Recent comments in /f/DIY
rocksblantonssplz t1_j27eym9 wrote
Reply to comment by rocksblantonssplz in Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
I did a separate desk for wife using these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7GC87F/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_PYzZdjZk2KzVx
rocksblantonssplz t1_j27epsl wrote
Reply to Building a Computer Desk by NeuroticTruth
I did a similar project using butcher boock slab and bought a standing desk frame; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTVF1M5/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_AS1aOvIV3PPY4
huongdaoroma OP t1_j27ekmo wrote
Reply to comment by Academic_Nectarine94 in Weak drill > Non-flush screws > Load?? by huongdaoroma
Thanks! Exactly what I needed
lumberjake1 t1_j27eboz wrote
I like it when the video is broken up at the bottom so I can skip to certain parts easy. I almost always skip the intro. Voice over is nice. Fast tempo for sure.
OkMaintenance7832 t1_j27eb5b wrote
Reply to New painter questions about old paint on walls, unpainted popcorn ceilings and primer! by thatoneguyovertheres
If you decide to remove the popcorn at any point, something to be aware of / consider:
Our friends who live in the home behind us removed theirs when they moved in, using the wet and scraping method others here mentioned. The unexpected issue they ran into, was once the popcorn texture was removed, they realized how bad the drywall seams and tape jobs were, and then had to deal with fixing that. I guess the builders did a subpar job taping and smoothing the seams knowing the popcorn would hide it anyway.
They also said the process was MISERABLE. The husband is a contractor and no stranger to that kind of work or laborious projects but said he’d never do it again. It’s the main reason we’ve decided to not mess with trying to remove the popcorn on our ceiling, lol. That might be uncommon, I don’t know, but we decided we didn’t want to take on that project, which sounds unpleasant already, and then find out we have same issue and a second project.
fairmont423 t1_j27dyxi wrote
My first workbench (built when I was 14) had legs made from two 2x4s laminated with standard wood glue, a simple 2x4 frame, and a 1/2” oak ply top (which I have replaced one time). I’ve moved it through three shops over the last 17 years and it is still serving me well despite an unfair amount of abuse. The fasteners were deck screws.
The last bench I built had real 4x4s (nominal) with 2 sheets of 1/2” oak ply as a top. I built it with a combination of lag bolts, deck screws, and more than one tube of PL Premium construction adhesive. I’m fairly sure I could drop a truck on it.
Ambitious-Poem1190 t1_j27dqvu wrote
The screws on some of the knuckles which held the panels together started backing off which caused binding when those sections rounded the corner at the top.
Inspect the door and all the screws, make sure they’re all tight and dry-lubricate the track/wheels. If it’s not that, then start pondering springs, motor or sensors.
Good luck!
drainisbamaged t1_j27da85 wrote
Floor leveler is going to crack a lot as the asphalt shifts over time. It may work, depends on how particular you are.
italy4242 t1_j27d7mm wrote
Reply to Base of porch column gaps/cracks by m_n_d_12
Just slap some west on it
Academic_Nectarine94 t1_j27cwbk wrote
I think the lesson to ne learned here is to NEVER buy another tool at Walmart that is a Walmart brand, or at all.
Ryobi is great for the money, and you can get bits and things from them, Dewalt, Milwaukee, or makita easily. Bit more money, but you wouldn't have any of the issues you did today.
Also, get an impact driver. They have more torque, don't strip out screws, and are all around better at screw related tasks than drills. Drills are best for drilling holes, but if you're really tight on money CAN be used for screws. They just need a lot more care to work with.
Edit: solution to your problem: get a ryobi drill, a good bit the size you need, and a pack of screws (preferably 2.5" Spax or GRK). Move the mounting point up or down 4" from where you wanted it, and redo it. Patch the place this disaster happened with drywall mud (can get some nice drywall patch from 3M. Fast drying, and is color coded so you know that it is dried.)
hostile_washbowl t1_j27cv79 wrote
You doing woodworking or small engine repair? 4x4 posts of hardwood all around with carriage bolts for small engines. Be ready to shim. Or if just woodworking go with the pretty and cheap options mentioned
RudeMutant t1_j27cmb9 wrote
Reply to comment by SyCoREAPER in Moving existing wires out of junction box by SyCoREAPER
Replacing a box is a lot harder than adding one. You run the risk of breaking wires because copper doesn't like to be bent a lot. Run a new line to code (drill and staple every stud) and add another box where it would be close to where you want it. If you put the box on the next stud over it should look better than right on top of the old one
Felaguin OP t1_j27cawd wrote
Reply to comment by dsmaxwell in 2-wire motion sensor/light on a 3-wire fixture by Felaguin
Had to open Reddit in browser on laptop since the iOS app didn't let me attach pictures but I edited the main post to put a diagram in.
Felaguin OP t1_j27c2o5 wrote
Reply to comment by milehighideas in 2-wire motion sensor/light on a 3-wire fixture by Felaguin
I did that first but none of the results fit this scenario. I'm not trying to put a 2-wire sensor on a 3-wire outlet/fixture -- that's what's in place now. However, capping the red wire in the outlet/fixture has disabled the path lights and gate light and I'm trying to re-enable them, as well as seeing if I can set the path lights up to come on when someone comes out of the gate to head back to the driveway.
xt1nct t1_j27c0cm wrote
I had this issue. My chain was loose. Check if your door moves freely if it does check if you have slack in your chain.
[deleted] OP t1_j27bopd wrote
WhyYouYellinAtMeMate t1_j27boey wrote
Reply to Help drilling a hole through kitchen countertop & flange of undermount sink for a water filter by [deleted]
Buy a knockout punch. They sell wrench operated kits (checkout Greenlee https://www.greenlee.com/us/en/1-2-conduit-size-standard-round-manual-knockout-set-k3bb-1-2). That is the best way to make a clean hole. Use a center punch to mark the center of your hole, then pre drill the appropriate size pilot hole for the draw stud (draw stud is part of the knockout punch), then use the knockout punch per manufacturer.
Waltzing_With_Bears t1_j279ydm wrote
Theres a good Stumpy Nubs video about making a woodworming bench, Id take a look at that for some ideas
SyCoREAPER OP t1_j279ycb wrote
Reply to comment by RudeMutant in Moving existing wires out of junction box by SyCoREAPER
That was definitely my intention, leave what's there in place and run a new line but wasn't sure what code wise was needed. In another post someone said use a Dual gang which would be more visually appealing than a second outlet and capping the original.
milehighideas t1_j279oui wrote
Google 3-wire light sensor diagram, then google 2-wire light sensor diagram. See what each goes to and figure it out yourself. Would have been faster than this essay you wrote.
smacky623 t1_j279b0x wrote
My guess is the "red wire" on the new fixture is internal. The black and white go inside to the wiring for the sensor and the sensor goes right to the light internally. There is a chance if you took ot apart you might be able to rig it but maybe not.
Warsaw14 t1_j278qba wrote
Get a dewalt impact driver and drill combo
lisalys t1_j278fua wrote
Reply to comment by falderol in New painter questions about old paint on walls, unpainted popcorn ceilings and primer! by thatoneguyovertheres
When I ever inherit, I will. But judging by the year, I’m pretty sure there’s asbestos everywhere.
get-r-done-idaho t1_j2789ie wrote
Mortise your joints and glue and screw them. If you do this correctly it will be rock solid.
crspycantlop t1_j27eyoh wrote
Reply to comment by thunderstricken in New painter questions about old paint on walls, unpainted popcorn ceilings and primer! by thatoneguyovertheres
Can only do thin coats if it’s not already falling off