This. There are a couple screws up on the motor unit that sense how much resistance there is against the door closing. Too much resistance and it changes direction. Try adjusting that.

im actually building one right now... 4x7, 8 flip up casters, 8 legs, legs are laminated 2x4s with half laps for the horizontal framing... glued to the horizontal 2x4s with a couple of #8 2-1/2" construction screws for insurance... gonna do a flip up miter saw and have tablesaw mounted to it with the top being outfeed for tablesaw.

I’m not exactly following without diagrams but you can purchase a motion sensor and wire it into any light or set of lights. With the right planning and access you could place a motion sensor somewhere and have the lights elsewhere, providing they are still wired together.

If you want it to be really strong, I would use 4x4 posts and "let in" (notch out) each post in the long direction of the table top to use with 2x6 for your top frame. So the 2x6 will sit in a notch in the post and be flush all around the outside. Shorter length on each end you could use structural brackets or beefy screws to attach, but in reality it isn't going anywhere. Once in place, you could carriage bolt them, or use timberlock structural screws or even some number 12 or number 14's. This way the load isn't being carried by the fasteners.

Hope this makes sense.

Right! Plus the mats would be great for working out and could easily be removed for resale.

My garage door does this from time to time. What works for me is holding the open/close button down until the door is closed all the way, it's like it re-learns or something.

The wires should be in the wall. It is more expensive, but you will be saving yourself a huge headache by just running a new line

Sure, Something like these. Look at plinth blocks for the door, and/or using bigger trim with plinth blocks. For where the floor meets the wall thicker baseboard trim with shoe molding or quarter round. https://i.imgur.com/KC8uny1.jpg https://i.imgur.com/JW4bxV3.jpg https://i.imgur.com/US4KJ0B.jpg

Test the ceiling for asbestos if the house was built before 1980.

I use a pump-action sprayer tank to soak the popcorn before scraping it off.

You should probably apply knockdown joint compound texture to the ceiling, because under that popcorn you will find uneven joints--that's why popcorn was so popular with builders. If it's really bad, you may need to tape and smooth out the joints before applying texture.

As the saying goes... Cheap, Easy, Good. You can have 2, pick 2.

Can't really tell how the legs attach to the desk. Is there a way you could get a piece of plywood, actual plywood not particle board or OSB, and sandwich it on the other side of the particle boars screwing through plywood, through particle board, and into the center of the leg? This plus adhesive on all contact points may be sufficient. Obviously you would want to paint any exposed wood.

The issue is I believe the box is neither the beginning of the circuit or end. I don't know the outlet path throughout the floor. I know for sure two lamps (only LED bulbs) are on it because they dim for a brief second when the PC is turned on.

Popcorn ceilings are very commonly asbestos containing and is considered high risk in my locale. It's very easy to become airborne when disturbed, and will stay airborne for days. If you are going to remove it, please educate yourself on local removal and disposal procedures.

With that being said, no city landfill is going to be checking what's inside your garbage bags, but please protect yourself and others as much as possible.

I am an Asbestos certified demolition tech.

Pouring a new slab would be the best solution, of course. That said, do you have the height to frame a wood floor platform on top of the asphalt? Asphalt is pretty soft and doesn't like to stay put, so trying a levelling compound would be disappointing, I think. A wooden platform would offer something rigid while also allowing a space for insulation so you don't have to have a cold floor.

I would definitely go this route or a garage interlocking floor over self leveler. Self leveler is a compound that's not meant to be a finished floor, and is definitely not meant to go over a material that can shift like asphalt.

Sometimes a dirty lens will cause the light to have this effect like the sun blinding the lens.

Wilco, thnx mate

Deck screws lack the strength you need. Use galvanized bolts or screws.

I can say that I’d definitely use it even so if it felt sturdy. Keep an eye on it though

T.T

Dry lubricant works miracles

I am not qualified to answer that unfortunately :(

There's a bit of gold in the comment above.

anawhite.com is a goldmine.

Oh nice. I've never heard of those before but I'll look for them. Thanks!

I don’t know what your budget is but if you want it to be a workout space check out stall mats. They are just rubber mats like you’d have in a gym, usually in 4x6 foot pieces. They could just be laid over the asphalt floor and could be cut to size pretty easily. Local farm supply stores would likely have them if you are in the US.

Update: Drill bit broke inside one of the screw holes while pre-drilling after advice. Can it hold 55 lb with only 3 of 4 screws (middle screw not used...)?