Absolutely. As you accumulate wear, tear, and wood movement, carriage bolts will let you tighten and adjust to keep everything plumb, straight, level, and square.

Most local engineers will start their fees around $750 to $1,000. You might also need an architectural designer (drafter) to make field measurements prepare a site plan for permitting. Some designer will have their own engineers that they work with

What should I expect to pay for something like that?

Also check Rex Krueger.

Bro just buy gym-grade puzzle mats. That's what I used for my garage. Cost me $200 to cover the entire thing. As a bonus I stopped it 8 feet from the doors, added one square's worth of length (2 feet) instead of the end pieces that just fill the jigsaw to make it smooth, cut that final bit in half (1 foot) and then pulled it upward 90 degrees. Acts as a barrier at the end of the floor, interlocked with the rest; prevents shit from the lawnmower and snowblower from getting on the gym floor if the doors are open on a windy day.

I hear that. But the first link was wrong - felt it needed correction. Sadly that ana-white site only has naked shelving...as far as I saw anyway.

Not only have I never experienced "all stranded" in commercial wiring, I would refuse to work with an electrician who ever tried to pass that off.

That people (read: corner-cutting contractors) do it doesn't change the fact that it is not the intended purpose.

An outlet was not designed to be supplied by a stranded wire, especially stranded wire subject to constant flexing and strain. Full stop.

I like seeing the before and after upfront

I can feel the pain from dropping it on my foot through the screen.

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Definitely not correct. This will work but it's not up to code and in no way should be considered correct. You really should follow the code for new work, even if you're not getting a permit.

I'm an LA-based structural engineer. Since you're in SoCal, the patio cover also needs to meet the building code seismic safety requirements. You don't want it coming down during an earthquake. This is something that the building department will need review, approve, and inspect. You should hire an engineer for this type of work

Posts are ~7ft tall. The roof is just 2x4s about 2ins apart laid across 2x6 rafters spaced about 3ft apart . I’m in Southern California so no snow

LOL I think I'm way too gentle on that part

I built a work bench that is 8' long with 2x4s and 1/2" ply on top. It's just 12" on center 2x4 across the top (edit for clarity, the bench is 24" deep so there are 3x 2x4s for the top and bottom surfaces), same thing for a shelf on the bottom, with 2x4s for the legs cut flush with the bottom of the shelf, with caster wheels mounted to the bottom. It's incredibly sturdy and has had nearly 500lbs of stuff on it multiple times.

• 9x 2x4s
• 4x wheels (2x were locking)
• 1x 1/2" plywood sheet
• 60x 2.5" deck screws
• 16x 1.5" screws for the wheels

Took about 1.5 hours to build.

Unless you're looking to store bags of concrete on it, lags would be way overkill.

I would recommend a non-contact voltage tester as well as a good understanding of the limitations of these devices.

Telling someone who can't figure out the disconnected wire feeds the lights that are no longer power on to get a multi meter and start proving on live circuits doesn't seem like a great idea.

I just built a workbench using these cross-dowel bolts. They work great.

https://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-cross-dowel-and-bolt-8-pack

> anawhite.com

https://www.ana-white.com/

That's a quick & easy solution that can work fine for very light-duty workbenches used for crafts, electrical work, and power tools.

But not for hand tools. If the OP is planning to use hand tools the racking from that effort will loosen up deck screws very quickly.

Also, I've seen some ana white projects that didn't take into account seasonal wood expansion. So, I'd probably look for a quick & easy solution from fine woodworking or some other more reputable source.

As an electrician I can say u/Yummy-Beetle-Juice did you a solid and wrote out everything you need to do to solve your problem. If you can’t or don’t want to figure this out call an electrician they should have it sorted in about an hour.

Deck screws are perfect. Carriage bolts are overkill.

Here’s a popular basic workbench: https://www.eaa.org/eaa/aircraft-building/builderresources/while-youre-building/building-articles/tools-and-workshop/worktables

Looks like MDF/particle board. You can certainly try filling it back with wood glue and sawdust, or some type of wood epoxy. The problem is those screws will most likely strip out again. I recommend putting in threaded inserts with your adhesive of choice.

This is a pretty good video for your exact situation: https://youtu.be/QWNE3KN9Icw

If you think you can do it, go for it!!!

I got my house twenty years ago. I can still remember my first night here. I was mopping the garage floor at 1 AM because the water heater gave out six hours after I turned it on.

The last two decades have taught me plumbing, electrical, carpentry, roofing, tile work, irrigation, retaining walls, framing, pest control, and lying to myself that the results are acceptable.

I have also learned to work on cars because I can't afford a new car and I can't afford a mechanic.

I still think it is better than renting, and feel lucky that I have been able to hang on for so long.

If its particle board you are screwed