It's extremely easy to use but very limited. It's good for mesurent. Forget about moving parts. It's very basic. Only advantage is you can move around and check mesure on your phone. Maybe Fusion 360 can do that since there's a phone version too .

Woodworker here. I go off the seat of my pants mostly.

I start with whatever paper I have handy. Most of the time inspiration strikes when I only have napkins. So its napkins, graph paper, add measurements, then pray my math is right.

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Is sketchUp easy to use? I'm thinking about to switch programms to be honest. Looking up measurements with your phones sounds quite good to me! Can you also simulate things in it? For example, push/pull on a drawer and check if it's stuck somewhere?

Ideally a hammer drill or similar it the best tool. However if you have patience you can use a diamond core drill bit. Be sure it is rated for dry use (as opposed to water cooled, by hose or similar)

Something like this.

I would also consider getting a piece of plywood 3/4 or similar. Mount the TV on the plywood and use the cement plugs to hold the plywood. You can then put a number of plugs to hold the plywood.

That sounds about right

I'm 24, i mostly work with wood and when i start on the pc i just get measurements that seem to fit. When i'm done, i go to my nrighbour who owns a sawmill and ask what kind of wood he has in stock. I'l change the size of my created pieces on the pc and then i'm pretty much ready to start. Now i know how much wood i need, where to cut it and drill holes and how to connect them. I taught it to myself, so it's not perfect, neither the computer work, nor the wood working but i learn a lot when i'm going at it!

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I at least make a list and maybe a sketch.

I modeled my house on SketchUp. So I can check the measurements when I'm at the DIY store with my phone .

I'm reminded of my father in laws practices. Measure twice, cut three times and then just shove it in place.

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This is a brilliant idea. If we can cut the pipe to be recessed below grade, we'll definitely do this!!

>Why did you replace those particular units?

Just a guess, but a common answer to this is replacing two-pronged receptacles (ungrounded) with three-pronged and / or updating wall switches to match a room remodel.

So do nothing then and live with the drip, got it.

Not a problem. Good luck!

That’s going to be tricky to diagnose without being there. Likely some neutral wires hooked up wrong somewhere.

We remodelled our fairly large kitchen which required a few pieces of worktop including a join. We hired a specialist work surface company who gave us great advice on exactly where to cut/join and they used really experienced installers. They were half the price of the surface quoted by the kitchen company.

The joins were visible, but you didn’t really see them and they made no visual impact on the kitchen.

FYI one piece of advice we got is don’t join a surface at the sink, as it’s much more likely to eventually leak. Place the join to one side.

Oh, wow. It is going to be difficult to walk you backwards through this. My best advice is that you really need an electrician to untangle this for you. Seriously. Before you do anything else, you need to realize that if everything was fine BEFORE you replaced them, then: A) Why did you replace those particular units? B) If you are experiencing problems AFTER you replaced them, then your issue is with a connection at one of the boxes you were working in. There is no need to open anything else, especially the service panel, looking for the problem. C) Are you 100% positive that all of the new devices are direct replacements for the units removed? D) Did any of the outlets have the isolation links removed? E) Were any dimmers, or 3way switches installed/removed/replaced?

Don't cover the drain. You also can't have a hump in the subfloor under vinyl plank. The box usually says something like 1/8" dip or hump over 8' max. Else it pulls apart at the seams

Got it… I see what you’re saying. I just tried the other methods… having the board top-down at a 45 degree angle against the back fence and cutting on a 45 degree angle. Worked fine for both inside and outside corners so I’ll thick with that method. Thanks for the insight.

Indeed!

There are a few technologies for hammer drills. Generally you have a selector button on the side if you want just drilling or also with hammer function, or in some cases just hammer (bit doesn't rotate, useful for chisel-like bits).

One simpler technology does the hammering through a couple discs with a Z profile - the rotation of the motor plus your force of pushing the drill towards the wall gives the bit some light hits. These make a lot of noise and not too much progress in hard concrete, and your arms will go numb. I don't think I have ever seen one advertise the impact force or, if it did, it was rarely above 1J (Joule).

Then there's the other kind, which generates the impact force either mechanically or pneumatically. They are generally bulkier and seem to have a secondary motor perpendicular to the drilling axis. These go easily into 2,5-3J. They are not so loud, but VERY efficient. Just be careful at first, the drill will feel like it's pushing you back a few inches ehen it reaches the concrete layer, hold steady so that you don't break it. The SDS mandrel helps (instead of the classical drill bits).

Borrow or rent one for a few holes. If you need one more frequently or want to own one, look for Lidl's promotional periods when theybput on sale their Parktool model, it is excellent for its price without breaking after the 5th use.