Yes, but how long is it? Would you be happy with a continuous counter? Because extra long counters are a thing too.

Lol. Got me there. Now make it work with the subject.

It's a very bad idea to give out 120v items that aren't UL approved. If they ever cause a fire, your giftees may not be covered by their insurance, and/or you may be sued.

Ectoplasm?

Youre a saint! Ill check it out, thank you so much. But dont cleanouts turn a few inches down too? In all the videos ive seen the cleanouts turn to a 45 degree a few inches down

I would pull the fiberboard, insulate and install drywall. I would have a pro mud it and I would also consider an FRP wainscoting. Garages get wet and drywall and wet do not get along.

>if no start there - screws can be reset ect, youtube superglue hacks to find out how to strengthen screw holes

ETC = Etcetera. there is no ect. It stands for nothing.

I would not cover it. Maybe cut around it and paint it the same color or something close in color. LVP is a great product great choice! Need any pointers - https://youtu.be/_G7fiiNxtfU

If there insulation behind the fiberboard, I'd be inclined to just leave it. If it has asbestos in it that's the cheapest and easiest. It's a fair insulator too. I hate fiberboard. No real reason, I just do. lol If you take it off you have to do something with it. It's made not to burn worth a darn. Dumpsters are expensive.

The electrical presents some interesting challenges. You can move the boxes out by cutting around the fiberboard and moving them or extend the boxes. Depending on who wired it you may have enough wire to extend them. Murphy's law says some of the wires will be way short, always!

If you take the fiberboard off you could move the wires in the exposed conduit into the walls and clean that up. That's a factor to consider. I only saw the 1 section of conduit.

There's not a wrong way to go. It's really your choice. Just because I have an opinion, doesn't make me right. Hopefully, I'm given you somethings to consider.

Because I tried to be sociable on social media, and got shamed for not looking something up, instead? I think you're really reaching to be offended here. But ok, play the victim.

One cup bleach per gallon of water if you feel you must treat it. Keep the solution away from fasteners if it is framed. A remaining stain on lumber is not an indication of live spores. Not all biological growth produces mycotoxins. You didn't say when the presence of biological growth appeared or describe the environmental conditions. In any case,provide as much control moisture as is practical. How you take care of the lumber from the time it is on site through when it is enclosed is important. Allow for air circulation and don't enclose it in your wall or roof assemblies if moisture content is 18% or higher. Typically, in SoCal we break down stacks right away when using green lumber (19% or more at the mill) or rip through it really fast. Once framed, it doesn't get drywall until it is less than 15%. Read up on this issue at the APA, WWPA, or at Weyerhaeuser, Georgia Pacific if you need technical references. Good luck.

Use redheads and their drill bit. Key is using a hammer drill you can also rent them!

https://youtube.com/shorts/GVypsBoZFsU

Wood glue my dude.

My old dining table, which has been moved like 8 times, used to be a grandparent's, and was one of those pull-apart styles with leaves to make it l o n g e r, was super wobbly. Creaking and swaying all over the place.

I took the legs off and apart, and placed a good dab of glue in every single joint and screw hole.

It's gonna be a bitch to disassemble when I move again, but that whole table is SOLID now. I wouldn't have trusted sliding it across the floor before, now I can reasonably(?) stand on it if I need to dust this one weird window that's kinda high in my dining room.

I don’t know about drilling more holes in the wall and not being able to move the table again

They’re attached with a metal plate on the opposite side of the particle board, around the size of the leg, I could take it apart and add glue to both sides, but it might be the shitty quality of the particle board that allows it to bend too much.

Bleach is your friend.

Haha, thanks man! It’s actually laminate flooring from Quick-Step called Impressive Patterns. It’s Hungarian Point. It was the cheapest way we could get nice looking flooring like this. Also these Ikea doors fit perfectly https://www.ikea.com/nl/nl/p/hedeviken-deur-eikenfineer-70491698/

Maybe a stainless steel combination counter / drain board / sink? Very commercial looking if that fits your style... You can get them in lots of sizes, left, right, centered, etc. This is one example just to illustrate - https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/s4819l.html

This is the best answer so far.

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Follow the same process of marking the wall and ceiling every few feet to make sure the crown doesn't roll on you and viola.

Plumber here - I have my doubts that is a cleanout, but rather instead an abandoned toilet without a flange. You can confirm by pulling off that knockout cap and look down, if it turns a corner a few inches down, its a toilet. If so - get an inside pipe cutter, and inside test plug. Cut the pipe off flush with the concrete, put the test plug in a couple inches down, use a chipping hammer to level the lip around the pipe, then cap with concrete.

So I would just detach the lags, add PL and stick them back and for good measure add some around the legs on the inside too? That seems pretty cheap and easy

Go to a thrift store and buy a table, by the time you do an EFFECTIVE repair you will have spent more money and time than a used table.

Valve works as should? Edit. When the last rad was fitted, a lot of water escaped?

Can’t see it without opening the wall up. Thx.

You can use an impact with a masonry bit.