Im a shitty amateur electrician. I installed some outlets and had to have a smarter person come in to sort out where my mistake was. Absolutely get an electrician to sort it out.

If you cant or don't want to involve an electrician, I would start by identifying all the switches and outlets on each circuit. Then uninstall everything you did and reinstall it all, turning the power on after each piece to make sure that it doesn't trip the circuit. I got two wires backwards and would never have found it myself. The brain is weird and will hide your own mistakes.

Outlet by outlet is the only troubleshooting method to find where the mistake is. Other than calling a pro.

This is the answer.

2 inch is overkill though, two layers of half inch or so one at the outside and one neat the inside of the opening will be THE most insulated part of your wall.

The stuff is incredibly light, incredibly easy to slice with a boxcutter, and incredibly incredibly insulative.

Cut it intentionally a bit bigger, put it in diagonally and push it towards being flat.

It will wedge and seal like the dickens as you shove the leaning sides.

Then do another one or so their is air space between them.

Measure your hole before you go and cut with 2 inches spare there.

(These things are cheap, but come in huge sheets that are a pain to transport)

Then stick the spare stuff in the back of your closet and haul it out whenever you want to be constructive over the years.

Well those are way too sleek and slim. Who wants that when you can have a giant receptacle box instead?

I've seen desk lamps with built in 120v outlets in several hotels.

Also, nearly all UL listed power strips use stranded wire.

So I'd hazard a guess that it doesn't really matter.

I Own so any fixes are on me.

What's to "approve"? All of the components are rated and being used for their intended purpose.

Why are you so invested in arguing against a simple test in a reasonable situation that can prevent catastrophic lung damage? I never said you were wrong. We can both be right. Those are ways to do the job. There are other common ways to do the same job, and unless you installed it, you don’t know for sure. Risking asbestosis/mesothelioma for want of convenience is not reasonable, in my opinion. Good night..

Agree with others. Call the man.

In the meantime, a loss of power could mean you have a loose connection in what you worked on. Loose connections cause sparks. Sparks cause heat. Heat causes fire.

Feel the wire nuts for any heat. You may find your issue. Otherwise, I highly recommend leaving all related circuit breakers turned off.

I don't get it, there are tons of mains voltage extension cables with usb for dirt cheap on amazon and elsewhere.

Replace it with a window

Our kitchen sink is cast iron with white enamel. Heavy, but looks good and wipes down clean.

Either way you’re just getting airflow from the outside, so the cooling capacity is basically the same. The airflow patterns will be different inside the box of course, but either way you’re just exchanging air

The internet has been saying this kinda stuff for decades and it still isn't real. My insurance does not require that everything I use be UL approved, and I doubt anybody else's does either.

My insurance covers me if I get hammered and get in an wreck and kill people. And y'all think a series of UL listed devices connected together is gonna void an insurance policy? Folks build their PCs all the time, you think that will invalidate an insurance claim?

Could you be sued? Of course you can. Duh. You can be sued for NOT giving someone this awesome gift if they end up needing it to plug in some life saving doodad, but they couldn't because you never gave it to them. Anybody can sue anybody for anything else. Duh. I can sue you for making dumb reddit comments. So what?

We do this at NREL for plc enclosures installed outdoors specifically. We always have a fan on one side and a louver on the opposite (both with filters), so the airflow is basically the same whether your fan is pointed in or out.

Lamp cord to receptacle = code violations unless

A) this is a temporary power setup that was installed by a qualified electrician

B) the entire assembly is submitted to UL and approved

Technically what op did is illegal and would make them criminally liable in my state for doing electrical work without a license (18 months, 10k fine), and civilly liable for five figures worth of willful building code violations. If the device actually caused a fire or bodily harm it gets way way worse

Point is: this behavior is dumb and shouldn't be encouraged on this subreddit. Teach people to do things the right way, don't encourage them to break laws and put others at risk.

Edit: anyone who wants to argue the code, go review chapter 3 of the NEC and show me where it lists flexible cord as an appropriate wiring method, or maybe go read the 11 accepted uses for flexible cord outlined in 400.7

Temporary solution while you figure out a permanent one is duct tape and a trash bag.

But the most important question has already been asked. Do you own or rent?

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Electrician here:

Ya dun goofed. Call a sparky. Stay out of your panel. The more you continue to touch it, the more expensive it will be to fix it.

Friendly reminder to the DIYers, there's a reason that you need a license to be an electrician or a plumber.

"the problem with people is that they're unreasonable."

No truer words

Don’t take a shortcut on that one you will regret it. Moisture in the attic means mold and rot. Both are very expensive to fix. A lot more than venting outside.

As far as I'm aware you cannot wire up a 110v receptacle to a stranded wire in a non-fixed location, so the fact the individual components are UL listed is irrelevant - this is definitely not code compliant.

It's also probably perfectly safe under reasonable use, but the problem with people is that they're unreasonable.

Bad connection somewhere. Possibly a floating neutral. Recheck your modifications, but it is probably in the box. I'd say it's a professional problem.

Posters , Beer signs , pictures , traffic signs , flat screen , clock , dart board , tools , broken parts, that kinda stuff. Thats how you cover your garage walls the right way.

I used pre-insulated flex ducting, which is good for this sort of vent (not good for a kitchen vent...) and just moved those over once the proper vents were installed. I decided to go straight up through the roof to keep the vent runs really short to minimize the chance for condensation. The gable would have been ok, but the nearest gable faced the street, so it would have been a bit ugly. If it was facing the side of the house, that would have been easier/cheaper and I would have done that. The original builder had left all three bathroom vents open into the attic ( grumble !%$?!) so I had them all fixed at once. It was a bit of a challenge to find a roofer to even show up for such a little job. In the end, I overpaid a guy $500 to install three vents into the roof (asphalt shingle). I had to go into the attic and attach my flex ducting to the inside of the new vents.

Haha. Yeah. They love to do that in the industrial space. You would only seek UL certification as a product if you were actually selling them as a single device.