Openers typically have a sensitivity control which allows you to adjust the closing force trigger point.

I've never seen a stone/concrete hole saw with a centering bit.

Is that a thing?

Also, plunge router for stone/concrete is sus.

Pliers, insert opened into the inner lip. Pull pliers open so the jaws expand outward applying pressure on the inside of the lightbulb cap. Keep applying pressure and rotate the lightbulb cap out.

Well, good on you for actually providing the ref. It's actually 400.10 now as of 2023 but the wording is basically the same.

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Hole saw to get through the countertop then a step drill to get through the sink.

test it, why assume.

Interesting. What about building a custom pantry/cabinet from next to the fridge, all the way to the back wall, front out flush with the wall cabinet, the side bottom out to that white box thingy, height to the top of the wall cabinet? The pipe would be within it and you gain some pantry space? Add a countertop to the same level to extend the current countertop.

That way the pipe won't have to support anything.

Flip the breaker.

Get a electric tester to make sure there is no current.

Grab it with pliers and twist out.

My grandfather used potatoes.

He got electrocuted a lot.

Second this way. I use it regularly doing apartment maintenance.

It’s what I’m most worried about, we have to replace all the windows from our 50s era house. So it’s getting switched anyhow, but he’s envisioning the tub on the north wall with the window. It currently has the obscuring glass in the bottom, but I don’t like it very much. I haven’t seen much on how definitely water proof the film is. Which is what worries me the most if I go down this route. It sounds like it worked well for you though, thank you!

Yes. And in cases of uncertainty, it is best to assume that there is asbestos. And in cases of asbestos, it is better to leave in place if the condition is good.

this is why I sealed over top of my asbestos popcorn with several layers of oil primer, and painted once cured. It was in good non-crumbling condition.

Fair enough, I defer to you. Oddly though, electricians I know (small residential contractor here) have told me the exact opposite--they often use stranded in conduit because it's easier to pull. Either way, as I'm sure you know, stranded is acceptable to use on receptacles in most cases. OP used the backwire terminal clamps, which is OK for stranded.

My uncle was a plumber and installed probably thousands of garbage disposals in his lifetime. He said he always recommended to customers that they install the switch under the cabinet to make it next to impossible to turn on the disposal with your hand in the sink.

It sounds trivial, but when he first started out in the business that wisdom was passed down by his boss who saw the aftermath of a woman who had her hand down the drain trying to pull something out and absentmindedly started the disposal.

As an electrician I’ve never pulled out my square or any measuring tape to strip back insulation. Just strip it, you don’t need to measure it.

True but cancer from one time exposure is highly unlikely and with proper ppe & mitigation safeguards, which both are easily obtained and used in a home remodel cancer risk is zero

I mean, you should be able to see with your eyes if the caulking has cracked or pulled away from the wall. And unless you use brown soap, or have never ever cleaned your shower, I'm gonna bet that what I'm seeing in the photo is more rust.

See if you can pull the caulking out of the corners. If it is rust, then the caulking will already be fully detached, and should come out fairly easily. If this is the case, then you need to remove all the caulking from the entire shower, let everything dry for a day or two, fully scrub and clean and de-grease the edges, and the re-caulk the entire thing properly, with a 100% silicone Bathroom-rated caulking.

I had this happen to me just a couple of months ago. I finally found my issue to be cobwebs on the sensor after struggling with it for over 2 weeks. It’s worth a check.

Okay, specifics time, I work as a paint specialist

ProMar 400 is a dead flat, so it's great for ceilings.

Less sheen means imperfections show leas, and since ceilings get hit by light at all sorts of angles, something like that is good.

You might come across "ceiling flat" at some point. It's the same as dead flat

"Premium" paints will have a slight side sheen, even when they say "flat"

Higher grade paints will say "matte" instead of flat, it's basically all the same, just the higher the grade of paint, the higher the sheen, usually. Higher grade satin will have a slight sheen difference to a lower grade satin. Always touch up with the same exact product if possible.

Emerald is expensive stuff, it's not bad but really expensive.

If it's for a flip, stick with "pro grade" products

If it's for a client's home, I usually recommend anything "premium" or above, aka, "paint and primer"

For the record, paint + primer does NOT mean you can skip priming, as others are saying, you can remove the popcorn ceiling, but I would definitely get some decent primer before painting over the removed ceiling. Also pretty much anywhere you put new spackle, new texture, new drywall, etc. Basically, if it's been painted before, primer can help if you don't want to sand the gloss off. If it's a new surface, priming is a good first step. This applies to wood, masonry, drywall, and metal when wanting to apply paints. Some paints, like DTM, won't need a primer, but it never hurts. Any water stains, sharpie markers, or graffiti, you want to use an oil based primer to keep it from bleeding through to the top coat. If you ever paint redwood, or cedar, use a good quality stain blocking primer to keep the oils in the wood from seeping through to your paint coat.

Primer will help seal the surface, and help the paint stick better, and it's cheaper to do a coat of primer, than a coat of sacrificial paint. Primer also typically dries quicker.

95% of residential architectural coatings are going to be acrylic these days, at least in places on the west coast.

Acrylic/latex paint = water based paint = soap and water cleanup

Mineral spirits cleanup = oil based paint

Installing a window is probably best.

However, to patch it is going to need some work. I do not see any outside photos. My biggest concern is the opening to the elements. Install stucco or sidding on the outside. Install insulation in the wall. Foam board or fiberglass insulation. Sheetrock, tape, texture, prime, and paint the inside.

Edit: Make sure to take out the wood molding in the pic. When installing the sheetrock, make sure it is flush with the rest of the wall so it will look smooth when finished as if it was never patched.

Not to mention extension cords aren’t meant to be a permanent source of power.

>The majority of wire run through conduit (think commercial electrical applications) is all stranded, not solid.

As a commercial electrician I can promise you this absolutely isn’t true. 99% of the time it is solid. Far easier to terminate solid in a panel then stranded. The only time stranded is really used is when you have to because the wire size is 8awg or larger and it’s only stranded at that point.

Melting plastic creates noxious and toxic fumes. Not recommended.

It was by the toilet and the tub/shower was across from that. It never received direct water but it did get a lot of moisture.