As long as there is counter beneath the flange you're drilling though you should be in good shape

So I am assuming that your current set up is using the 2 existing holes for the faucet and a spray nozzle?

We solved the problem a different way. We bought a faucet that pulls out to also be a spray head which freed up one of the existing holes for the RO water spigot.

And depending on the faucet setup used, you can hide the seam that way.

As much as I like the single bowl design, 2 is far more practical.

as a bumble fuck, I can also make this guarantee.

I'm not familiar with that type of equipment but is that valve body what you changed? Try reinstalling and see what results you get. If the old one works better you'd know what direction to start. I was hoping for a single handle Delta.

His question isn’t so much how to hold the weight of the shelf, it’s how to physically attach a shelf like this to a wall, since there’s nothing you can screw through to secure it to the wall.

Argh. Ok thank you - very helpful.

I have one acquaintance that may be able to help.

Guess I’ll have to fight with the seller!

Nows the time to scrape off those popcorn ceilings if you want them gone. Sounds like the edges are prepped for crown molding. You can spritz popcorn with water bottle wetting it thoroughly then scrape off with putty knife. It makes a bit of a mess, but is pretty easy. Just sand flat after, repair defects, prime then paint. The ceiling paint should be fine, but I would use primer on new surfaces with it. The emerald has primer in formulation and will go on fine on the painted walls. On new surfaces I'd still use primer with any paint. It promotes adhesion and blocks stains to give a much better finish. The prep work is always most important.

It also looks like the mdf is plastic wrapped, so glue might not hold much at all unless you cut the plastic wood look wrapping off. I think you might be ahead by finding a friend with some wood tools and making the side pieces out of maple or ash. I'd also shit all over the company because that need is made to fail.

Man, people are brutal. These are cool. They serve a purpose and they have a nice look to them. If everything is wired correctly I seriously doubt there is any kind of fire hazard unless you plug in a defective piece of equipment. .

I have a sleigh bed with a similar structure inside for supporting the cross pieces.

In addition to the support that runs the length of each side, they also glued and screwed small blocks of wood at several places just underneath the side pieces for a little extra support.

I have added pics of the parts I replaced. These are the only accessible parts without cutting into the wall.

Yes, avoid acrylic paint on your popcorn. Standard way of removing it is to thoroughly soak it with a garden sprayer and take it off with a putty knife. Should you choose to remove the texture one day, any acrylic coat you put on it will seal it against water penetration and make the removal much, much more difficult.

Be sure to thoroughly sand said spackle patches on the wall, and be sure to thoroughly clean them with TSP beforehand. But generally speaking, there should be no need to prime them.

They have paint specifically for ceilings which may cover a little better as it is a higher quality and is made to be a brighter white than the package color you got. But other than that you would be fine to use the 400 on ceilings.

You'll be good. The sink rests on the countertop itself and that is where it gets support from. The flange just holds it in place from moving side to side (once you tighten the brackets under the countertop) and covers the hole you've cut in the countertop for the sink.

and you are correct about swapping hole saws for each material.

Sorry! I was explaining what I’ve written above - especially option 3. I don’t use Imgur at all so I obviously didn’t realise I needed to put the sound on 💀

Yeah, I was disappointed when it wasn’t wood - it wasn’t described as wood and mdf on the website - and at the time it wasn’t worth the hassle to return it.

I suppose longer term we could replace the long sides and short ends with wood that matches the actual wood feet, and stain the whole thing to match. It would just be the storage headboard that was MDF and that wouldn’t bother me.

We like the bed otherwise so ¯_(ツ)_/¯ lesson learnt

Thanks! This seems like the majority suggestion. I’ll go with this. Time to stop procrastinating buying clamps I guess!

I see you pointing and gesturing, but there's no sound.

Thanks, a few folks saying to clean it up, glue and screw new holes. I might do this to the other side as prevention also. I don’t mind buying clamps for this job, I need them anyway for a chair repair (thankfully we did not break the chair, it came that way in a set).

Personally I just cut out a few triangles and used them as support between the molding and fence. Worked great!

But OP do a few tiny test pieces first so you can make sure the molding is cut the right way. It's been a while since I did this so I might be misremembering, but I think it needs to be upside down so the top of the "bottom" of your molding is against the fence?

LOL. Gosh. I want my bed to look nice but I did laugh.

Yes, as long as you use those products for their intended purpose as declared by the testing lab. This is not the listed usage for any of these devices, so it does not pass the sniff test

And you won't have to foot the fire damage bill yourself if they end up causing a housefire because they're NRTL approved