Recent comments in /f/DIY

OkMaintenance7832 t1_j27eb5b wrote

If you decide to remove the popcorn at any point, something to be aware of / consider:

Our friends who live in the home behind us removed theirs when they moved in, using the wet and scraping method others here mentioned. The unexpected issue they ran into, was once the popcorn texture was removed, they realized how bad the drywall seams and tape jobs were, and then had to deal with fixing that. I guess the builders did a subpar job taping and smoothing the seams knowing the popcorn would hide it anyway.

They also said the process was MISERABLE. The husband is a contractor and no stranger to that kind of work or laborious projects but said he’d never do it again. It’s the main reason we’ve decided to not mess with trying to remove the popcorn on our ceiling, lol. That might be uncommon, I don’t know, but we decided we didn’t want to take on that project, which sounds unpleasant already, and then find out we have same issue and a second project.

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fairmont423 t1_j27dyxi wrote

My first workbench (built when I was 14) had legs made from two 2x4s laminated with standard wood glue, a simple 2x4 frame, and a 1/2” oak ply top (which I have replaced one time). I’ve moved it through three shops over the last 17 years and it is still serving me well despite an unfair amount of abuse. The fasteners were deck screws.

The last bench I built had real 4x4s (nominal) with 2 sheets of 1/2” oak ply as a top. I built it with a combination of lag bolts, deck screws, and more than one tube of PL Premium construction adhesive. I’m fairly sure I could drop a truck on it.

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Ambitious-Poem1190 t1_j27dqvu wrote

The screws on some of the knuckles which held the panels together started backing off which caused binding when those sections rounded the corner at the top.

Inspect the door and all the screws, make sure they’re all tight and dry-lubricate the track/wheels. If it’s not that, then start pondering springs, motor or sensors.

Good luck!

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Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j27cwbk wrote

I think the lesson to ne learned here is to NEVER buy another tool at Walmart that is a Walmart brand, or at all.

Ryobi is great for the money, and you can get bits and things from them, Dewalt, Milwaukee, or makita easily. Bit more money, but you wouldn't have any of the issues you did today.

Also, get an impact driver. They have more torque, don't strip out screws, and are all around better at screw related tasks than drills. Drills are best for drilling holes, but if you're really tight on money CAN be used for screws. They just need a lot more care to work with.

Edit: solution to your problem: get a ryobi drill, a good bit the size you need, and a pack of screws (preferably 2.5" Spax or GRK). Move the mounting point up or down 4" from where you wanted it, and redo it. Patch the place this disaster happened with drywall mud (can get some nice drywall patch from 3M. Fast drying, and is color coded so you know that it is dried.)

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RudeMutant t1_j27cmb9 wrote

Replacing a box is a lot harder than adding one. You run the risk of breaking wires because copper doesn't like to be bent a lot. Run a new line to code (drill and staple every stud) and add another box where it would be close to where you want it. If you put the box on the next stud over it should look better than right on top of the old one

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Felaguin OP t1_j27c2o5 wrote

I did that first but none of the results fit this scenario. I'm not trying to put a 2-wire sensor on a 3-wire outlet/fixture -- that's what's in place now. However, capping the red wire in the outlet/fixture has disabled the path lights and gate light and I'm trying to re-enable them, as well as seeing if I can set the path lights up to come on when someone comes out of the gate to head back to the driveway.

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WhyYouYellinAtMeMate t1_j27boey wrote

Buy a knockout punch. They sell wrench operated kits (checkout Greenlee https://www.greenlee.com/us/en/1-2-conduit-size-standard-round-manual-knockout-set-k3bb-1-2). That is the best way to make a clean hole. Use a center punch to mark the center of your hole, then pre drill the appropriate size pilot hole for the draw stud (draw stud is part of the knockout punch), then use the knockout punch per manufacturer.

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smacky623 t1_j279b0x wrote

My guess is the "red wire" on the new fixture is internal. The black and white go inside to the wiring for the sensor and the sensor goes right to the light internally. There is a chance if you took ot apart you might be able to rig it but maybe not.

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