Sweet! The kids can steal the remote and turn on the disposal at any random time.

luckily that's the cabinet on the end. You can drill all the way through to the other side without affecting the finished look of the visible side.

I wouldn't use plastic inserts. Instead, pick up some FlipToggle drywall anchors.

https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/41f4485c-9b6e-4c89-b4c8-5ae86df9eb61/svn/fliptoggle-hollow-wall-anchors-425m-64_300.jpg

You'll have to drill out the existing hole much bigger than it was, but after inserting the anchor, the included bolt will hold sturdier than the original.

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Is it for sure wood that you're screwing into? When you drilled the hole, did wood chips come out? If the drill bit broke going into wood, you need to practice drilling into wood without bending or stressing the bit.

BTW, a drill bit is a device made for drilling holes, and a driver bit is a device meant for putting screws in. Some people will call a driver bit a drill bit, but that's incorrect and confusing.

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ADHD goes brrrr

Those look like some seriously short screws if I am looking at things correctly. Probably the simplest solution would be to try some plastic screw anchors. Also wouldn't hurt to hit youtube and see if anyone has some better ideas.

If you don't often use the drill, then it doesn't make sense to buy a premium drill to just get this one job done. You can instead invest in a cheap rachet set and use a hex bolt that you drive by hand.

I work construction. Stainless steel screws are terrible. They snap, bend, and the heads strip far more easily than normal steel. The only use for them is if you really need to avoid corrosion.

I like regular bolts, because you can always tighten them or replace them. The wood doesn't need to hold the fastener and doesn't wear out like it does when you use screws.

Check rollers…..garage tech advised to spray wd40 every 3 months or so……working so far.

A window would be relatively difficult, time-consuming, and expensive (it will need a custom size), not to mention that it will almost certainly look weird due to size and/ or location with respect to the floor and/or other windows.

That's exactly what I used in my basement gym room. You have to let them off gas outside for a while so your house doesn't smell like a tire shop. They handle dropped weights very well.

I like it if you tell me to smash that like button

Either, screws will be fine. Hardware doesn’t matter much but if you can half-lap joints then this will be plenty strong

Take measurements before you buy it, then cut it to size in the parking lot outside the store where you bought it. ... I have been known to take a T-square and a handsaw with me to Lowe's to cut timber or boards even though I own a pickup. Sometimes it is just that much easier to carrying material already cut into smaller pieces.

I heard to use a carrot. Never tried it.

If the loads work, sb ok. Check the strong tie hangers for 6x beam to 4x post.

Why did the drill bit break?

You should hire an engineer to help you with the beam/post design and with the plans for permits. In general, a 4x10 beam would be more efficient than a 6x6 beam, but the actual size will depend on the roofing material, roof slope, and whether it needs to be designed for snow load. Using a higher grade/species lumber would also be an option to reduce the beam size.

With a 4x beam, 4x4 posts should be adequate, unless they're pretty tall. If you go with a 6x beam, 4x6 or 6x6 posts would be used, to match the beam width.

The existing foundation might be undersized to support increased post loads, and this would be another thing that your engineer would help you verify

You could probably get away with it or find a metal platform of sorts to supplement the load bearing. If you’re playing around with that type of stuff be wary of building codes in your area as they made need approval of changes of anything more than 2’ off the ground etc. you could always go the tele-post route too and get some fancy cladding to hide it etc and could fix sag if there is any

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Welcome. Hopefully your walmart thing is still in its return policy, but even I'd it's not, you could ask a manager for a refund under warranty (do so nicely, catching flies with honey and all that.) Even a cheapo drill like that should be able to drive a screw into a stud.

https://old.reddit.com/r/askanelectrician/

Well now, you're bringing back flashbacks of my late teens....damn I had sexy lungs back then