Yes. Some core bits have a center bit. We have diamond coated router bits that we use with a large water feed to keep the bits cool.

The problem with coming up from the bottom is that you can blow the face out. If it's a marble or granite type surface it wouldn't be able to handle the heat and have fun trying to use water to keep the bit cool while working underneath the sink.

Get something like this. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-A21Z-Angle-Z-Max/1114951 Lower profile if you can. Screw to wall, put short screws into shelf. If shelf doesn't span 3 studs put on on 2 or 3 shelves in center .

Stone guy here. I mount sinks for a living. The pre drilled holes in the flange re 4" on center. If you found center of your sink to the right and left you should have 2 holes 4" apart from each other. There should be five holes in the sink all together all 1.375 - 1.5 inches in diameter. Drilling through the stainless can be done but it's not optimal. If you overheat the bit the steel will bruise and turn blue. You can drill a larger hole depending on the size of the escutcheon plate. What kind of material are you drilling?

Check all the outlets you removed to see if any had the tab broken. If they did, you need to break the tab on the new one

Odds are one of them was a switched outlet and you’re now connecting together the two different sides of your box

Well you'd need a hammer drill for a center bit in stone/concrete. Just spinny would grind off the tip and you'd never sink in.

I could imagine some sort of complicated dual clutched system where the hole saw rides on a hammer drilling center bit, but that'd be a very specialized drill.

The suggestion was two magnets, one on either side.

(also there are different types of SS, and some of those types are ferromagnetic).

No, they don't give us pilot bits in our hole saws. They would just snap off.

>I suppose I could move the garbage disposal button to under the cabinet but honestly I'd rather keep it where it is and drill a new hole.

I know someone else replied this, but it's safer for that switch to live below the cabinet. Mine's easy to get to, you gotta open the door, and it's a standard room style switch.

An easy way to find studs without a stud finder is take a flashlight, turn off the lights and shine the light up the wall. Hold the flashlight against the wall. The screws and mud work should be very noticeable.

It's SS, a magnet won't stick to it.

Side note: your studs should be 16” apart on center, so you should see approximately 15” between each stud marking location if your house was built within the modern era. If you consistently get that measurement, you should be okay.

Recently bought a wireless button for my garbage disposal. Best thing I ever did. Might be an option for you. Then you won't have to drill.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQQ1DDG/

Ok I read that way wrong while scrolling past

Sometimes I will use two different stud finders to make absolutely sure I’m not drilling into anything I should not.

The stud finder I have is one that also shows electrical wiring, pipes for stack vents, bracing studs, etc.

Your wall could also be plaster and lathe, and that stuff can be a major pain in the ass.

Worst case, get another stud finder to confirm locations, and use a very small drill bit to check for wood under drywall.

There should be a template with it. If you installed the sink recently you might still have it or online.

I'm pretty glad you posted this. It meant the amount of time I thought "yeah, i should move the switch to above the counter!!" lasted only about 20 seconds.

Yeah, I would use finishing nails and two of those little hanger things. then you can use finishing nails on the wall also. I wouldn't be overly worried personally. I hate drilling into dry wall.... I also have plaster walls in my ancient house so less is always better to me.

If the grease pen doesn't work you can tape sharpies to the fixture. If you use three different colors you can see where the can would "like" to be.

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What about attaching a strong magnet on either side of where you want the hole to locate where to start drilling on top?

For much the same reason, we put in a momentary contact switch on the wall.

It's close enough that you can reach it while standing at the sink, but far enough that there's little to no chance of bumping it on accident and it would be awkward to reach the switch with one hand while your other hand is in the sink.

To make it easier to distinguish, it's also a different color than the rest of the switches in the kitchen (grey instead of white).

Canada, yup