You can start by grabbing some expanded owens-corning pink foam boards. They come in 2" thick and are easily cut. Also get a can of the water-based spray foam, so that you can clean it up easily in the future if you need to. Cut 2 pieces from the foam board to fit the hole and so you end up with 4" of insulation. Fill any gaps around the edges with the spray foam, and enjoy the lack of cold air making it into your living space.

Some showers also have a pressure valve along with the shower cartridge. Getting no water is a sigh of a failed cartridge, no hot water can be the pressure valve valve.

That may be but you still assembled them and the unit has not been certified. In industrial settings we made our own extension cords and they needed to be inspected by the electrical authority prior to use. They put a pretty sticker on it and shot the shit to kill time. But, really, who cares and nice work!

Fast, sturdy solution: Bolt some plywood over the outside. Caulk the edges. Couple coats of exterior paint. Stuff insulation into the wall gap space. Drywall the inside surface.

Temporary fix: Sturdy sheet plastic on the outside, stapled down. Insulation in the gap. Plastic sheet on the inside.

Yes, definitely want to get it fixed before we have some new house guests!

After the roofer installed the vent, did you just use the same duct work from your temporary fix? And did you have the vent installed on the gable?

Can we get a picture? It's clearly an exposed wall, but how much insulation is in that wall or specifically between that stud space? Do you have electrical running in that specific section? Own or rent? Do you need to be able to undo most of your work? If you don't care about insulation, you could technically drywall over it; but you're still going to get a very cold wall.

If you aren't able to break the wall open more (insulation batting, hard foam board), then you're really left with trying to insulate what you can get at, and close the wall up.

A 3 legged stand will never wobble. Best I can do rn.

Check the old outlets and see if the tab was broken off. If so then you need to break it off of the new one. It'll be on the outlets where just the top or bottom is controlled by a switch.

I have a huge 36” farmhouse sink by franke. It’s great. We have a seam back there but it’s hardly noticeable. You could hide is at the faucet to make it even less visible

You’re welcome. I like Liquid Nails construction adhesive. Just don’t use a “Gorilla Glue” type glue for this.

Yeah….no. It’s assembled from off the shelf UL listed components in a code compliant way. Box, outlet, 1/2” npt cord pass through, regular NEMA 5-15 plug. Grounded the box. There’s nothing to worry about there.

If you have any open vents in the attic space, get some flexible pipe and temporarily have the air move right to the vent opening. You'll at least get much of it leaving. Then insulate the rest, and do it all properly in the spring.

Thanks you so much. I’ll look for an acrylic glue.

How big is the hole? What are the walls made out of? Cladding? Brick?

Is it wobbly because of the legs, or the floor being uneven? Haven't seen if this was considered. You can also bolt the table to the wall with two 'L' brackets.

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I've built particle board furniture for years and I can tell you that a screw in that board cannot hold much. Buy 4 metal legs which have at least 4 mounting holes each. Otherwise the only cheap option are 2 full panels left/right connected on the wall side of the desk with another panel 30-35 cm in height which you'll eventually have to screw it to the top part with metal brackets or if your brave/accurate enough, use wood pins Moreso, once you screw a screw in a particle board it is esential that you don't over screw it and break the thread. Multiple screwing in the same hole also weakens the bond. Do not use a guiding hole. Use screws as long as possible not to exit the other side. Particle board furniture can be sturdy too but it has limitations and it's highly recommended to deconstruct it if you plan to transport it to another location. If you want to make it extra sturdy and easy to break apart, mark the mounting plate holes of the metal legs and screw faucets in, the use metal screws to connect the legs. Hope this helps you and good luck

You really need to post some pics

Once the structure is dried in the wood will dry out and this wont be an issue

you own or rent?

Look up a YouTube video on fixing large holes in walls. Get a piece of carpet to hang over repair for insulation purposes

These are kick ass, well done.

I've seen the company you're talking about. They sell the exact same thing. I've been tempted to make my own too!

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