You are fine with your plans assuming you are going to leave the popcorn for the next several years. I've used both products you mentioned for the same applications. 2 coats and you'll be good.

This would be my guess as well. There's adjustment possible where the little wheels in the track meet up with the door sections, if it's dragging against the frame too tightly. You want a reasonably tight fit for low airflow, especially if you've paid more for insulated door, but if you're just "scraping' it along the garage framing either side it might be sensing the added friction in some temperature and humidity conditions (depends what your framing is) and that's what's making it stop and reverse vs. fighting it.

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The first picture is the rear flange right? Why not just use one of those pre-made covered holes?

I'm pretty sure cancer can end up costing a pretty penny.

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You should be able to cut a hole through the flange with the right hole saw as well no?

Can't confirm. Most of the stuff at Bauhaus or Hornbach is from Bosch, Siemens, ABB, Wago or Jung. The Chinese crap doesn't get the GS clearance required for sale in Germany. On top of that, the VDE has their own, even stricter testing procedures which guarantee a high degree of safety and quality.

> Seconded. DO NOT PAINT OVER POPCORN CEILING OP.

I must completely disagree. When I took possession of my home, the first tradesman in was the painter who sprayed all the ceilings with flat white enamel. Twenty four years later, they are still looking good.

The ceilings are sealed though. With a thin layer of paint as I have, I can tell by one area of inadvertent damage (oops) that a putty knife would take it off easily while dry as the paint offers a slight crust to give leverage.

EDIT: The paint was oil based.

Why not start drilling from the flange side, through the hole?

How far is the pipe from everything (the cabinet, the wall, the fridge)? Is the pipe plumb? It looks close to the wall at the bottom but quite far at the top. Also, what goes through the pipe? There is a gap between the fridge and the wall, do you do anything with it? Can we see a picture zoomed out so we can see the whole space?

Normally, I wouldn't put weight on a pipe (as in mounting things to it) simply because it wasn't designed for it. But building around it make sense. Its just a matter of where to mount what.

If your kitchen was remodeled in the past, there's a good chance that the disposal switch was on the wall. Those buttons in the sink are pressure activated but depend on an always-live outlet under the sink. So if there is a nearby electrical box on the backsplash it probably has the power feed for the disposal that has been wire-nutted together to remove the switch, and you could put the switch back there.

My garage door started doing this more over time. One day I noticed the where the arm attached to the door it was actually pulling free of the door. The sheet metal is thin and the screws aren't holding on to much. So the door was essentially over extending at the bottom of its stroke and forcing itself against the floor leading to the arm problem. Adjusted the travel as per it's instructions then fixed the attachment point. No issues since.

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Guarantee you the shit at Home Depot or Lowes is just as crap as the stuff at Amazon, unfortunately.

Mine is vented out the side of the house with an insulated flexible pipe and it still drips in the bathroom sometimes when it’s cool outside and I take a hot shower.

You're on the right track to use a diamond core bit for the stone. I don't know if you're planning to use a standard drill motor or if you're planning to use an angle grinder, but you're much better off using an angle grinder. The core bits will be longer and the grinder will give you more control versus a drill motor. I would also recommend to oversize your hole by a little bit and I'd drill a 5/8" hole instead.

For the sink mounting flange you'll almost certinly completely burn a bi-metal hole saw while attempting to drill through the stainless steel. You'd really want to use a carbide tipped hole saw to go through the stainless steel if you expect to use the hole saw more than once.

There should be an adjustment you can make on the motor assembly to increase the closing force. The resistance just seems to sometimes overcome that setting and reverse the door. If you increase that closing force a bit it should resolve the problem.

It should be a small screw or knob that can be turned to increase/decrease the closing force.

Pull the disconnect for the closer, and try opening and closing the door manually. Does it open and close smoothly at all points, and do the springs seem to be properly supporting the door? If not, it could be that the door is feeling some resistance, when trying to close (note that this can be affected by temperature extremes). In addition, you can try closing the door (with the door closer) from the inside, and watching both the door and the sensors carefully, to see if they change or have some problem during the closing process.

Only expensive if a removal company does it

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I’m looking at a condo in a building from 1976. The entire place has popcorn ceilings. Should I assume the worst?

Thx for the response! For the base wood block, is that something I’d be able to buy off the shelf at a Home Depot?

If you can stand the look, using machine screws that go all the way through the rail would be a solid addition. With a counter sunk flat head on the exposed side and a nut and washer on the inside it would then almost not need clamps.

Usually my first approach to failures like this is threaded inserts (example), but since you mentioned it being MDF I'd go with connector/cap/dowel/etc. nuts (example). In either case I pair them with furniture bolts (example) slightly shorter than the combined thickness of the wood pieces.

The flat, flared heads on the nut and screw provide clamping over a larger area than adding washers to standard fasteners, making a more stable joint even through damaged wood. The low, rounded head profiles also greatly reduce the possibility of their catching on anything such as bedding or body parts.

Here in the US I'd usually find them at most local hardware stores, or always at one of the big box stores. For thicker joints I've used a pair of nuts coupling a section of threaded rod.

I've a nice, old desk chair that unfortunately the wood frame has degraded that's been held together quite solidly for years with this type of repair.