Can you post an image of the underside of the sink? In my experience undermount sinks have brackets on the left and right side to mount the sink to the countertop, but I’ve seen some creative installations.

Does the sink only have 1 pre drilled hole? The image you posted has two. If it has 2 pre drilled holes and the 2nd hole is being used for a soap dispenser or a sprayer/handle, I would just get a new faucet that’s a single hole and use the freed up hole for the beverage faucet (assuming they aren’t within a couple inches of each other).

Make sure whatever beverage/drinking faucet you install has a generous flange to cover up an imperfections on the quartz when you drill!

Sometimes, I hear friends complain that their contractor called and "wants more money" because they found some unexpected surprises in the course of the job.

There could be cases where the contractor is looking for excuses to increase the scope of the job, but I have done enough jobs myself to know that unpleasant surprises are the rule, rather than the exception. When it is safety-related (like the improperly-installed wiring that you discovered), then it is dangerous to ignore it.

If you paint the popcorn ceiling whoever decides to remove the texture in the future is going to be cussing you out. Popcorn ceilings are easy to remove if they aren't painted.

They not cheap for sure, but at the end of the day I would pay $500 to clean up this issue as it looks like ticking time bomb, anyone who has had water damage knows it could run in to the 10's of thousands, so you never want to get to that point ever. It's doable yourself, just need some tools and confidence.

OP stated that it’s an undermount sink which, by definition, means the sink does not rest on the countertop because it is underneath the countertop and not on top of it.

I'm a big fan of the self drilling anchors. You can get them in a variety of different load strengths, and a lot have their different parallel/perpendicular loads listed on the package too, which is super helpful.

Plus, they do unscrew out again if you ever wanted to patch the hole it leaves and relocate the item.

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We did the same, and put the vacuum switch for the garbage disposal inside the cabinet, under the sink (hole for it was on the old sink).

You're getting a good deal of practical and helpful advice but you should ignore that good advice and just bead a layer of construction adhesive to the back of that bad boy and slap it on the wall.

Was the black and gold one done first?

You could probably get timber cut to length at any home improvement store, just measure the lengths you would need. Move the existing hardware over to the wood, using the mdf as a template. Extra wood blocks under the rails is a good idea, you could also get some prefab furniture legs at the home improvement store to go between the rail and floor to help carry the weight too

Had to Google the difference. TIL!

It needs to be said old popcorn ceilings can contain asbestos.

For anything up to maybe a 3/16" bolt I wouldn't bother buying a hammer drill if you've already got a regular drill.

Cool. Yeah, it’s obviously not the quality we assumed. But we don’t have a casual £££ to throw at a new bed frame right now, so doing as good a repair as possible is worth it for me! Thank you.

If you are going to use the screws again with it then it probably doesn’t matter. Just move them to a new spot to get a good bite. I would use the construction adhesive (like liquid nails). It’s a cheap bed so I wouldn’t overthink it.

Thanks, yes someone else mentioned the plastic coating on the MDF means wood glue wouldn’t stick unless I remove the coating. If I don’t remove the coating will construction adhesive work ok?

Thank you!

In addition to what everyone else is saying get some of these d-ring hangers to secure to the back of the shelf. You only need two hangers about 2/3rds back on the vertical boards to take the weight.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ook-large-2-hole-d-ring-hangers--2pcs/1001027312?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00%20-%20E-Comm_GGL_Shopping_PLA_EN_All%20Products_All%20Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-300587868876&gclid=CjwKCAiAkrWdBhBkEiwAZ9cdcGmm8ygOVc1EBtS5F0k4nmvQYEG5XNacR7UT9o6ZqmupOI46jqvkdRoCdSMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you feel more confident you can also use a wood chisel and get flush mount keyhole hangers into the same spots instead.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ook-keyhole-picture-hanger/1001026198?eid=PS_GOOGLE_D00%20-%20E-Comm_GGL_Shopping_PLA_EN_All%20Products_All%20Products__PRODUCT_GROUP_pla-300587868876&gclid=CjwKCAiAkrWdBhBkEiwAZ9cdcOhVvtR3WmsI-7DKlZkGDhhFWfB9twN08Vf_ga7RN5QymsEBN80NFxoCM3cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Make sure to predrill the screw holes when mounting these brackets to your self to prevent the wood splitting/cracking. After that hang it on the wall using two screws and plastic drywall anchors like recommend by others. Predrill the wall to screw in the plastic anchors as well.

Seconded. DO NOT PAINT OVER POPCORN CEILING OP.

Popcorn ceiling is not hard to remove. It's just messy and time consuming. Popcorn ceiling that has been painted over is a whole different story because the paint is now acting as a layer of glue over top.

Easier to remove does not mean easy to remove. Any paint will make it much harder to remove in the future.

First, I would also clean-up and repair the existing holes as much as I could. IF you are working with particle board the holes can make it quite weaker. So, sand them down, fill with wood dowels and wood glue, let it all dry and sand it (again) smooth. Also, consider replacing the 2x2(?) that you currently have with something like a 2x4. Then you could make a few extra screw holes and have more surface area for the construction adhesive.

That'll work much better than just having the piece against the fence for sure. And yes you do need to have the piece upside down, makes it so much easier to see where your mitres need to end up

It's not enclosed, it's a cubby without a door, so right now it's venting out into the room but the intake through the back of the cubbie is currently restricted to the size of the hole the wires pass through.

Good thing clamps are cheap. And you would probably be good with wood glue, but switching to construction adhesive would be extra strong. If it’s good enough to hold your floor together, it’s good enough for your bed.

I frankly don't want a sink unless it can double as a wading pool for a toddler.