As mentioned before, you need to do more investigation with a multimeter. The red wire (14/3) might go to a junction box and then power the other lights. Test for voltage and test for continuity. Watch YouTube videos on both topics.

Test continuity with a long wire. There are other ways, but for the purpose of brevity, here is one way to do it. https://youtu.be/YLA5u8BJrwg

That “diagram” you drew doesn’t add much context without knowing what wires go where. Maybe post a picture of the original and new motion sensors with enough detail to identify the sensors, the wires and any information on the units, along with what wires are present and where they connected on the original.

Used these and they're strong af

No, probably not. Is it visible at all? Like protruding from the wall at all? If so, take the broken piece out of the drill and try and retighten the drill on the broken bit in the wall and slowly unscrew.

If you can’t get it out, you’ll need to dig into the drywall to get a better bite on it, or move the mount to a new spot and try again.

When you drill try and make sure you’re holding the drill perpendicular to the wall. Don’t apply pressure from the sides, only straight down.

You can buy L shaped splash guards at Lowe's or Home Depot. They attach with peel and stick tape, then you caulk around the edges to prevent leaks and stuff. They seem to help with escaping water, and help keep your curtains inside the shower.

Yup. My current work bench is 2x4s and a free solid core door (trimmed down) screwed together with 2 1/2” galvanized screws. It’s 14 years old now and just as solid as day one. In matter of fact, this is the 3rd home for the door as a work bench. Prior to this location it was at the last as a work bench for 8 years, I flipped it over for its new location.

Get a multimeter before connecting any wires together.

3 screws should easily hold your bike. A single one probably could tbh if you don’t reef on it

Not sure you can remedy this other than trying to be entertaining because I can't recall many diy vid I sit through without skipping around. Even project farm videos I skip to end to see which products performed the best and actually feel guilty doing it.

I watch This Old House on topics I'm not even interested in because it's so poorly scripted when there are interactions; I get a laugh. Home Renovision is another channel I might watch an entire video because he sometimes throws in unrelated tips that are useful for a variety of applications. He has charisma.

Is actually is true, your statement falls apart quickly if you read the building codes or look at any Wago history. California, Washington, and Florida more explicitly do since you asked for 1 state, here's 3. The first UL certified Wago was a low voltage model in 2003 so your claim of "decades" is false, technically, but was also used explicitly to spread false information that is illegal and harmful to others which violates the Reddit terms and conditions.

It is really difficult to determine what is going on without using a voltage meter or photos. You really need to do further investigation before connecting any wires.

You need a multimeter before proceeding! You can get an inexpensive meter for less then $20.00.

Check for power between the black and white (should be 110 volts).

Check for power between red and white (no power or 110 volts??) If there is no power, there is a good chance that the wire is charged by the activation of the sensor. If the red is 110 volts then further investigation will need to be done. You will need to find out where the wire originated.

Check for power between the black and red. If it is 220 volts, then there is a separate breaker for the red wire. Just CAP the red wire until you are able to determine what it is for. I highly doubt it will be on a separate circuit (220 volts) for exterior lighting. The wattage is low for lighting. There could also be 110 volts or no voltage between red and black. 110 volts would indicate that a light is already connected to the red wire. No voltage would indicate that both red and black have power and are on the same busbar on the electrical panel OR the red wire is disconnected. If there is no voltage between red and black, check again between red and white. If there is 110 volts, then red is on the same busbar as black. They most likely would be on the same circuit.

Open up the other lights to determine if the red wire connects to that box. Check for power in the other boxes.

You should educate yourself on basic wiring by watching some YouTube videos. Find some videos on troubleshooting wiring.

This is what I suspect: Black wire (line)- hot 110 volts. White wire - common. If there is no power between the red and the white, then there is a good chance that when motion activates the sensor that charges the red wire (load). That powers the other lights.

Provided the red is the load: To install another sensor further on the branch circuit, connect the red to the black together. In this situation, if you connect red and black together, you should have constant power for the other lights. Then you can install motion sensors in the other locations.

Por que no los dos?

Something like this is what I use when I want the strength of a lag bolt but the convenience of a deck screw.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/FastenMaster-0-x-2-7-8-in-Black-Ecoat-Flat-Head-Interior-Exterior-Structural-Wood-Screws-50-Count/3295058

I'll just get drywall mud and redo it again with a Ryobi driver/impact set. Any suggestions for drill bit brands?

There are faucets with the drinking water spout on the side so you don't have to drill.

I bought this a few years ago. Very pleased with it. Similar situation as you, had a big slab I wanted to make a desk out of. If has worked perfectly. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=31292

It is for sure a bad shower wall install. First, the shower walls are not wide enough - need to be as big as the shower base. Those shower walls are notorious for causing water problems - they are impossible to seal effectively. I'd pull off all the plastic shower walls, remove the drywall and replace with GoBoard or Hardibacker. You can put a drywall corner bead on after you repair that corner. Order your new shower kit (the correct size this time) and install per manufacturer instructions. Make sure you use a high quality silicone caulk at all corners and at the shower base.

I would not venture to take a guess.

However if I were motivated to use only 3 holes I would purchase longer screws in stainless steel. The stainless steel part is important. It approximately doubles the tensile strength.

So what I'm hearing is the workbench I want to build out of some solid wood closet doors needs to be thought out beyond buy some 4x4s and go at it

I was able to make the left, right, and bottom screws flush but the middle one one be there anymore. I'll get a ryobo drill + impact and more bits (any suggestion for the bits or would they be part of the set?)

In the meantime, the 3 screws would hold?

Just going to piggy back here cause I can’t reply to your original post for some reason.

The new fixture he bought doesn’t have an output for the sensor. You need a fixture with that output to get the rest of the lights to work again.

As for your other question. It depends. You’ll have to take the light off that you want to replace with a motion and check if it has the 3 wires in the box or not. If it does it will be white to white and fixture black to red with the black of the cables just passing through the box. If that’s what you see then you can add a motion there as well. If you only see the black and white then you can’t without some sort of wireless sensor that Im not sure exists.

Hope that helps.

The guy up there who said the other line was the hot for what’s not turned on is most likely right. Post a picture of the sensor you bought or put up a link, it’d help

Taking a look, and to asnwer the "Will It Hold 55 Lbs" Question.

You have 2 screws in that picture, i cannot see the one behind, that are not flush atleast.

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It Will Hold 55LBS, It Will Not Last Long tho. the constant moving will pull either the screws loose or more than likely break the heads off the screws.

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You'll be putting major force on the far right screw, when it breaks, the left screw will be next, then the upper screw will pull out.

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this is not a permanent solution by far, temporary at best, and honestly, just remove it, and re-do this properly 2" above the existing one. Best is to Pilot the holes first with a smaller drill bit (yes you broke one, don't wiggle the bit at all has to be straight in and straight out. any movement will break the pilot bit.

Then drill in the screws if you can, if not hand screw them in.

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Also your pilot should be as long as your screw at minimum.

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If you cannot do this, a handyman could prob do it in 15mins or so, check your local ad's see if you can find a cheap person to do it. Nothing would be worse than a bike falling onto someone/animal. Not that it'd be fatal or anything, but you'd still feel bad.

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also as a note, order of weight, Top screw takes most weight, then next two down, then bottom screw takes least weight in this instance.

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Fill low spots with sand then cover with stall mats or interlocking foam mats.

I hate produced intros. I like when people skip "boring" process. If you say "now I will cut this out with scissors", show the start and end and any tips for odd things along the way, but don't make me watch two minutes of cutting out a shape. I watch a lot of easy recipe videos that are 9 minutes and can be 3 or 4.