Also, those felt round things to stop legs from scratching glued on for a more sturdy temporary solution

I just went through this. At first I was really intimidated by holding the crown upside down and having to cut everything backwards. After a few pieces, I got the hang of it. In my opinion for a homeowner its not worth it to have a double bevel saw. one thing that really helped me was making a jig to hold the crown in the same place every time or else the cuts won't line up properly. You can also buy crown stops if they're available for your saw.

Get it dried in and out of the weather.

Remediate after that if you want. Id definitely let it dry before sheetrock or whatever youre planning to close it in.

Many people offered superior solutions; mine would be redundant. A comment that precludes a detrimental unproductive "solution" is indeed productive. Did you try reading the other comments offering alternative solutions? Regarding correct venting? Have a good one.

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It's definitely sds and not just a hammer drill you'll want, I'd suggest trying it out on a pit of waste masonry if possible first, it's not like a normal drill it punches into the surface you are drilling

You seem arrogant af so I'm not surprised

Regardless of the subfloor, the transition usually comes with a metal clip rail. You can anchor that into the floor then the piece just snaps in. Looks like a tiny u channel and has little ribs to hold the paper transition.

There are some outlets and switches. I'd like for them to be flush with the installed drywall. I'm not sure yet how to do that. Currently the outlets and switches protrude from the particle board (as demonstrated in the 2nd photo in https://imgur.com/a/70C616t).

Why drywall over fiberboard instead of just replacing the fiber board with drywall altogether? Just easier to place it on top, and provides a tad more insulation keeping the fiber board around?

When installing crown. I always shoot the crown 18” or 24” from the corner. If there’s a small gap at the bottom push the trim upwards. Opposite for gap at the top.

Okay I also don’t really have a subfloor to attach the transition too as seen in these photos .

https://imgur.com/gallery/EHStgih

https://imgur.com/gallery/EHStgih Looks like adhesive on just the floor. What is the name of this kind of caulk.

Feathering. https://youtu.be/KcMR3lnTJOc

The easiest way to cut crown under 3-1/2”. Put the crown on the miter saw upside down from the way it should be installed. Scribe a pencil line top and bottom on the table and fence of the saw. Now, you can just cut 45° miters for inside and outside corners. Just hold your crown on those marks for the next cuts.

Quarter round or shoe molding where floor meets baseboard to cover up remaining gaps then.

I'd drywall over the top of the fiber board if you can. Are there any outlets and switches you'd have to deal with?

You can hang the drywall yourself and find a drywaller to mud and tape it. I had a guy mud and tape my garage for $300. Worth every penny. I talked to him before I started drywalling so it was the way he wanted it for mudding.

As with most trades having cold beer around helps.

If your sawblade is big enough.... make a fixture to hold the crown upside down and backwards against the fence.(the base of the mitersaw is the ceiling, the fence is the wall)

Then just cut 45s.

Awesome summary thanks. It's definitely for just these four holes so I'll opt to rent. But that's super helpful.

So there is baseboard there it just doesn't go down enough. So somehow get a little bit of baseboard to fill the gap after cleaning the caulk out?

Also the floor has an elevation change so I guess that's why there's a transition.

There already is a baseboard trim, it just doesn't go down enough so it's filled with caulk. I did slide it around a little so it does look better.

Right there in that same boat @ 38, heh.

I can usually get an estimate of what i am looking for in my head, and im able to keep it/remember it with the paper, hahahahah

It needs to be vented into the outside air, a vent in the attic is all kinds of wrong, you can then add a non return flap to prevent air blowing back down the tube

It will never match.

The epoxy part will be easy it's all in the prep. Unless you floors are bad I would float it with self leveling compound then epoxy it.

Don't guess.. do it especially if your going to do the work yourself. Asbestos is no joke If it was built after 85 it probably 99% isn't asbestos. That isn't drywall it's something else with fibers in it so mudding and sanding that isn't very ideal. Another option is to drywall over it. Which also helps with sound deadening and Insulating.