Interesting project. I don't see mention of getting extension cords with the proper guage copper. You'll want to make sure you've got at least 14awg for your 15amp outlet to avoid a potential fire hazard.

Darn. Thought you started with the black strain reliefs and moved into the chrome. I just see you did a bunch. The two with the black strain reliefs are my personal favourites. Nice work.

I do not buy outlets on amazon.

When did you get this shower installed? It looks like the installation has failed, there's rust along the entire perimeter of the caulking bead at the bottom, the whole shower has failed. I would stop using it if I were you, there's probably a lot more water damage than what you're seeing. It's time to call the installer.

That pipe does not appear to be a very strong one (the wall thickness of a pipe tends to increase with its diameter, so narrower pipes are usually also thinner ones).

You can mount a shelf to it, but I'd recommend ONLY storing spices, or maybe a single small plant. Don't try to add a bunch of shelving and store pots and pans and half your kitchen on it.

There's a variety of pipe clamps out there, many of which can be used to hold something against a pipe. The exact design is up to you, the tools you have, and the types of pipe clamps you have access to.

A couple of these generic pipe clamps screwed into a block of wood can act as a decent base for a small shelf, which then gets screwed/glued to the block of wood. You gotta get the sizing of everything just right, though, to get enough clamping pressure.

"Split Ring" or "Split Clamp" pipe clamps are much stronger, but will take a bit more creativity to attach to wood.

Bad main breakers are surprisingly more common than you'd think especially when the panel was installed in the 70s and never touched. Odds are the main probably won't ever trip. I've had people not even know where the main panel was let alone the point you're supposed to test them regularly.

I seem some shady shit... lots of double taps (most I seen was quad tapped), I seen mains jumped out cause "it kept tripping"...

An entire house on 2 50A breakers. (This was the quad tapped)

Wires tied right to the bus without a breaker even present.

Load distribution in the house is totally dependent on how it's wired and the service available. There's still places where I live with 60A service panels being fed 200A. Almost no one does shit to code unless you're a service tech or trying to sell the place. Not to mention some of the code inspectors in the area are easily bribed.

Copper being stolen from utilities is like the most common thing in vacant houses here.

However usually the reason shit gets so bad is because the county code doesn't require ANY permits or inspections for work on the existing interior of the house, only exterior modifications like an addition and anything with a service upgrade. You can legit call the power company here tell them you need a meter pulled to replace the panel and they will come pull it, and when you call back they don't even ask if it was inspected half the time if you sound like you know what you're doing.

The black and gold one was the third one that I did. The blue cord closest to the middle with the stainless steel faceplate was the first one.

I will never go back to any other anchor. Well worth the price difference.

This is 90's construction so it should be asbestos-free.

If the sink is installed, I'd just drill through with a ½" diamond hole saw (~$10) and continue at the end with a standard metal bit. Be sure to keep it wet and take your time for the stone part.

[deleted]

Drilling a hole in the flange won't cause any structural issues in the sink, if that's what you're asking.

If it wasn't undermount, I'd recommend releasing the sink and popping the silicone, then putting a block between them to drill the first hole, but that's a much bigger deal to do with an undermount sink.

What you're suggesting is probably your best option, but understand that there's a good chance your diamond bit will be headed for the garbage as soon as it touches the steel.

If it's only a half inch hole, a hole saw may not be the best choice. I'd probably drill the steel stepping up to ½ with carbide drop points.

Those are primarily used by electricians to create a knockout in a breaker panel and it would only work if you removed the sink.

​

I'm a general contractor with 35 years of experience in construction.

From the direction of the holes you showed, I expect the previous owner (and probably the one who made it) screwed drywall screws diagonally in through the sides.

The low effort solution would be to reuse those holes and do the same thing.

No matter what hanging advice you take, please don't put anything heavy/breakable on it because the build quality of the shelf could be just as low effort as the previously mentioned hanging method

Apparently the shower curtain was not installed correctly to keep water from that area.

[removed]

Pull measurements from the adjacent panels to find the centerline of the can (x & y axis). Mark the centerline on the new panel, making sure you take into account the proper orientation of the panel once hung. Use a compass to draw your circular cut line. Make it slightly larger but still close enough to actual diameter that the scussion covers it. If you're matching existing 1/4" panel, I'd use a jigsaw with a fine blade to cut the hole. Hang panel. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Drywallers use a router. They'll hang the sheet, find the approximate location and do a plunge cut. Find the edge and follow it around.

If the sink is stainless steel, it will be difficult. Stainless is very hard to drill through with normal steel hole saws.

This isn't necessarily true. Quartz is typically cut with a diamond crusted abrasive hole saw, preferably a wet cut. Attempting to cut steel with the same bit will destroy the abrasive. You might make it through, but the (very expensive) bit will be ruined.

• Your question does not include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research didn't answer your question.

This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. It is not a judgement about your question being "too easy." We're looking for evidence that you've made an attempt yourself.

• Please do not use /r/DIY as your first stop for questions - we are not Google.

• Please search Google and /r/DIY to see if your question has been asked before. Check owners manuals, tech support forums or contact the manufacturer.

• Have you already done some basic research and are still stuck?

• Please include what research you have done in your question so that others do not repeat your steps.

• Consider posting your question in the sticky thread at the top of the subreddit.

• Ask your question in our Discord server in the appropriate channel.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

Amazon is hot garbage, people should stop excusing their atrocious quality and business practices on account of cheap prices.

Yeah fair enough. I just thought I'd (try to) offer an alternative way to look at the problem. Good luck to you. I'd love to see a follow up post on how you pull it off.

[deleted]

How much does your painting weigh? Hiring people or buying powertools seems like overkill, but maybe you live in the Hermitage and these are 50 lb behemoths.

Buy one of these, then bolt your laminated MDF sides, footboard, and headboard to it if you want the same look as what you have. Then throw away what's left of the old frame.