping power from one side.

In fairness, the item itself was not too bad quality and it works well. But it’s made of plastic and came in a cardboard box the exact size of the item with no padding. So any pressure on the package, like being thrown in a van with 400 other items, resulted in cracked plastic.

That would make a goose neck flask like in chemistry class. Or basically a P trap where you don't want one.

Adding cold air however is a breeze.

Both positive and negative pressure systems work, and both have their own advantages.

In OP's case i'd go for a balanced system: two low speed 200mm fans, one intake one exhaust, both with filters (to keep pressure balanced).

Cool. Thanks for taking the time to explain!

If I stayed with this saw and the flat cut method, how would I do the second cut without the second bevel? Flip the board over?

You can hold it against the fence as it was the corner between the ceiling and wall, and just use the regular miter https://i.imgur.com/loT2eAg.jpg

Within reason it's gap filling. I think if used as the original commentor of this thread suggested, it will probably make the desk feel fairly sturdy.

It all depends on color matching and then what level of sheen you need. And if actual paint chipped off then the paint isn’t going to just fill that spot and make it look normal. You’d have to build up the missing paint area with spackle or something and match texture and then paint

Hammer Drills are also called Rotary Drills, Rotary Hammers, or SDS Drills. If you plan on staying at this house for awhile, I'd invest in a cheap hammer drill to keep on hand.

Yes, it's a real thing. It'll cost a penny extra, but probably worth it. You can anything now adays, just looking for the right name and a vendor to sell it to you.

I don't know your climate- personally I'm leery of any wet wall facing outside, and typically there is a window over the sink too- so you'll have thinner insulation and the opportunity to freeze pipes in the wall (water /knobs are typically supplied via the wall).

All that said go to a kitchen/bath place and check out their catalogs.

I ended up buying an 'industrial' looking stainless steel tank paired with an industrial overhand nozzle. I had to butcher the countertop to get it to fit- there's only a couple of inches around- and there was a size larger than that. I personally love it- it's deeper than anything and so far is easier to clean, even if the kids have to pick up the grates.

Do what makes sense and go for it.

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Ours got jammed up, could not free it, so we replaced it with a slightly bigger one. Pulled the old one apart to find a bolt wedged in it, really not sure how that got in there, thought maybe it came out of the disposal but nothing felt loose.

Yeah. That was just a suggestion anyway. I’d use a brand name. And get it from Toolstation or some such.

You may find /diyuk useful for this and further more UK specific queries…

Yup exactly like that

> Many farmhouse sinks are white porcelain. While they certainly look nice, I would personally recommend to stay away from porcelain.

I'd like to suggest the granite-composite sinks. I got one after my parents did and the maintenance has been zero after about 2 years. No streaks, no nicks or blemishes and it looks fantastic.

They're generally a dark color. Ours is black with little flecks. Again, the dark color really looks nice...

Be warned that if you buy this one from Amazon, it will defiantly turn up broken. I had 3 delivered before getting it in one piece.

That's the impression I got, but it's weird I haven't heard of it. I'm not a tradesman but I've done a fair bit of work at my house.

Is it gap filling? Something you'd use (among other things) to stick two pieces together where you may not have as much surface contact as you'd want? In this case, it will fill in gaps in the screw holes in addition to being adhesive?

Again - just looking to learn. The next DIY project is always around the corner. >.<

Something I have done instead of mounting the tv mount into cement was to build a frame the width needed for the mount out of 2 by 4's that went from the floor to the ceiling. I fastened the 2 by 4's to the floor joints above and the bottom just rested on the basement floor. You can box it in and it will cover up all the wires.

Not who you asked but I think the answer would be pretty universal. PL glue such as PL400 or PL Premium is kind of the go to glue for trades people. Not expensive, readily available, and it works very well if you use as directed.